My car does not downshift well at all no matter what throttle I'm at. I like it when I'm just riding for gas mileage. But when I want to floor it it never hits the lowest gear possible. I have to do it manually usually, and this can get annoying. My brother's girlfriend has a 99 Z28 with the 4L60 and it will always grab the low gear. I was just wondering if there was something I could do about this or will I just have to live with it. Thanks for any help. ------------------ 1990 Formula 350 *Hooker Headers *Flowmaster 3" Catback (no cat) *Accel AFPR *K&N *Airfoil *'99 16x8 Formula Wheels *Metco Lower Control Arms

Check out this web page. I had the same problem as you do and this page realy helped me out. I was just wondering, are you running TPI, TBI, Carb???? I only ran into this problem when i swapped my TBI to carb, but i set it up the same way as this guy did, and i haven't had a lick of trouble on the downshift. Good luck, hope this helps.
http://205.178.174.23/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html



------------------
89 RS Conv 305 700R4
85HO heads
Edelbrock intake
Holley 600
Hedman Hedders and Y pipe

do as great wise graywolf sats: go to his website my son!! anyhow just adjust the detent and by the way tpi, carb or tbi(god help you!)

------------------
1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 heads,350 horse cam,bored.40 over, Edlebrock torker2 and a 600 edlebrock manual choke.

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) comp roller cam, and way better headsa 400 defintely in the works!

It is a TPI. Is this the same linkage as carb.?

------------------
1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Flowmaster 3" Catback (no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*'99 16x8 Formula Wheels
*Metco Lower Control Arms

I had the same problem untill I realised that The kick down cable was not adjusted correctly...very simple to do though

Yes, your TPI linkage is the same as everyone elses. Just in a defferent spot. Yours will be hooked up at the front of the upper plenum. Just look for linkage that goes to the throttle. The cable that swings the opposite way of you throttle cable is your TV cable.



------------------
89 RS Conv 305 700R4
85HO heads
Edelbrock intake
Holley 600
Hedman Hedders and Y pipe
Flowmaster

Okay, I guess I am a little slow or something, but even by looking at this sight I can't figure out how to adjust the cable. But I did learn how it works. And so I tried wrapping a wire behind the clamp that goes to the throttle valve (to work as a spacer). I took it for a test drive and it downshifted 100% better. But before I did this, in DRIVE it would shift from first to second at about 4200 rpms. This annoyed me too. But now it won't shift untill about 5500 (I would like this but I am starting to lose a whole lot of hp above 5000)!! Do you think I adjusted it out too much??

Please respond soon since I will be taking it to the track on Saturday, 1-27-01. I just need to decide whether or not to leave the spacer on. Thanks for all the help.

------------------
1990 Formula 350
*Hooker Headers
*Flowmaster 3" Catback (no cat)
*Accel AFPR
*K&N
*Airfoil
*'99 16x8 Formula Wheels
*Metco Lower Control Arms

Hope i get this right. Ok Look were the TV cable attaches to the bracket. There should be a large button on the back side of the bracket. Some say you can just push it in with you finger and move the piece that the cable goes threw on the front of the bracket. I had to use a pair of channel locks to get mine to go in. I will email a pick of what i'm talking about. Hope this helps




------------------
89 RS Conv 305 700R4
85HO heads
Edelbrock intake
Holley 600
Hedman Hedders and Y pipe
Flowmaster

Actually, to adjust the TV cable u have to push down the metal tab in the slider with all your might to release the cable housing. The slider is that black plastic thingy, and that shiny metal tab in it facing the driver's side is what u have push. Once u push that in, pull back on the cable housing, as in move it towards the back of the car. Then get inside the car and floor the gas pedal. This will pull the cable housing into the correct position for proper shifting. Although when I did this on my car the last step didn't work like it should. So I had to get outside, hold the tab in and rotate the throttle crank to WOT. Basically, what u want is that the TV cable should be stretched to its limit at WOT. At least thats the way it is on my IROC. In fact, my tranny is going out and getting all shushy and crap so I tightened the TV cable ever so slightly, by about one or two clicks, to get firmer and later shifts. There is a slight delay in part throttle shifts but its well worth the way it kicks into 2nd at WOT

BTW make sure the engine's off when u're doing this, or u'll over rev and blow the motor when u floor it in neutral.

------------------
'88 IROC 305 TPI
Crappy 700R4 slushbox
Gutted airboxes
180 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel (gotta luv it)
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler (puke)
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor
Ported plenum
Kills: '94 Z28, Olds Aurora V8, bunch of Mustangs, T-birds, ricers, and others who assumed a 12 year-old car would be too slow.

[This message has been edited by 88irocz28 (edited January 26, 2001).]