Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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I am im the process of doing my T-56 swap and i have run into a problem. I bought the T-56 with a clutch. The Clutch is claimed to be a McLeod and has about 12,000 miles on it. The clutch disc is in rough shape(at least i think so), the pressure plate is fine... I work at Advance Auto Parts and i have access to a perfection clutch kit for a little over $200, But i can get a new McLeod clutch disc for about 180.. My motor isn't near stock hp i just want something that will last, i don't want to burn up a clutch for awhile... What do you guys think is the way to go? Thanks!
Also it says "Valeo" on the cover with a number "382109-D0" and then a "P" with a circle around it.... What do you guys think?
The LTx pull-type clutches were different than just about all other push-types on the market.
Valeo mfg'd the OEM LT1/LT4 pressure plate, not the "clutch". McLeod uses the LT4 pressure plate with their clutch discs and flywheels.
I'd take the flywheel/PP to a shop and have them check/resurface them. If they clean up well, just get the replacement McLeod disc and you're good as new.
The LTx pull-type clutches were different than just about all other push-types on the market.
Valeo mfg'd the OEM LT1/LT4 pressure plate, not the "clutch". McLeod uses the LT4 pressure plate with their clutch discs and flywheels.
I'd take the flywheel/PP to a shop and have them check/resurface them. If they clean up well, just get the replacement McLeod disc and you're good as new.
Well the pressure plate is smooth as glass with no pits or anything. Friend of mine who has done many clutches told me it looked good. Either way i have an OEM style and quality clutch, Nothing special?
Well the pressure plate is smooth as glass with no pits or anything. Friend of mine who has done many clutches told me it looked good. Either way i have an OEM style and quality clutch, Nothing special?
"OEM style" meaning that most aftermarket LT1 clutch/PP/FW kits use the LT4 PP because they are unique to the LT1 T56, and are very good PPs.
Even my $1200 Street Twin that holds 1000hp, uses the exact same PP. You have a very nice single-disc clutch kit there, you just need to replace the friction disc.
I am now having an issue doing the T-56 swap, i installed the Lt1 flywheel and it looks to small to me.... i was under the impression that you could reuse the original sbc starter but maybe you have to use an LT1 starter with the LT1 flywheel?.... The flywheel has a gap between the teeth and the starter,(a pretty big gap) Is the flywheel wrong or do i have to use an LT1 starter? Heres some pics to show the space in between the two...
Also in this pic is there a pilot bearing or bushing or both that goes into the center of the crank hole thing?(where the arrow is pointing) How does it go into the hole? just put the pilot bearing in there or the bearing then bushing? Any help would be apprecciated, Thanks!
I am now having an issue doing the T-56 swap, i installed the Lt1 flywheel and it looks to small to me.... i was under the impression that you could reuse the original sbc starter but maybe you have to use an LT1 starter with the LT1 flywheel?.... The flywheel has a gap between the teeth and the starter,(a pretty big gap) Is the flywheel wrong or do i have to use an LT1 starter? Heres some pics to show the space in between the two...
You need to get a starter for a 153-tooth flywheel. Looks like your starter is for the larger (167?) tooth flywheel. What flywheel/flexplate did you have on before that used that starter?
Quote:
Originally Posted by v10viper04
Also in this pic is there a pilot bearing or bushing or both that goes into the center of the crank hole thing?(where the arrow is pointing) How does it go into the hole? just put the pilot bearing in there or the bearing then bushing? Any help would be apprecciated, Thanks!
Bearing OR Bushing.. Each has it's own +/-. A bushing will have slightly more drag on the pilot. A bearing can destroy itself and send metal bits around and possibly in the clutch.. You just tap the bearing or bushing in until it's flush with the crank surface
You need to get a starter for a 153-tooth flywheel. Looks like your starter is for the larger (167?) tooth flywheel. What flywheel/flexplate did you have on before that used that starter?
Bearing OR Bushing.. Each has it's own +/-. A bushing will have slightly more drag on the pilot. A bearing can destroy itself and send metal bits around and possibly in the clutch.. You just tap the bearing or bushing in until it's flush with the crank surface
What would YOU recommend to use? Safer to get a pilot bushing? Thanks
What would YOU recommend to use? Safer to get a pilot bushing? Thanks
If you're paranoid, get a bushing.. I have a bearing in mine, just because I had one on the shelf when doing the install and didn't want to stop to go to the store...
Get a bushing. Also the Mcleod disc you have is called the 800 series disc. That disc was phased out by Mcleod for a superior 500 series disc. Your replacement is 261571.
Get a bushing. Also the Mcleod disc you have is called the 800 series disc. That disc was phased out by Mcleod for a superior 500 series disc. Your replacement is 261571.
Also i cut the holes for the master cylinder today and i rough fitted the master..( yes i know the bolts can't be used, they were only for getting it into place.... but also i am wondering... the master sits on a bump.... does it have to be flattened or will it do that on its own when its torqued down? If you look on the pic the left side of the master doesn't fit flat against the body.....
Also anyone know where u can get the U-bolt for the master? I haven't tried a dealer yet but i tried "GMpartsdirect.com" and its on backorder through them..... that's the only thing i need to finish off the pedals.
Ok well i just called a GM dealership and they directed me to a dealership in Indiana called "Reeves" who had one in stock and i am having them ship it to me. Its going to cost me about $30 but i don't mind paying money for it to help them out a little bit. (not that $30 will make or break them) but at least i bought it rather then complain about the price. haha but i'm pumped its on its way though.
The master cylinder for the clutch typically mounts to a bracket that hangs off one of the brake master cylinder studs. I grabbed a bracket for a T5 car from a junkyard and it works fine. Are you using stock GM hydraulics?
The master cylinder for the clutch typically mounts to a bracket that hangs off one of the brake master cylinder studs. I grabbed a bracket for a T5 car from a junkyard and it works fine. Are you using stock GM hydraulics?
I'm using fourth gen pedals, with the full hydraulics slave/master/reservoir all pre-bled from TPI parts....
Is there enough slack in the line running to the master to located it on the outboard side of the brake master cylinder stud (the factory 3rd gen bracket goes under the nut that holds that brake master to the power booster)? If so I'd round up that bracket and just do it that way.
I used 3rd gen pedals becasue they were easy to come by in junk yards around here. Except for cutting the holes for the clutch pushrod and the shifter everything was a bolt in deal (minus some wiring and the custom x-member I bought from Skulte).
