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I'm replacing the clutch in my IROC and am going with a Center Force.
Anyone have any opinion on the Center Force II vs their dual friction.
My car is street driven only with a bored, balanced and blue printed 350.
Stock gears, tires and T5 tranny.
A single friction clutch is going to be able to deal more abuse than the T5 itself can handle.
I have a dual friction... awesome clutch and takes all the abuse i give it ( drifting, racing, etc.) the tranny on the other hand is starting to not like to take 2nd gear.... lol
I don't abuse my car, no power shifting, etc. If I mash the go pedal..I shift using the clutch.
I'm more concerned with added performance, clutch longevity,etc.
Is the dual friction worth the extra $$.
I don't abuse my car, no power shifting, etc. If I mash the go pedal..I shift using the clutch.
I'm more concerned with added performance, clutch longevity,etc.
Is the dual friction worth the extra $$.
may seem like a dum question, but whats the differ between power shifts and whatnot?
nice thread as im on the same page as you, im looking to replace my clutch as the motor is getting pulled out, so im going to yank it out and replace it then. i think ill go with a dual friction though...
I don't abuse my car, no power shifting, etc. If I mash the go pedal..I shift using the clutch.
I'm more concerned with added performance, clutch longevity,etc.
Is the dual friction worth the extra $$.
i never could powershift... lol... then again my tranny is wore out...
DONT power shift with a T5. You will break the tranny so fast you have no idea!
As for what power shifting is...power shifting is when you're WOT and at redline when you go to shift to the next gear, you dont lift your foot off the gas.
I'm kinda leery of the weight gimmickry on the Centerforces too. Some people love them, others have had nothing but trouble with them. Along with Kevin's suggestion of McLeod, also look into the Ram Powergrip or Spec's Stage I or Stage II clutches. The standard duty Ram Powergrip should be more than adequate for your needs. The HD version is over $300, and it's probably more clutch than you actually need. Here's a link for the Ram clutch at Summit Racing. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku Btw, Zoom Performance also offers a multi-friction clutch that uses Kevlar on the flywheel side, and it's more affordable. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
No experiance with Centerforce, but I strongly recommend the Ram Powergrip HD. It has a super heavy duty pressure plate, a 8 puck metallic disc with a beefy hub and is rated for 700 hp. Make sure you get the Powergrip "HD".
(It's the "pretty" hot pink one!) I believe I paid around $325. I use it in my daily driver and occasionally race at the track. With a mild 350 and 250 hp on nitrous I guesstimate power at around 550 hp. The car dead hooks at my local strip and I have had zero clutch issues. There is a little chatter at times on the street but it's pretty easy to adjust driving habits to minimize it. Clutch feel is heavier than stock but fine for daily use IMO. I previously ran the Zoom multi friction with kevlar on one side and organic on the other and it lasted only 5 or 6 hard passes at the strip (without nitrous) and I don't recommend it.
And as far as the T5 goes, I haven't had any problems. I launch fairly hard but don't power shift it. Bear in mind that I'm using the nitrous off the line and only have a 3.27 rear gear. That's a lot of strain on the entire clutch/tranny/driveshaft system. (runs 7.98 @ 93 1/8 mi) I may be pushing my luck or just plain lucky cause a lot of people report having problems. Of course it'll probably blow the next time out!
Last edited by antman89iroc; 08-06-2008 at 12:19 PM.
tks antman. That looks like a little more clutch then I need on the street though.
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
tks antman. That looks like a little more clutch then I need on the street though.
Which was the big reason I was looking at the CF..more clamping pressure but not the change in clutch pedal pressure.
I do a lot of town and back road driving and shift a lot..I don't want to end up with a left leg like Arnies and a right leg like Mr Bean. lol
Got a good laugh on that visual!
Naw man it's not like that, my wife drives this car! Really, the clutch pedal isn't that much stiffer. But suit yourself. It does chatter sometimes which can be annoying. My experiance with the "middle of the road" stuff is that it isn't durable enough for my driving style and a trip to the track now and then. I would either go stock or Ram HD.
If you aren't looking for something that will hold up to abuse then the Zoom MF may be good for you. The pedal was super easy and it held up OK for the daily commute. It's not for racing or serious street though. As for Centerforce, some have great experiances, others not so great. I'll defer to those who've used it. However, I chose not to.
Opinions are like belly buttons, right? Everyone has one. Good luck. You really can't go wrong with most the top brands if you don't drive it like you stole it!
Thanks for the input. I don't race my car and considering I'm a Fed LEO..I don't street race either..
However I don't drive like a blue hair and my engine isn't stock so I want something that will stand up.
Considering your application, that's why I pointed you towards the standard duty, Ram Powergrip instead of the HD version. I'm running the standard duty Powergrip behind a pretty stout 350 in my 69 Camaro, and I've had zero problems with it. No chattering and pedal effort is moderate. Of course it has mechanical linkage. With the hydraulic linkage, it probably won't feel much different from a stock clutch. I actually do have to agree with Antman that either of the Ram clutches would probably be a better choice than the Zoom. Zoom is kinda on par with Mr. Gasket products as far as quality. Ram is definitely a better brand. I ran a Hays clutch years ago, which is made by Mr. Gasket, and it was a POS. The Ram has worked great in comparison. McLeod would sell a lot more clutches if they actually had more information available. Every time I look them up in Summit or Jegs, all you seem to be able to find listed is their mega-expensive Street Twin ($1000) and a bunch of odd, circle track applications. Whatever the case, I'd still recommend either Ram or Spec. Both are well known and widely used.
__________________ 89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
Considering your application, that's why I pointed you towards the standard duty, Ram Powergrip instead of the HD version.
Glad you chimed back in. I have a high opinion of the RAM products, but haven't used the one you recommended. I would probably try that one or even the "OE replacement" version before I'd go back to the Zoom.
And when I say serious street I'm not necessarily talking about illegal street racing. I'm just stating an opinion that a car set up for occasional track racing generally needs heavier duty parts than stock. My car is "serious" for a daily driven street car, to me anyway. When and if you get the urge to see what times it's capable of at the track, it's a real bummer babying it home cause the clutch couldn't take a half dozen blasts down the track when you finally get some traction!
Last edited by antman89iroc; 08-08-2008 at 08:01 AM.
I used the CF dual friction for over a year behind my turboed 350 & T5. It held up great (street car) and I have no complaints. It outlasted my first T5 and when I swapped in the T56, the clutch pp/disc were still able to be reused for the next guy.
And when I say serious street I'm not necessarily talking about illegal street racing. I'm just stating an opinion that a car set up for occasional track racing generally needs heavier duty parts than stock. My car is "serious" for a daily driven street car, to me anyway. When and if you get the urge to see what times it's capable of at the track, it's a real bummer babying it home cause the clutch couldn't take a half dozen blasts down the track when you finally get some traction!
i never could powershift... lol... then again my tranny is wore out...
all u need to do in a power shift is let off the gas and shift it...? do you do that? or do you try to shift while your on the gas? stupid question but haha just thought i would ask
all u need to do in a power shift is let off the gas and shift it...? do you do that? or do you try to shift while your on the gas? stupid question but haha just thought i would ask
yea... i let off the gas... i cant do it at speed.. only druising around if im lazy but the stock T5 in my car has seen a harder life than the pants of a rodeo clown...
i beat the hell outta that tranny and im suprised i havent split the case
A CF dual-friction was the first replacement clutch I ever put on my Camaro. I had no problems with it at all. I abused the snot out of that clutch with lots of hard down shifts to drop speed from 120mph down to around 40mph (with a stock T5..prolly why my T5 only lasted 80,000 miles). Only issue with the CF was getting used to the almost non-existent pedal pressure.
go with the regular clutch. DF's are gonna be harsh engagement and shake the car if you like to engage at less than 1500 rpm. Hands down REGULAR.
The end
All of our manual setups call for a 10.4 pressure plate and disk.
McLeod makes a better setup but they don't list it as a GM replacement.
It is made for Chrysler products, but it has a 10 1/2" bolt pattern but uses a 11" plate.
The disk is an 11" trimmed to 10.95 and uses special bolts (round head instead of hex) at the contact point, but still uses a hex 1/2"socket.
If you try to use any other bolts you are screwed.(bolts are furnished)
Now for the part #'s the disk is dual friction and is a 26 splined unit #260871
The pressure plate is #360710
I have been using this combo for many years, like some other dual friction units, if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter a little.
It is a great street and strip unit.
Why they don't list it for GM, I don't know.
HTH
this is good, i saw it in my summit catalog and im gonna order it. i see the part # for the pressure plate, $201. but not the 260871 DF disk.
i pulled it up online though on summit, and its another $200
so all in all im looking at 400, which isnt bad i suppose, is there another better deal somewhere else?? any mods? or direct fit?
and lastly, what do you mean by "if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter"
just wondering what that meant, i know it might sound dum but i dont know.
so all in all im looking at 400, which isnt bad i suppose, is there another better deal somewhere else?? any mods? or direct fit?
and lastly, what do you mean by "if you slide it, it will get sticky and chatter"
just wondering what that meant, i know it might sound dum but i dont know.
thanks guys.
It is a direct fit.
The best way to use a clutch is, get it all the way out as soon as possible.
If you slide or slip it, the friction will get it hot, then it gets sticky and chatters.
The best way to use a clutch is, get it all the way out as soon as possible.
If you slide or slip it, the friction will get it hot, then it gets sticky and chatters.
all the way out asap, you mean as in letting off the pedal and not holding it in? if so, i need to stop doing that so much
thanks again don ill look into this clutch and plate set up im about to pull the engine and replace the clutch