I put a centerforce dual friction in my car about 7 mos ago. I broke it in properly, I had the flywheel surfaced, and replace the throw out bearing and the pilot bushing. The first time I put anything but street tires on it and left at 3500 it slipped like all hell. So I called centerforce and they said pull it apart and take a look, if it is just glazed put it back in and take it easy for a while, and it will be fine. So that is what I did. I got rid of the ET streets and got some drag radials because they do not hook as good. Guess what...still slipped, even after taking it easy, "to remove the glazing" the car has never managed better than a 1.92 60ft time due to clutch slippage. So I called centerforce today (the clutch totally bit it) and they basically told me I was SOL. I am going to try one of the RAM POWER GRIP series clutches, I will let you know how things go. ------------------ Black 89 IROC...355, Solid Crower Cam, TFS heads. 12.0 @ 120.3mph with a 1.9 60ft...all motor

I'm sure you're not the only one. I haven't been real impressed with mine either. Throwout problems. I won't be buying another one from them.

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1984 Z28 350
Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience
My Web Page

Are you positive the clutch fork was totally releasing pressure off the throw out bearing?

Centerforce has a pretty good rep, otherwise.

Yep I had problems also. 1st issue, Its freaking stiff!!!!!! cant say it enough!!!!!!!!!!!! stiff!!!!!!!!stiff!!!!!
2. It created vibration???? Yea it was my clutch pedal but for no reason!!! Yea my bushing are worn"yeah right"
3. One of the reasons it created vibration was one of the fingers bent and started to tick. tick tick tick.!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes my flywheel was surfaced the entire roatating was ballanced.
I do have something good to say about them, The clutch disk wasnt glazed or anything and it held up quite well, although the pressure plate was a total POS!
SSC

Tom, I had heard nothing but good things about centerforce which is why I went with one. Lately I have seen several posts mainly about throwout problems which is what I think my problem is. I'll find out monday when I tear it down.

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1984 Z28 350
Never argue with an idiot, they'll just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience
My Web Page

I had a problem shortly after installing mine. Turns out, Centerforce needs to inform buyers that they may need a longer throwout bearing. There is approximately 5/8" difference between OEM and Centerforce clutches. The longer t/o bearing, which is available from auto parts stores, will solve the problem.

Tom,
As best I could tell, it seemed to be operating properly.
SSC,
Mine was not stiff at all (too mushy if you ask me), I am not sure how it could be, because the pressure plate is not much better than stock on the DF.
I installed the Ram Power Grip tonight, the pressure plate is much beefier and the clutch disk itself is rather mean looking also. I did mess with it a little when it was still on the rack, and the clutch was stiffer than with the Centerforce and also you definantly know when it is engaged. I will keep you guys posted on this clutch.

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Black 89 IROC...355, Solid Crower Cam, TFS heads.
12.0 @ 120.3mph with a 1.9 60ft...all motor

Well I would advise agaisnt any Ram clutch , I had the power grip and it would hang up and not fully disingage , and big pieace of crap , shook the car violenty.

my centerforce is great!! knock on wood. it sounds like most of the problems are not the clutch but parts that do not come with the clutch and instilation.

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race it or sell it

Tom- Do you know if this throw out bearing problem exists with the T56 clutch pac? I just got my centerforce d.f. from summit and the throw out bearing is already permanately fastened. To the clutch disk?

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89 iroc,zz4/700r4/3:70 gears/koni yellows/herb adams bars/and alot of other crap to make it work!

I bought the "Centerforce" throwout bearing when I bought my clutch, should it be the right size? I assume so....

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1991 Camaro RS/Z28,polished TPI, 355ci. Sportsman 11 heads, LT-4 Hot cam,Pete Jackson gear drive, on,and on, and on... 13.4 @ 105.98 with a 2:77 rear, no traction, no tuning, no practice. Car is pictured in Chevy High Performance magazine, June 2000 issue.
http://www.geocities.com/jasonsz28us/INDEX.htm


1997 GMC Yukon, 4 wheel drive, leather, loaded, Gibson exhaust, K&N intake, Boston pro series speakers..... That's it so far.

1969 Camaro,12 point cage, total project right now, I am planning an LS1 - T56 - and a Vette independent rear. Pro Touring crowd, look out! 8^)

I really hope that a 5/8" longer t/o bearing cures my problem too. It makes though. Thanks Tom!

My DF has been working flawlessly for over 2 years now. I've got several 1/4 passes on it with my old 305(many high 12 sec nitrous passes) and I'm racking up more with my new engine. Clutch pedal is very easy and shifts are perfect. I think a lot of clutch trouble are from the hydraulics. Make sure your system is bled and your getting full piston travel from the slave cylinder. I think it's around 14mm minimum. I was actually having some trouble with the clutch not releasing after the motor swap but found it wasn't getting the correct amount of piston travel. I first changed the slave cylinder which didn't cure it. Next I changed the master cylinder which solved the problem. Just make sure you bleed the hell out of it.



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David Tuschhoff
1991 RS/Z28 Camaro M5,
Fuel injected 355ci V8.
12.55 @ 111.6mph 1.94 60'
My f-body page!

twothings i've foun a stamped pilot bushing sucksget a roller had a stamped in there and it would drag the tranny between shiifts second the original slave cylinders from gm are a crap shoot there is a blockage i the line half way down to ease the stock clutch into gear which also increase the tme it takes for the fluid to get back to the resovoir and finally did you wipe the flywheel down with a paint thinner or kerosene if not the machinig process leaves dirt and gunk embetted in the flywheel and when you launch it grinds it deeper.mine has performed flawlessly aand is theonly reason the t-5has held up this long

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87 trans am 350,L98 aluminum heads,LT4 hot cam,slp runners,slp 1 5/8 headers,3in.y-pipe,edelbrock base,hi flo cat,air foil,afpr,as&m ported plenum,t-5 tranny w/centerforce clutch and a 3.27 9bolt(11.9in. brakes),ed wright's fastchip,relocated iat sensor,tb bypass,accel supercoil,hollowed maf,slp 3in. catback,a/c delete.
oh!no!i think my maf is going!!!!!!!!!!!!

14.10@97mph w/2.01 60'

slp catback is finally on!!!
fastchip prom is in.OH!MAN!
FLOWMASTER S.U.C.K.S

I had mine put in after I noticed a lot of slippage(w/the stock unit) do the mods I made. I love the damn thing. I got some balls in first gear again!
Sorry, but it worked out for me.

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1990 Formula
Factory:TPI-305/Dual Cat(230hp),5 Speed,3.42 rear, Dealer:Aluminum Drive Shaft
Mods:SLP air foil,K&N Filter, Accel:wires,coil cap,rotor.Hypertech Thermomaster chip,Stat,Fan switch,TES headers,MSD6AL,AFPR(46), Harwood fiberglass hood,original GM "Notchback GTA" hatch.
Flowmaster 3" Cat-back exhaust,TB coolant bypass, Centerforce dual friction clutch.
1999 Lexus GS 400 everyday car(It's a V8 so its not Rice)
1987 Voyager Minivan. Cost me $300=runs like new.No repairs for over 2 years(fingers crossed)
DIRECT LINK TO PICS OF MY CAR. NO WEB-PAGE. http://community-2.webtv.net/MZavraz...A90/page9.html

Is there a way to put the roller pilot bearing in while the engine is in the car and i can do at home. I dont want to take my car to the shop so they can charge me an arm and a leg to pull the tranny out and clutch out.

Yeah you can do it at home, but you need to take the tranny out. My center force clucth worked great for a few years, but then the pressure plate acted up and the fingers got messed up and made teh car vibrate at high rpms.

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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.