Just some photos of my 10 bolt upgrade = $700.00 for master bearing kit , axle bearings and seals, 28 spline axles, including 3.42 ring and pinion, and labor ,$535.00 for Eaton 28 spline Posi.,$169.00 for LPW Ultimate support cover.

Two more photos.

Damn man you could've at least painted it. J/K, looks good, what do you have under the hood that requires the upgrades?

Its a 5.0 with some bolt -ons, but I wanted to switch from 2.73s to 3.42s and upgrade to a Eaton posi. The LPW cover just seemed to be the logical choice. Paint !!!! Why didn't I think of that ? The cover will stay bare but Ill tape it of and rattle can the housing and tubes later. Thanks

Here's a link to Jegs were I bought the cover = http://www.jegs.com/i/L.P.W./619/301-7.5G/10002/-1

Noice.

How does it feel with a new rear end?

Why not find out for yourself? Every V6 thirdgen in any yard will probably have 3.42s. Open but its still 3.42s. Its one of those upgrades where you wonder why you never did it sooner.

I went from a 5.0 TBI with a LT1 cam/2200 Stall/2.73s to 3.27s and it made a world of a difference even more with the 2200 stall. Now imagine going from that setup to a LT1 with a Yank SS3600...

It is a huge difference when coming off the line and it actually pushes me in to the seat much harder than before ,at least hard enough that the safety belt even locks. You can feel the rear end grabbing with the Posi.with both wheels,kind of digging in. Much more responsive at any speed. I like gunning it from a stop/or roll from the on ramp on to the interstate and a back road I found. Nice...RPMs sound fine while cruising at 65mi. per hour, but sounds a little high at lets say 75 with the 3.42s and overdrive. Also I can lay a "two" wheel peal a mile long if I wanted to. I don't but the option is there. Its worth every penny I spent. Also the Corvette servo I installed into the transmission works really well, nice and firm first to second and second to third shifts. Between the gears and servo I can chirp them mainly on the second to third gear shift and nice and loud. Thats even with the Posi. and a ton of tools/etc. in the rear compartment.

ronusmcmma,

Great looking car...! I have thought of doing the whole rear end change and now it's time to pull the trigger. After reading your thread, I have already been to Jegs and started my shopping list. I do have a couple of questions for everyone though.

1. What are the pro's and con's of a limited slip versus a posi-trac rear end.

2. I noticed the axles and posi unit are 28 spline, but the ring and pinion gears I saw on Jegs were 27 spline. Is this an issue or normal?

3. Is there a kit I can buy that has the extra stuff I need? Such as fluid/oil, gasket, etc.

4. I'm looking at going the 3.73 route instead of the 3.42 route. I don't plan much long distance travel at all other than the rare 25 miles (90% highway) one way to and from work. Will the 3.73's and T-5 suffer too terribly much?

5. I have a '91 RS, T-5. It came stock with a 3.08. I've noticed ring and pinion gears come in either 2-Series or 3-Series. The difference being 2-Series fits 3.08 and numerically lower carrier and 3-Series fits 3.23 and numerically higher carrier. I'm assuming I should get the 2-Series?


As with everyone, money is best saved nowadays. With this in mind, I went with comparable Jegs components when building my shopping list. Here is what I have come up for my parts list thus far:

Eaton Posi-Unit, P/N 362-19599-010, $519.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/19599-010/10002/-1)
OR
Detroit Locker Limited Slip Unit, P/N 357-912A317, $389.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Detroit+Locker...2A317/10002/-1)

Moser C-Clip Replacement Axles, P/N 718-A102804, $250.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Moser/718/A102804/10002/-1)

Moser Axle Bearing & Retaining Plates, P/N 718-9563, $29.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Moser/718/9563/10002/-1)

Jegs 10-Bolt Ring & Pinion, P/N 555-60009, $159.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...60009/10002/-1)

L.P.W Rear End Support Cover, P/N 619-101-7.5G, $154.99 (http://www.jegs.com/i/L.P.W./619/101-7.5G/10002/-1)

I know everyone has lives of their own, but if someone can find the time to provide feedback, I would certainly appreciate your effort. On a side note, I have purchsed, but not installed, a set of C6 Corvette wheels, the 18" and 19" ones. I doubt it does, but will these wheels have an influence on upgrading the rear end?

skip91

If you replace the gears, get the carrier of the same series as your new gears. I.e. you're putting in 3.42 or 3.73, get a 3 series one.

"Limited slip" and "Posi Trac" are the same thing. Limited slip is the generic name for such systems; "posi" was GM's trade name for it back in the 60s, and it sort of stuck. A locker is something different though.

No those wheels won't really affect your gearing; the OD of the tires is about the same. Stock. the tires on these cars are in the 26 - 26½" range; the Vette ones aren't too much different from that.

You'll also need a "gear install kit" with all the bearings and such, I'd strongly recommend a crush sleeve eliminator instead of a crush sleeve, and some tools. Search posts on this forum by my userID and you'll find pics of the tool.

[quote=skip91;51513891. What are the pro's and con's of a limited slip versus a posi-trac rear end.[/QUOTE]

1. Limited slip and posi are the same thing.

2. 27 splines on the pinion.

This may be helpful at some point:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...-10-bolts.html (FAQ About 10-Bolts)

JamesC

Wow...! Thanks for the quick reply guys

I found a guy selling a complete rearend that has all new:
1. Richmond Gear Differential Install Kit (bearings/seals) (Jegs, P/N 836-83-1044-M)
2. wheel cylinders
3. shoes
4. Eaton Posi Unit (Jegs, P/N 362-19599-010)
5. 3.73 Richmond gears (Jegs, P/N 836-49-0007-1)

The one thing that now puzzles me is that he installed the 2-Series vice the 3-Series. Am I correct in assuming he did not change his original carrier?

I wasn't planning on buying a complete rearend, but he's only asking $350 for it. I was just going to install the parts into my original rearend.

Again, thanks for the "schoolin' " and quick replies!

skip91

Dose he have receipts for "everything" and who put it together ? Also if hes using a 2 series carrier(the Eaton Unit) with 3.73 ring and pinion than that means he used the thick gears. Thats the only way to use that ratio in a 2 series carrier and the ring and pinion he is listing seems to be just that, a 3.73 for a 2 series carrier. 350.00 is a really great price considering the Eaton posi is over 500.00. alone. As I mentioned,get receipts and open the differential and take a look to see whats really in there.The reason I mentioned "who put it together" is so you can talk to them about the install concerning parts used (Master Kit,etc.) Well I guess that the master kit including the axle bearing and seals is irrelevant because you will have to buy new ones .I do not beleave you can reuse the ones that have been already installed in his rear.I may be mistaken about that so maybe someone can jump in and tell us for sure,

they make gears that fit other carries.

i.e they make 2.73 gears that fir a 3 series carries
they also make 3.42's that fit a 2 seires carrier etc etc

so if he didnt change the carrier he got the gears that were made to fit it

if u try putting 3 series gears on a 2 series carrier it just wont work, so if it went together it has the right parts

No, that they don't.

Not possible to go that way. The other way (3 series gears on a 2 series carrier), yes; but not 2 series gears on a 3 series carrier.

Here... from a week or 2 ago.... tired of typing it OVER AND OVER.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...esiioriii.html (10bolt carrier, seriesIIorIII???)

thats nice but with us modded tpi guys pushing over 330whp and 400wtq i would rather get a moser 9 inch or something... im already working on my 3rd rear end......

Found this ad locally. I'm thinking it's a really good price at $450, but not sure about the gear being a 4.10. That's probably too much isn't it? I rarely drive my Camaro, but when I do it's 90% Interstate for 50 miles round trip.

"Used, but in good shape 3 series 10 bolt rear end, with 4.10 Richmond gears, Eaton detroit locker, and Moser 28 spline axles"

Thoughts please...

Will the diff able to handle more HP and torque with this upgrade? I always thought the 10 bolt was very weak, even when upgraded. That cover looks very nice btw.

I'm sure some of the guys here can give a precise RPM at 65 mph. with 4.10s and a manual trans.but I will say that even my car with the 3.42s is running a little high at that speed .My Tachometer is not working but I can tell when the 700r4 is over revving and that's with overdrive.

Edit = To bad your running a manual because this could help you. = http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tr...4-11-whos.html (700r4 with 4.11 who's done it?)

what is a crush sleve eliminator ?

Basically I wanted a L.S.D. with a 3.42 gear ratios from the 2.73 open differential I had.
The shop that did the install (called "The Rear End Shop" ) said to upgrade to 28 spline axles from 26 and use the 28 spline Eaton Posi. with the L.P.W. support cover and that should allow me to push the ten bolt hard with the set up I'm running now ,including anything up to a 350 upgrade pushing around 400 hp. when the time comes. Keep in mind this is with the auto trans and street tires,that can be considered a soft launch. If your planing on pushing your car with sticky tires/slicks or even street strip tires/hard launch, than a 9in.or 12 bolt is the way to go. My car is a street car and I really have no need for either of those, although with all the praise concerning the two I have considered them,I'm sure it would be great considering I could sell the upgraded 10 bolt and that would allow me to afford the 9 in.. if for no other reason than to say I have the darn thing.

Crush sleeve eliminator

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-4111/

thanks for the info.I'm going to change the gears in mine from a 2.73 open to a 3.23 pos, and was looking for a easyer way to set pinion shaft.

What about the drive gear and driven gear in the transmission, did you change those? If not how far off is the speedometer reading?

After all the work on the car I still have not switched speedo gears. With 26.8in.tall rear tires and the 3.42 ratio ,and this is nowhere near a extremely accurate reading but the digital speed indicators that you find on the road side say I'm right on. Ive been clocked by the cops several times with the gun pointed right at me with no problems.So I'm going to say this is accurate.

Haven't put it on the road yet.But I am going to check what gears are in trans and put the right ones in it.

NEED HELP I have a 406 with World Sportsman 2 heads, 510 lift on a flat tappet cam, other than that stock lower end. Should be in the neighborhood of 450 horsepower?
I didn't read all the posts, looks good though.
_______ I want to sell my 9bolt in the car and upgrade to at least a 4th GEN 7 5/8 (or is it 7.5) I MAY HAVE TO BUY AN AFTERMARKET 9INCH or Moser or other racing rear end___________________________
I need to know what to do for a rear end... thought I'd start here. IF anyone knows a thread already going, I want to find out:
1. whats the likelyhood of a 10 bolt such as the modified one here, holding up to my 406 at the drag strip
2. Are there any for sale on thirdgen.org?
3. My main point is, does anyone have experience drag racing a stock housing that has been modified, is it worth my time/money......

I am looking to buy one of three ways, junkyard 10 bolt and modify it........ or... buy a modified factory housing thats already modified..... or spend over a $1000 on a used racing rear end, such as my brother bought a 9" for a Cutlass at $1,350.

If there is a thread on thirdgen.org that deals specifically with my concern, can someone point me in that direction. I also wonder if thirdgen.org has a "rule" against starting a thread called "Want To Buy a rear end that will handle 500 Horsepower". Thanks in advance, Eddie.

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