Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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hey guys when i was changing my rear end fluid, i found a nasty suprise waiting for me, all four spider gears are busted and the magnet was full of flakes...(it's a gm 10 bolt, with the 3.73 ratio and posi), i was thinking of upgrading the diff to a 12 bolt (in case of future engine mods down the road), but idk how much work it is, is there a guide or how-to about putting a 12 bolt in a 3rd gen f-body? is it very difficult? should i just rebuild the stock rear end?
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1984 Chevy Camaro Z28 L69 T-5 T-Top
1992 Chevy Cavalier VL 2.2l I-4 TH-125 3 Spd Auto
2006 Yamaha BWs 3.02 Cu In...
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Your better off just rebuilding your rear untell you have the need for replacing it, I'am sure you can get most of your parts from a junk yard.
__________________ 89 T-Top GTA 5.7L T-56
ATI procharger D1sc, AS&M SS runners, accel base, 58mm TB, 42Ibs injectors, full exhaust, McLeod Street twin, Moser ford 9" with 3.70, 18" Boyd Smoothie II wheels 8"/10", DIY prom with code59.
Parts to be installed: AFR 195 eliminator heads, zz9 cam, Stainless works LT 1 3/4 headers, Mufflex 4" catback
That's a Governor Lock differential. You need to get it out of there and replace it with a new Eaton Posi. The Governor Lock is a time bomb, and the Auburn is a metal grinder. The Eaton Posi is the only one that I can recommend with confidnence.
it is the gov lock style i remember those pieces...i'm guessing i should go with the cone style posi? i'm most likely going to have this rear rebuilt as it seems a 12 bolt is too much work/too expensive thanks for the help btw
Don't use the cone type. Get an Eaton. The Eaton is much better. It is rebuildable (Auburn is not), it can be tuned to fit your needs (Auburn can't), and it will last much longer (Auburn may or may not last). The Eaton is well worth the extra money.
