Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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I just had a 600HP built 700R4 put into my 85 Z28.
At the same time, I had a 2800 - 3200 stall converter put in, but no one ever warned me of the problems running that type of stall without the proper accessories, not even the builder of the transmission.
Right now I am only driving the car to and from work, because It's a straight shot down the interstate and if I hold 3rd gear all the way and drive about 80MPH the whole way (Everyone down here speeds on the interstate even the cops), I can get it to work and back without it drastically overheating. I know the optimum range of a 700R4 is 150 - 180F, but the average running temp for this thing is 210 - 220. If I'm swift about the entrance and exit ramps, I can get there without breaking 210. Tonight on the way home I stupidly took the wrong entrance ramp, leaving me stuck in traffic for 15 minutes. I looked up to see the pillar pod reading 240F and I was like $^&! and pulled over to let it cool for awhile.
My question is, what is the most balls out, beast of a transmission cooler out there (For a reasonable price)? I'd prefer something that comes with all the fittings, braided steel lines and preferrably a fan on the cooler. I was told to go by gross vehicle weight and from the heat it was generating, get at least a 30,000 - 36,000 cooler. But the highest I've found so far is 30,000 pounds. Alot of these cooler kits look promising, but don't even identify the GVW.
Another question I had was on a lockup override switch. How exactly do they work? I am vaguely familiar with the operation of the TCC, and also interested in a lockup override kit that doesn't require dropping the pan. I was thinking of installing a floor switch to control the lockup.
Is.that a derale? What model number and GVW? I read its best to install before the radiator, but for me I think I might need it after.
Yes it is a Derale #15850 and rated at 30K GVW. It is WAY overkill for the vette but it was perfect for what I needed. As you can see I am running it in the rear of the car for space reasons. durring auto-x it was not uncommon to see 230-240+ so when I had the trans gone through I added this cooler. Now when it gets to 180 and the fan kicks on it will only climb 1 or 2 degrees (estimating from gauge) before it starts to drop. It will drop and run around 160 if I am abusing it. Normal driving (2600 converter) the fan will only come on if it sits in traffic for a long time or it is very hot out. Well worth the 200 bucks
What all does it come with? I'm looking for a kit with the mounting hardware and prefer braided steel lines.
The 2800 stall is great for the tpi you can really feel it when you get on it but it generatesa a lot of heat.
It comes with everything you need to hook it up however it is just rubber line. You will have to buy 2 female fittings (already has the male AN fittings on cooler) and the hose. I have never seen one that came with the braided line.
I am running a SR and the 2600 converter is really tight that I am running. Too much converter and too loose of a converter makes it a little tricky to keep the rear end in check coming out of the corners under hard throttle.
What Mfg converter did you put in? My PI Vigillante had no issues with heat, but then again it was an $800 converter. I just put in a used engine cooler I got from http://www.musclemotorsports.com/. It has 1/2-NPT threads that you can put whatever fittings you wanted to it. I put pushon AN fittings on my hoses, and AN adaptors in the cooler. Finally, use a good synthetic fluid in the trans.. (Mobil-1 ATF) It will remain stable to 300deg and not breakdown like a std fluid.
Don't get me wrong the derale looks nice but its already a little steep and I have to buy seperate fittins?!
That one says push on fittings not sure if they're any good.
I dont see why that one wont work. You only need to buy special fittings if you want to run braded hose. If you want to run Aeroquip you will have to buy fittings and lines with any cooler you buy.
I ran hard line from the trans to the back of the car then aero from there back (about 3 feet).
Also note the hi pressure in a trans deos not extend into the cooler lines, the fluid in the line is not high psi. So you can use regular brass hose barb fittings, and braided hose with hose clamp and it will work just fine. You can buy clamp covers that look like fancy an fitting but saving you a bunch of cash.
If hose clamps can keep your coolant system hoses from blowing off, not gonna happen to the trans.
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I just had a 600HP built 700R4 put into my 85 Z28.
At the same time, I had a 2800 - 3200 stall converter put in, but no one ever warned me of the problems running that type of stall without the proper accessories, not even the builder of the transmission.
Are you running a lockup converter? If not then it will run very hot. And it would be best to have the transmission unmodified to be able to go back to a TCC and run a converter that locks up.
[quote=RBob;4217383]Are you running a lockup converter? If not then it will run very hot. And it would be best to have the transmission unmodified to be able to go back to a TCC and run a converter that locks up.
RBob.[
I am running a lockup converter but don't have a manual tcc kit installed. What would you recommend to be a good kit that doesn't require dropping the pan?/QUOTE]
It is about the export version of controlling a TCC without an ECM.
The very minimum you can put a switch to the wire that used to come from the ECM and ground it to lock up the TCC. If the ALDL connector is still in place can use the TCC pin on that to pick up this location.
Note that having this work will depend upon having the brake pedal switch still in place along with the TCC solenoid and wiring in the transmission. It is easy enough to try it and see if it works.
Grounding pin F of the ALDL connector will lock up the TCC. It will unlock with the brake pedal depressed.
Just need to put a switch on that pin to ground and flip it to maintain lockup.
RBob.
I was thinking of putting in a floor switch about where the clutch pedal would be if this was a manual trans. Would you forsee any problem wiring this switch to the F pin on the ALDL and using the floor switch to lock/unlock the converter at will for daily driving?
So if I go ahead and do this, do I risk damaging anything or will worst case scenario be I stall the engine?
I'm thinking the converter would need to be unlocked every time you get to a stoplight, because as soon as you lift you foot from the brake to give it some gas the converter would lock and stall the engine.
RBob, I ust went out on my lunch break and jumpered pins F and A. I could have sworn I noticed a bit more pep going in reverse, but I noticed no change in the stall speed once I hit second gear. What gives?
Uh, more pep in reverse? As for the TCC not locking up, there are many items that will prevent it. Blown fuse, missing fuse, misadjusted brake pedal switch, brake pedal switch disconnected, wire to the trans broken, connector at trans not connected, transmission modified to work w/o a TCC (which covers a lot of individual items). No clutch in the torque convertor...
