Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Ok guys, i jus upgraded to 4:10 gears in the rear with a new 10 bolt 7.5 rear end with a new posi unit and my rpm's are pretty high when im doin 60-65 on the highway and i do a lot of highway traveling. So i wanna go to a t56 6speed instead of my t5 5speed, the 5speed is fun an all but i would love a 6speed. Before i go any further i got a couple of questions. first, wat can i use from my t5 to make this t56 setup work? second, wat do i need to make this work or in other words wat modifications do i need to make to my car? third, do i need a new driveshaft? (i know i need a new cross member but which one) I know to use the 4th gen 93-97 lt1 t56 an not the ls1 tranny. fourth, wat about scattersheild and clutch wat kind? Any help is greatly appreciated.
You'd need to cut back your shifter tunnel hole, revise the Xmem, deal with the Electronic VSS, and "possibly" shorten the driveshaft. This would allow you to reuse all your existing bellhousing/clutch/linkage.
For the standard T56 upgrade, check the Sticky at the top of the forum. The complete LT1 T56 is almost a direct swap in, but using all the 4thgen hydraulics/bell/clutch.
The adaptor plate is available from various sources, you just need an LS1 T56 with the longer input shaft (or in this case, an LT1 with an LS1 input shaft).
relle? very interesting, i think that would be the bast way to go. if i only had 1900 bucks i would buy ur's. where would i be able to find this adaptor plate?
relle? very interesting, i think that would be the bast way to go. if i only had 1900 bucks i would buy ur's. where would i be able to find this adaptor plate?
You can use a ls tranny I did. I got a smoking deal on a used 100 mile t56 from a 05 gto ($1500 cdn). At first I was going to use the adapter plate but didn't want the 25lbs of steel. I had my input shaft shortened and the mid plate machined for a ram hyd. throwout bearing that cost $400us with the bearing. I'm using a drews crossmember and a spohn torque arm. I will need to get a shorter driveshaft. So a LS tranny can be done for not that much hassle.
Welding hardened steel is not recommended and has to be done by a professional welder/machinst with all the right equiptment.. Annealing, balancing, shielding, etc.. all come into play. Even then, I wouldn't put it behind any motor with more than 400lb-ft of TQ.
Did you respline the input shaft when you shortened it? I remembered someone posting about shorting an LS1 input shaft by cutting and rewelding it, sorry if the wrong neuron fired.. I like my feet too much to cut&weld an input shaft..
I'd love to see pics of your mods to the LS1 T56 to fit your SBC..
I put some pics in my album. Here was the first email I had with Carl from Campbell Geartech.
"Hi , Ok ,This is how we have done this swap , You can use the stock bell , one bolt hole is missing but you can use the other 5 [ with the q-time bell you can use 6 plus you have the safety of a steel bell] LS hyd bearing is to long , We use a ram bearing and machine the front of the case for a sleeve to hold the bearing , than use early type flywheel and clutch , we use Ram products . If you do not want to shorten the shaft , can use input from LT ,T56 and use a pilot brg that goes in the very rear counterbore of the crank , picture attached
We can supply these parts."
So with that adaptor plate i would be able to use an ls1 t56 correct? and doing that i would be able to use everything that i have and the only thing i would need is shorter driveshaft and different crossmember?
So with that adaptor plate i would be able to use an ls1 t56 correct? and doing that i would be able to use everything that i have and the only thing i would need is shorter driveshaft and different crossmember?
I put some pics in my album. Here was the first email I had with Carl from Campbell Geartech.
"Hi , Ok ,This is how we have done this swap , You can use the stock bell , one bolt hole is missing but you can use the other 5 [ with the q-time bell you can use 6 plus you have the safety of a steel bell] LS hyd bearing is to long , We use a ram bearing and machine the front of the case for a sleeve to hold the bearing , than use early type flywheel and clutch , we use Ram products . If you do not want to shorten the shaft , can use input from LT ,T56 and use a pilot brg that goes in the very rear counterbore of the crank , picture attached
We can supply these parts."
Have you verified the spline engagement between the disc and input? The back disc in my Street twin rids almost off the edge of the stock LT1 input, it looks like it wouldn't even engage the splines of your shortened LS1 shaft. (Maybe that's why they use RAM products ? limiting you to those clutches with this mod?)
I haven't put the t56 back together yet. I haven't bought a clutch yet either, and still waiting for my new engine to get done. As for the cost it was a hair over $400us for the parts and machining. I plan on using a single disc clutch, not sure what brand yet.
So with that adaptor plate i would be able to use an ls1 t56 correct? and doing that i would be able to use everything that i have and the only thing i would need is shorter driveshaft and different crossmember?
A cross member and torque arm would be needed. I have the Spohn setup for for the aftermarket t56 for sale, if you go that route.
So with that adaptor plate i would be able to use an ls1 t56 correct? and doing that i would be able to use everything that i have and the only thing i would need is shorter driveshaft and different crossmember?
I have a LS1 yeared T56 ('99 to be exact) behind a Gen 1 SBC ('82 2pc block). Works like a charm.
I used a Lakewood bell meant for my factory ST10 4 speed. McLeod adapter plate 8-207, extended pilot bushing 8-1094 and some fabrication on the shifter hole and made a crossmember. Love the 6 speed! There is obviously more to it, but it can and has been done!
Bell forward I reused all of my existing components.
I know I wanna do this swap sooo badly, I despritly need a 6 speed in my Iroc. I think im gonna go with the ls1 tranny instead of the lt1
There's nothing magical about the LS1 version (strength wise), it just has a longer input shaft that happens to be needed for using the T5 adapter plate. If you're doing an Auto->Manual swap, the LT1 setup is alot easier to work with. The internals of both versions are the same.
Ooo ok, i see. so the best way to go is with the lt1 tranny but jus put an ls1 input shaft on it
Neither way is better than the other, they're the same.. The LS1 units tend to be harder to find and more expensive. The LT1 units tend to have more miles on them and need to have the LS1 input shaft purchased and installed.
If you find a great deal on an LS1 unit, that would be the best. If you find a great deal on an LT1 unit and find a used LS1 input and can install it, that would be the best. Both will need the $200 adapter plate, need driveshaft and Xmem mods.
If you don't have the T5 pedals/linkage/bellhousing/clutch already, doing a full (4thgen hydraulics/bellhousing/clutch) LT1 swap is a better route.
ok I understand now. yea i already have the whole t5 setup in there now and im already tired of it so thats why im doing all this research now and gettin all the info that i need but thanks to that adapter plate and the info u provided I dont have to do as much as I thought I would have to do
