Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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ok guys, heres the finished product. steel is 3/16" mild steel, partially tig welded and the rest is mig welded. the tubing is 1/8" thick. the assembly slips over the snout of the pumpkin(center section) and then has 2 brackets that slip over the pumpkins supports which will be drilled (see holes) and bolted to the pumpkin with grade 8, 1.5"x 3/8" bolts. its pretty close to the stock setup as far as the tq arm mount on the stock 9bolt. My TQ arm is an aftermarket Jegster shorty tunnel mount tq arm.
im pretty happy with the way it turned out... its a really tight fit (bang on with a mallet) even with the bolts not put in i cant pull it off or twist it at all. i wanted it to be removable which is why its not welded but there are a bunch of points at which i can if i ever decided to down the road.
now all thats left is to dissassemble the rear(axles,posi, etc) transfer my brackets over from my 9bolt and then put it all back.
let me know wat you guys think. i took a couple of ideas from some members,BMR, grannys etc. and im super jealous of anyone with a plasma cutter since cutting 3/16" steel with a sawzaw and a jig saw is NOT FUN OR FAST! took me 3 days, last day for painting etc. i think its plenty strong but im interested to see what you guys have to say
looks interesting. Im liking it. I assume you have checked out BIGMODS torque arm mount? he has through bolts going through the case itself with nuts inside the diff. They would add some more strength if you are questioning strength.
It seems that all the force would be transferred to the front of the pumpkin, so unless that broke off, all should be fine.
Either way...doesnt look bad. Im anxious to see it fully attached and set up with a torque arm. I have a bunch of 8.8s since I collect them apparently haha. I gave thought to using one in an f-body build but I never get past thinking about the torque arm mount. I usually assume that Ide just run a ladder bar type setup.
Nice work...keep us updated with it!
J.
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ghettocruiser... lol yea im pretty sure its 3/16" but if it was 1/4" i wouldnt be surprised! it was insane to cut with a jigsaw and sawzaw. yea im tryin to get it in so i can post pics i just swapped both spring perches/panhard bar bracket to the ford 8.8 from the 9bolt.
shagwell... i wanted to do something like yours but once u welded it to the tubes it was no longer removable. in case i trash the rear i wanted it removable, like the idea of bolt on LCARBS... they work fine bolted in but if i ever wanted to have them welded in i could. also one u welded to the axle tubes u changed the tq arm mount. basically when load is on the tq arm its energy is no longer only forced onto the pumpkin/center section but its transfered to the axle tubes. which would require fully welding the axle tubes. granny in my original thread explained it in more detail. i wanted it to only bolt onto the pumpkin so 95% of the load is transfered to the pumpkin and the axle tubes dont need anymore reinforcement. (this is why granny never welds the tubes to the housing on his rears that he builds) bc its not needed with a stock type setup TQ Arm. still yours turned out nice, but u also made your own tq arm, i will be using the tubular shorty jegster one.... which is designed to fit into a stock type setup at the pumpkin.
I realize that you were going for a bolt-on type tq arm mount, just saying I would probably run a brace up the top of the pumpkin and through bolt as 86TA noted. You are placing a lot of stress on the one housing brace. - Basically, the pumpkin is going to try to bend the plates/break the one cast section and twist/slide upwards to pivot out of the collar. A section of 1" angle run up the top and through bolted would add a lot of strength to the mount.
Not trying to bash your design, just a little "constructive criticism"; all-in-all you're doing a great job. It is probably fine as is for mild power, but I'm an over-kill person. I'd rather build it to handle 1000hp and have it never put through over 500 than build it for 500 and have some put it through 700.
I did distribute some of the load to the axle tubes, but the down-leg braces that tie to the factory pinion dampner holes also distribute much of that load to the pumpkin. What you can't really see in those pics is that the pipes that run from tube to tube are also welded to the pumpkin for almost 6", on each side of the pipe. Not really worrried about hurting the housing, as it will be assembled with the proper parts from the git-go. Welding the axles tubes is considerably easy when compared to the fab work you're doing.
i appreciate ur constructive criticism... not really following you with the 1" angle. if you could draw something out like on a napkin id appreciate it lol. i was thinkin maybe a peice of the 3/16" steel curved to fit the pumpkin set at 90degrees (like the bolted areas) but have it twist and reach around to the back support girdle bolts. wont be able to do this until i get the support girdle which is on the way
Welded to the top of your mount and running directly up the top of the housing, then through bolted just before the cover flange. You would have to drill a hole or two through to the inside of the housing. The top would be the most important, and would be less likely to cause you any leaks.
is there enough clearance in the inside of the housing to run a bolt? im most worried about the bolt failing and falling into the gears/fluid, or there just not being enough room for the head of the bolt with all the moving parts.
thats kinda what i was thinking... didnt really wanna do the bottom of the housing but the top would be alil easier
Nice designs. I wish you guys were round when I did mine a couple of years ago. Either of yours look stronger that the sandwitch design I used. I might have to revise it now that I have a plasma cutter.
Nice job.
kory
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Just make sure you position it so it's not directly over the ring gear and you'll be fine. A good qualit grade 8 bolt and lock nut would not give you any trouble(use good loc-tite and the primer). - You could drill and tap the housing, so as to have nothing to be able to come loose inside; I'm not sure it would be thick enough to hold well on it's own, but if you tightened a bolt down from the outside a nut on the inside could then be like a jamb nut, thus being very secure.
you guys both need to seek some further education.
its a SAWZALL!
tomato TO MATO... same $HIT! everyone has a diff way of calling/describing something, u must not be a real mechanic... never heard anyone call it a SAWZALL, most abbreviate it to sawzaw.
by the way i googled sawzaw and thats the pic i posted.
