Tips/Tricks for Installing Axles, Bearings, Seals - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 02:59 PM

Use jack stands to support the car. Remove wheels/tires; allow the axle to hang in such a way that the sway bar doesn’t obstruct the removal of the diff cover.

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JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:04 PM

Remove calipers/carriers and rotors (with PBR’s, I simply removed the two carrier-to-backing plate bolts and lay the assembly aside).

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:07 PM

Remove the diff cover and drain the lube. With the car in neutral, rotate the differential until the pinion shaft is accessible. Note the pinion shaft bolt is above my index finger, the pinion shaft above my middle finger.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:10 PM

With the car in gear, remove the pinion shaft bolt. Use a 5/16 six-point box end wrench and dead blow hammer. A couple of moderate whacks should do the trick. If the pinion shaft doesn’t slide out, rotate the differential (neutral) until the top of the shaft can be accessed. I used a tack hammer to gently tap the shaft down a 1/2 inch or so. Rotate the diff again. The shaft should be exposed enough to allow insertion of the pinion shaft bolt. Use it to twist/wiggle the pinion shaft free.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:12 PM

Push the axle inward to remove the C clip. A magnet is helpful.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:14 PM

Remove the axle. (Don’t move the diff with the axle(s) removed.) Note the wear where the bearing rode.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:15 PM

A slide hammer will eliminate the old bearing and seal (the bearing in the pic is an axle saver or off-set bearing and doesn’t resemble the OE, which can be seen further below).

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:17 PM

Clean the axle tubes. A mop handle wrapped with a clean rag will work. Shoot down with brake clean. Check that portion of the axle tube which houses the bearing and seal for irregularities. Lube the bearing thoroughly with gear oil and insert it as far as the seal shoulder. A driver, slightly smaller than the axle tube, and a couple of moderate whacks with a BFH (I used a four-pound sledge) will drive it in.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:19 PM

Lube the rubber in the seal. Square the seal up in the tube. A driver, larger than the axle tube, to insure that the seal will be flush with the tube, and a whack with the BFH will do the trick.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:21 PM

Lube the axle completely. Guide the axle into the axle tube carefully so as not to snag, tear, or otherwise damage the seal. With the axle(s) inserted all the way, install the C clip and pull outward.

Lube the pinion shaft and reinstall. I used the tack hammer to gently drive it upward. Insert the bolt in the pinion shaft to align the holes (pic 4), then transfer the bolt to the retaining hole. Push the bolt with your finger while driving the pinion shaft gently upward. When the holes align, the bolt will pass through the pinion shaft. Put the car in gear and tighten the bolt snuggly (the manual calls for 27 pounds).

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 03:22 PM

Button up with RTV or a gasket. Refull with fluid, about two quarts, and GM’s limited slip additive (if your car is so equipped) p/n 1052358. Reinstall brake components, wheels, etc.

I used new Moser 26-spline axles and Timken bearings and seals.

By the way, I rented the slide hammer and bearing driver set from AutoZone.

Thanks to Sonix, jwscab, and sofakingdom. Other tips are welcome.

JamesC

Stevo · 09-16-2008, 04:57 PM

Great write-up it should be a sticky. I just did this 2 weeks ago using the same method and everything went smooth. I also rented a slide hammer from advanced auto.

big gear head · 09-16-2008, 10:00 PM

I'd like to add a few things.

First, not all axle seals are created equal. Some have a nice coating on them to prevent leaks around the outside, others don't. I always smear a light film of RTV or other sealant around the inside of the axle tube before driving the seal in. This prevents leaks from scratches in the axle tube. It is also a very good idea to check the spring that is inside the seal to be sure that it stayed in place when you drove it in. I've seen them pop out several times.

I always use blue Loktite on the threads of the cross shaft retaining bolt when I put it in. If this bolt backs out you will have major problems when the cross shaft slides out. You will probably total your car, or kill yourself when the rear end locks up.

This isn't a problem on the later rear ends, but the '60s and early '70s cars with the Eaton posi had a big problem with the thrust washers sliding out from behind the 2 pinion gears when you removed the cross shaft. Many people never noticed that the washer was gone and they just put the shaft back in and let it go. This would allow the pinion gear to eat into the soft case and ruin it. It also changes the preload on the clutches and changes the contact area of the gears, which will make them break easier. I just threw this one in for those of you who might also have one of the older muscle cars.

JamesC · 09-16-2008, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big gear head

I always use blue Loktite on the threads of the cross shaft retaining bolt when I put it in.

The GM bolt has red Locktite from the factory. As I'm a bit anal in such matters, I recommend a new bolt: GM 14056196 ($2.54) or Napa BK6351023 ($4.19).

JamesC

big gear head · 09-17-2008, 05:33 PM

Using a new bolt is a good idea. These bolts break often and can be very hard to remove.

JamesC · 10-01-2008, 07:23 PM

Any other comments?

JamesC

JamesC · 11-10-2008, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesC

Use a 5/16 six-point box end wrench and dead blow hammer.

CAUTION: Some members have caused themselves a serious problem when they round the head of the pinion shaft bolt. I'd guess that in most of those cases, a twelve-point box end and/or socket was used along with some yanking, pulling, and grunting. Sure recipe for disaster. ONLY use the 5/16 six-point box end. That and a crisp whack with a dead blow has worked for me every time.

If the bolt is broken, the following tool may be helpful:

http://www.etoolcart.com/fabbri-diff...actor-kit.aspx

JamesC

jb3829 · 05-29-2009, 04:35 PM

Is the new bearing called a differential bearing? Any part#'s? I checked around my usual stores but no one carries them. I'm looking at rockauto but I want to make sure I'm getting the right bearings. Thanks

JamesC · 05-29-2009, 06:57 PM

I purchased my Timkens from AutoZone. Double-check the following:

Wheel Bearing Rear, part #5707
Wheel Seal Rear, part #8660S

JamesC

jb3829 · 05-29-2009, 07:07 PM

Thanks again James.......I assume the bearing would fit an 84Z 10 bolt? Autozone told me they didnt have anything for that year but the website says different

JamesC · 05-29-2009, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jb3829

Thanks again James.......I assume the bearing would fit an 84Z 10 bolt? Autozone told me they didnt have anything for that year but the website says different

You should be good to go.

JamesC

I H8 WWD · 08-06-2009, 04:19 PM

Subscribed for future reference.

bvahnee · 09-23-2009, 10:38 PM

Just so were clear, when you refer to "lube" do you mean grease or the gear oil found in the differential?

JamesC · 09-24-2009, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bvahnee

Just so were clear, when you refer to "lube" do you mean grease or the gear oil found in the differential?

Gear oil.

JamesC

bvahnee · 09-24-2009, 08:15 AM

Excellent, thank you.

bvahnee · 09-25-2009, 02:30 PM

I just finished installing new wheel bearings yesterday following this write up and it went smoothly. Just a word of advise, rent the slide hammer, there's no way around it, especially on old bearings, that tool saved my ***. Also, if you don't rent the driver and need a way to drive the bearing in, I used an old skateboard wheel and it worked great.

I thought new bearings would help with my excessive rear camber and brake sqeuling around left turns but no dice.

oh well

Edit/Update: I installed a new axle shaft and that took care of the brake noise/camber problem. The damn guy that sold me the rear end left out how torqued the shaft was.

twobuy212 · 10-08-2009, 04:06 PM

I haven't found an anwser to this question anywhere. I need to replace the front seal on my 3rd member(diff.) What is the best way to take this out? I have tried to remove it from the front but the only way I see of doing that is by a little force and bending the old seal than prying it out. Any ideas that are less threatening to the gears.

cIaRmOaCrZo · 10-08-2009, 04:41 PM

iv been thinking about replacing one of my axle shafts, both bearings, and seals. the reason is for the axle shaft, i was getting my car dyno turned and the tuner and a kid said my rear wheel was a bit wobbley while making a run. so then i had the rear of car up on jack stands and started it and put it in drive and noticed my driver side rear wheel was indeed wobbley. i slid into a curb 3 years ago and trashed my weld circle light rim on the rear

, but i already replaced it...back to subject, to make sure it wasnt the wheel (the new one), i took the wheel off and put the lugs on against the rear rotor and ran it again. sure enough the axle flange is bent. so iv been looking around for axle shafts, but the cheapest NEW shaft i found was right under $200. should i get a used one?? but i dont want another worn out one or even bent one. AND another problem, im not sure if the axle bearings would cause this, but when im cruisin down the road and hit the slightest bump (and i mean SLIGHTEST) it makes a clatter noise. like a sharp "clack" or "ting". its very annoying

and very embarrasing. and to narrow it down to the axle bearings, when i had it up on jack stands, i kicked the wheel and it made that "clack" noise. so i cant be suspension components... has anyone experienced this noise or problem???

bvahnee · 10-08-2009, 09:34 PM

If you dont want to shell out around 150-200 for a new shaft you can do what I did, buy one on ebay. Yes, as crazy as that sounds, thats what I did. I bought mine off of a seller named "firehawkjeff" (99.9% rating), he owns a parts store called TA Creations USA located in Florida. Now I have a rear end from a 95 Z28 so I needed a late model shaft, but Im sure he sells third gen shafts also.

The chatter sounds like the same problem I had, the bent shaft would actually move the caliper in and out causing a god awful noise coming from the rotor/caliper. It happened on turns and bumps and yes it was embarrassing.

With the new shaft/bearings/seals all those problems went away. Good luck!

cIaRmOaCrZo · 10-14-2009, 05:18 PM

i dont think the that noise on mine is comming from the brake system. i had it sitting still and kicked it, and it make the same noise. i think there is alot of play in the c-clips. not for sure of course (or i wouldnt have posted my problem lol) or possibly the bearings are worn to bad. idk

JamesC · 10-15-2009, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cIaRmOaCrZo

i think there is alot of play in the c-clips. not for sure of course (or i wouldnt have posted my problem lol) or possibly the bearings are worn to bad. idk

If the bearings are bad, the axle probably is as wel (Note the wear in post #6). The telltale sign is weeping/leaking from the seal--fluid will probably drip into the inside of the wheel. New Moser axles, BTW, cost me around $230, IIRC.

JamesC