I just need somed tips on removing the trans with the engine in the car.

Get the car up and level. I prefer to back it up onto ramps then jack the front level w/ jack stands.

Remove the distributor cap so when you unbolt the transmission crossmember and lower the tranny a few inches (so you can get to the top bolts) it doesn't hit the firewall. You'll also want to remove the electrical connections that go to the distributor.

First thing you need to do is take out the 3 torque converter bolts. Pull the engine around by hand as you take them off individually.

Watch the tailshaft and dipstick hole, fluid will pour out of both if the tranny is not kept level.

2-3 feet of extensions and a 6 point socket to get the top bellhousing bolts. I stripped a top bellhousing bolt because it was stubborn and I was using a 12 pt socket, not a good experience.

Use a jack to lower the tranny. The center of gravity it toward the front of the pan so thats where you want the jack as you lower it.

700R4 with fluid and torque converter weighs almost 200lbs so BE CAREFUL. Get yourself a good tranny pullin' rope so once you get it out so you can drag it around.


This isn't a step-by-step list because I left out most the basics. These are just, as you requested, tips.

It would be better to drain it first (either drop the pan or suck it out from the dipstick) and plug the output. They make plastic plugs for a couple bucks that will keep the fluid inside.

I agree, definitely look into this.

I have a T5, but I made a huge puddle of ATF when I dropped mine. I *thought* I had all the fluid out, but I was off by about a quart and a half. And IIRC, the 700R4's hold more than my little T5 does.

If I can suggest, and this is more than just "IMO" and more fact. You are better off draining the transmission before removing it, as much as possible. It makes it easier to remove with less fluid spilling, and if the tranny tips to one side, you dont have the inertia or whatever, of the fluid tipping to one side giving it extra momentum to fall over off of a jack.

It really... really helps to have the car at least 24-27" inches in the air if you are using a full size jack underneath. I figured 6 inches for the jack, and everything else for the transmission. The last thing you want to do, is have the car as high as you can go and then go #$%#$&@ @#$%, and @#$@#**%^&% and find out you are catching the top of the transmission on the frame up front by a 1/2".

If you have to use jacks that ratchet up, do not feel safe with that alone. Try to block up the front tires, and rear tires so that if the jack gives out, your face does not become the secondary jack. Remember to unblock the rear tires and let the rear hang when you go to remove the torque arm, don't take the chance of a sprung torque arm hitting you or causing the car to move on the jack stands or ramps. I used 3 inch pipe 1/4" wall, with angle iron legs, and a smaller sleeve inside the 3" pipe with 1/2" all thread going through the 2 pipes in 1 spot, and going through the outside pipe directly under the top pipe. Worked like a charm, they could hold a large truck.

Oh and final recommendation? you never know how loose the torque converter is on the input shaft of a transmission. Once you get it down enough, I recommend wrapping some duct tape around the torque converter and the transmission. You don't want the converter to drop, it could cause brazed fins to break, fluid on your floor and a sore face.

I hope you all got some smiles out of this reply and some useful information


EDIT: and don't drink beer or Jack Daniels while performing the removal or installation of a transmission. This includes any and all variants of beer such as Molson's XXX and Evan Williams Bourban, how can you beat $12 for a bottle of that? Even tastes better than the Jack Daniels available now. Thats IMO

One more tip, stay calm and keep looking for the next bolt to loosen up. I just pulled my TH350 in 3 hours. the car was also on jack stands. Good luck!!

Definately, and it helps if you unbolt the trans crossmember with a jack under the tranny, let it down a few inches and then use your extensions and wobble to get at the top transmission bolts, makes it a lot easier doing it that way. Oh, and remember to take the distributor cap off, and watch the oil sender when your engine tips. Don't forget to remove the fluid lines as soon as you have access to them.

The fact that I'm changing the trans dose not bother me a bit. I change a trans in a cup car and other things like that in no time. Just get to the one dang bolt on the trans is the only thing thats going to give me fits.

Which bolt?

I'm guessing the bolt I forgot to mention in the first place, that Darkshot mentioned first Cup cars are fun. In that case though, I would suggest some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on the different bolts that have to come out, wouldn't hurt to spray that on the fluid line fittings. Have a great weekend

Sorry for the double post.

If you feel like taking a few more wires loose on the drivers side unhook the harness and pull it out of the way (to the pass side) so you can get to the upper bell bolts with a ratchet wrench. Their is two bolts on each side up top, & from the drivers side you can get all four with that huge mass of wire out of the way. Makes life easy. Had my trans out in just over an hour after it was put on jack stands. I didn,t spill much fluid, since the trans was never tilted. Never worth it IMO to fight with the pan under the car. You get spills, & drips just the same. If anything its more of a mess and pain to take the pan off. Trust me. Don't do it. Maybe with a overhead lift but not while you are under the car with jack stands.

It should come out fine we just put it in a few months ago. I've just heard people talking about cutting holes in the floor to get to that bolt. But the darkshot wasn't a darkshot but nothing in a race situation just go to school down here to work on them, lanier tech double woot. But thank for all the advice I heard some crazy things people have done to take it out of the third and fourth gen cars.