1b rock

hey, new here but glad to find a site for my car. i have a 1990 irocz with a 350 tpi. i have modified the car very little and it seems to be a good running car to me pretty much bone stock and runs 9.20s at 76mph which is pretty good but not fast, YET! i have a set of edelbrock headers, im removing the smog pump and will be soon spraying 100shot on the car.. i would like to have a lockup converter that would stall around 2500, this seems like it would be a good rpm considering the cars limited reving nature. any advice on where to get aconverter or who to talk to thanks

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ed o

I don't know where you're from, and how much money you'll spend. Most stall converters are more expensive than stock. approx 100 more. expect approx 200 plus. the stall you say can be very streetable with what you describe. I wouldn't go higher personally for what you say.

1b rock

new to a lockup converter, ive had stalls in 350turbos but they never seam to stall what they are supposed to... just didnt know if anyone had been through this.

customblackbird

lockup converter isnt any diff as far as locking up than a non lockup. only thing diff is that in 4th gear it will feel like another shift and your RPMs will drop basically mating the crank to the DS.

to keep it steetable a 2400 stall would be nice and would help launch the car but theres alot u have to consider. rear gears, are you gona go from say a 3.23 or a 2.73 to a 3.73 or 4.10? whats the cars intended nature? are u gona swap intakes down the road? what kind of power are you gona make down the road?

I ask bc converters is not something you wanna buy over again say like a yr from now. they cost easily 300-600$. if your gona daily drive it then a 12" converter with a 2400 stall will be good... and u can race in on the wkds. any higher than a 2400-2500 stall and ur gona want to get a smaller converter like a 10" or 9" also depends on if your gona run nitrous down the road etc. you really need to match it to your HP goal and rear gear and car weight. taller gears would need a higher stall, most stock or around stock converters cant handle over 350hp. which is where u step it up to a 300-400$ converter like a hughes or something. i wouldnt bother with B&M or TCi they are poo.

if your gona make less than 450hp and want to drive it on the street alot i would look into a hughes anything higher than 450hp id look into a 10" from vigilante etc.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-22-25LHD/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-22-25L/

1b rock

gona try to keep the gears for now tryin to make the car all i can untill i put in an ls swap, its on the engine stand and dont plan on doing it for a while because the tpi runs realy good so far.. plan on running the same trans with an ls swap. priced a converter from a shop locally. he recemended his 10" 2600. he says it will footbrake 2600 and flash 3000-3200 for around $450

customblackbird

thats a nice strip converter but i think its still alil high for a street car or daily driver. a 10" converter is way more efficent than a 12"... think of the 12" as a cast iron flex plate on the back of the engine and not imagine the 10" as a aluminum one.

thats not a bad converter and the price is not bad either... wat are the internals? brazed fins? beefed up hub? nitrous ballooning plate? anything? foot brake means if u hold the brakes it wont push through the brakes untill 2600 but flashing to 3000-3200 means its essentially a 3000-3200 stall. you also got to remember that converters are rated at a certain ftlb for there stall.... so say this 10" converter is rated at 3000-3200 stall at 400ftlbs... if your motor is putting out 450ftlbs its going to increase the stall of the converter... not sure how much could be a few hundred like 3400 instead of 3200 but it could be alot depending on ur HP/ftlb of the engine. Same goes for lower, same sinario its rated at 400ftlbs... if u make 350ftlbs then it will stall sooner and at a lower RPM. More tq causes the converter to slip more.

you really dont need more than a 2400/2500 stall. mines 2900 flash but i shouldnt need more than 2500/2600 to get out of a light but its alil much for the street thats cuz i drive it hard and plan on a bit of track time. the higher stall would make it not so much fun to drive around town lol at the street light u step on the gas and u gotta get up to like 2800-3000 to get the car moving. god forbid u mash the go pedal on the highway and it downshifts and flashes to 3200 lol ur @ss ends gona swing around and light the tires

1b rock

do you run a linelock or roll control if so what will it stall using it vs foot brake

customblackbird

im not running a line lock. my friend does on his stang. a line lock and foot brake are essentially the same thing(depending on how much brake u apply)... foot braking will cause pressure at the rear brakes where a line lock will only lock the front tires. a line lock will allow the rear tires to break loose faster since it only locks the fronts, rears are free. foot braking will hold the rears alil bit before the engine overcomes the tires and rear brakes. ive seen some ppl brake the tires at the starting line with line locks causing hooking issues when the lights turn since theyre already spinnin.

if i was to foot brake(depending on how hard i hold the brakes) it would stall at 2600-2900 most likely since thats its flash stall speed. i personally dont like line locks but they are great for burnouts since the fronts can lock and the rears can just spin all day long. they are good for warming up in the water boxes at the track. but foot braking will do fine.

most ppl just mash the pedal when the light turns and leave it in drive(or 3rd). some like to foot brake and get some RPMS and **** manually. really depends on how the car hooks. i would prob just set it up for foot breaking and do some runs and see how it works.. u can always add the line lock.