Hey guys, I want to get a new DS, i'll need to know; - c-c length (measuring from the center of the u-joints - and u-joint style on each end. I have a measuring tape, and can handle measuring the c-c length, however i'm not sure what the u-joint styles are. I have a 1982 TA, with stock parts. A super T-10 trans, and a 7.5" rear end. Is this a "1310" style pinion yoke? I remember hearing it wasn't a regular series, it was a different type - can someone shed some light on this? And also, what about the trans yoke style? Ie, i'm planning on buying a shaft from a... whatever, Crown Vic, 4th gen, etc, assuming I can get the right length, or get it shortened, then I intend on re-using my almost new tranny yoke. So i'll need to know if I can get a conversion u-joint to go from *whatever* to "1982 Trans-am style", whatever that is. Thanks

Been 7 years now since I did driveshafts for a living, but I can tell you it's not a 1310 or any other 13 series. If you're using a T-10 transmission, you just need the driveshaft from any '82 Z28/TransAm with a T10. GM did build them that way, so the correct driveshaft is already out there in someone else's pile of parts.
If you're wanting a stronger driveshaft, slide the yoke all the way onto the output shaft, then slide it back exactly 1". Then you can measure center-to-center with the full weight of the car resting level, supported by the front tires on blocks and the rear axle on jackstands.
Now, conversion-style u-joints are available for 1350 to GM, and best to have the shaft built with 1350 yokes on both ends. 3" OD tube is a good fit with the stock torque arm, 3.5" is virtually guaranteed to cause major headaches.
For my '88 that ran low 10s at the dragstrip, I went with 3", .095"-wall thickness, and it wasn't TOO heavy. Stock GM tubing is .065"-wall, except some trucks used .083"
If you want an aluminum driveshaft, be aware that the aluminum yokes will fail before a 1350 joint. Scary.

I have a steel DS now. It just shakes, and from what i've read on this forum, despite balancing, that may be the problem.

I searched and found that I posted the length already,. 44 5/8". I believe 44.5->45" is the 'norm' for this car.

Apparently 3R is what the series is. I'm looking at an inexpensive way to put an AL shaft into my car, to try to stop the vibration that i'm experiencing. I'm thinking about picking up a factory AL shaft and just getting it shortened, and using conversion u-joints. Due to the long DS that this car has (short tranny), mustang, 4th gen, etc - won't work.
I'm hoping a cop car crown vic would... we'll see.

Steel does NOT inherently shake or cause problems. GM F-car steel driveshafts do tend to have such problems, but it's the assembly and welding and balancing, not the choice of metal.

No, of course - that's what I meant.