Batass

Started up the car yesterday and heard this loud squeal. At first I thought it was an air leak, or maybe a blown header gasekt, but it sounded like it was coming from the trans. I didn't pull anything apart, but I'm thinking converter bolts?

The car didnt do it when I put it away.

The last run at the track I was blowing through the converter a 1000 rpms higher than usual, at least I hope it was the converter.

jaykar

iTrader: (1)

Probably internal, Trans or Converter, but have cracked
a few flexplates that made the chirping noise.

Just a thought

Later

B1qwkbird

If the converter was coming apart internally it would cause the squeal you're talking about, I grenaded a tci 3500 stall in my 83 and it started squealing a few days before it came apart, that would also explain the 1000 extra rpms. Of course, the converter has probably now sent metal all through the trans so time for a going through.

Batass

Well I found the root of the problem. Most of the bellhousing bolts came loose and the left side of the trans had an 1/8 inch gap. Didn't use locktite. This bent the flexplate and was rubbing the starter gear. Thats what was making the noise.

The converter looks like its seen some high heat. Trans seal was fine, no leaks, and the shaft didn't have any play. The magnetic drain plug had almost a 1/4 inch of muck on it. The fluid was pretty clean and smelled fine. The converter also spins very easily, much easier than I remember when I installed it. I'm going to take it tomorrow to a shop and have it tested.

Could a cocked/loose trans kill the converter?

ed o

you're taking the trans to transmission shop or the converter to a converter shop? to check the converter they cut it open.

Batass

The converter. Could the higher stall perhaps have been from binding?

ed o

maybe the pump not fully engaging. flashlight the inside of pump behind the converter seal and look at the pump gears to see if they look damaged. They should still be square in appearance. They are supposed to fit inside the hub of the torque converter look at your hub on the converter if it is still has square slots also. Higher stall comes from oil slinging off of the fins inside the converter. if you look at the dimples on the outside of your converter you'll see the angle of the fins inside. to get more stall they angle the fins more to make the engine rev higher before the oil slings hard enough on the stator/sprag assembly to lock it. make sense? when you hear "furnace brazed fins" it just means they braze the fins so they won't come loose on high rpm motored cars/trucks/buses/and anything else convertered. if oil isn't getting to the converter the engine will rev to the moon but not move the vehicle.

Batass

Yea, I understand. I went and got the converter balance checked at a good shop. Everything seemed perfect. He showed me the inside of a bunch of converters including lockups and cummins. It was interesting. He said he wasnt worried about the converter being how heavy duty it was and how loose it was. Looser it is, the wider the gap between the fans and stator, if I said that right.

He also mentioned the pump. I'll look at what I can see well. The converter hub was perfect.

I'll pick up a new flexplate, new bolts, and use some locktite. Still don't understand how they loosened up. Only thing I can think of is that I'm using the poly clamshell motor mounts with a poly trans mount. The trans mount is much stiffer than the engine mounts which in itself is bad, but the motor shakes a good bit and maybe was working the bellhousing area more?? Only thing I can think of.

Thanks for the reply.