Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
If your powerband starts at 2000 then a 2500 stall is for street/strip and a 3000 stall for full race. The converter always needs to compliment the camshaft.
The advertised duration of 280/288 would probably handle 2800-3000 for street/strip although that could be pushing it.
Rated stall speed is only an estimate. A converter that's rated for 2400 may stall at 2000 or 2600+ depending on how much torque is put into it. The only way to know a converter's true stall speed is with a transbrake.
__________________
Hardtail Racing
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.029@150.45 (at altitude)
Theoretical sea level performance 8.623@157.05
My current SLP TC seems to only hold to around 1800rpm.
Would it be advantageous to look into a better quality Lock-up like a Vigilante rated 2600-2800 then?
My current SLP TC seems to only hold to around 1800rpm.
Would it be advantageous to look into a better quality Lock-up like a Vigilante rated 2600-2800 then?
How do you know what it holds at? How can I test mine?
As Stephen said, the only true way is with a transbrake. I'm only estimating mine is ~1800.
One less accurate way is measured when holding the brakes and running the engine against the locked brakes until a tire rotation.
Another is to launch at WOT and observe the engine RPM reached at launch. This is referred to as flash stall. Wheel spin and the short time allowed for RPM observation makes this pretty inaccurate as well.
As Stephen said, the only true way is with a transbrake. I'm only estimating mine is ~1800.
One less accurate way is measured when holding the brakes and running the engine against the locked brakes until a tire rotation.
Another is to launch at WOT and observe the engine RPM reached at launch. This is referred to as flash stall. Wheel spin and the short time allowed for RPM observation makes this pretty inaccurate as well.
Maybe look into an edge 2900 stall like I have. Seems like mine is doing its job pretty well.
i would go 3000 stall. i bought mine on ebay from "******* performance" its been holing up well now for three years (strip only) l priced one a few months ago for the 700r4 it was $300 for non-lockup and $500 for lockup
What Pro Charger are you using here? And how much horsepower is it going to add? How do you drive? Conservative? Moderate? Moderately aggressive? or aggressively? Let me know, and I will help you out on the right stall here. Dana
Thanks for the replies guys. Just doing a shopping list for this winter and wanted to get an idea what to put aside.
Dana - Glad you stopped in as well.
It's the P1SC, 3-core intercooler and have had it on for over a year.
Have not dyno'd since the upgrade, but I guess could estimate ~425 flywheel hp based on 109 track mph.
I drive conservative-moderate-aggressive depending on the circumstances, lol.
Being streetable is a must, but I would like to make sure the TC compliments the new cam / power output to see an improvement over this older style SLP TC.
With the Pro Charger, moderate driving, (230/236) camshaft and 3.27's, I would go with no more than a 2,800 rpm stall. Super chargers do not need a lot of stall. If you want to find out the stall here after the TC is installed, you could add the governor lockout spring for the test, then remove it afterward. Only takes the reomoval of the governor cover and governor. This allows the transmission to take off in a higher gear. I will supply you with the gasket and spring. If you want this, let me know? Dana
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; 08-15-2009 at 06:47 PM.