I had a Torsen posi in my rearend with stock axles, no problems. I replaced the wheel bearings, seals, and the axles with Alloy USA pieces and now I can't get the block back in the Torsen. To make matters worse I can't get the C-clip off of the drivers side axle now. It was a tight fit going on but now it won't come off. I have tried forcing the worm gears outward by rotating the axles but nothing works. The pass. side axle can be removed and installed with no problems. Now I'm stuck with a diff that can't be assembled or disassembled! Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

I don't have any experience with the Torsen posi units per say, but I have a couple of ideas. First, the c-clips should never be tight going in. They sould slide right into the groove in the axel. I've never heard of the company that made your axels. My guess is that they are cheapie replacements that aren't machined to the tightenest tolerances. This may also be why the block won't got back in the unit. If the ends of the shafts stick into the unit too far you won't be able to get the block in. I would suggest ditching the axels and getting a set of Moser or Yukon shafts. I run Mosers in my car and they went in just like a stock shaft and have worked with both the Lock Rite I had in the car first and the posi I run now.

To get the c-clip off you could try using a punch and a hammer to knock the clip loose.If you can get the clip moved far enough you can probably get a screwdriver or small pry tool under it and pry it the rest of the way off the shaft. If none of this works you can try heating it up with a torch (fair warning this will ruin the axel shaft and the c-clip both because it will void the temper in the metal). If that still doesn't work cutting may be your only option.

This is a comon problem with the Aloy USA axles. They don't cut the c clip button right and it causes problems with c clip and cross shaft installation. If you measure the thickness of the button on your original axles it will be .250 thick. If you measure the button on the USA axles you will find that it is thicker. You need to take the axles to a machine shop and have the buttons turned down, or send them back and get a good set of axles from Moser or Tom's Differentials.

Just take a grinder and grind the button down a touch so the block fits

I used Superior axles from Summit when I did my Torsen swap. $90 each http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

They fit perfect. On Superiors website they list the GM # that is for disk brake axles as a direct swap but they worked with my drum brakes. Just throwing out another option. Not sure of other peoples experiences with Superior but I am very happy.

I was grinding down the buttons a little at a time and test fitting them when the c-clip got stuck. As soon as the clip is out the brand new axles are going in the trash. They were not inexpensive ($200) from Summit but I will not tolerate bolt-on parts that need to be modified to work. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Just to save you a little time, if you decide to try to save these axles the c clip button is suppose to be .250 thick. You can cut them to this size and save yourself the test fittings.