Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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Well, I pretty much bought a 89 maro for $85, I have a problem though, its rather rusty underneath.
I was curious if there was a way to fix the arm on the driver side, that leads from the rear axle to the frame i believe. Where it was rusted through at the end of the arm that mounts to the frame/body. If you run it hard it makes a hell of a racket and hops underneath and beats, and I was wondering if there is anything i can do about this. Help Please? I'll be able to take some photos of this tomorrow and load them up.
Took it to a shop today, it is indeed the lower control arm, but it seperated from the body. (I can see carpet) They said take it to a body shop. Any type of DIY I can help this with? Heres a couple pics
LG4 305ci 4bbl motor, 2.5" Cherry Bomb Extreme muffler- side exit exhaust, Cragar 15x7 Black D Window wheels (4" backspacing), Cooper Cobra Radial GT tires (P235/60R15), 36mm hollow front sway bar with wonder bar, 24mm rear sway bar, Energy Suspension endlinks and Guldstrand bushings, Edelbrock Elite 4222 air cleaner with K&N filter, FF Dynamics 16" Cyclone electric fan, Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Fan Controller, custom fixed headlight conversion with 5000K HIDs and Silverstar Ultra H7 bulbs, Pilot PL-362W driving lights with Hella 100W H3 bulbs, Deka Intimidator 9A78DT AGM battery
eh, I was more or less hoping to find a partial rear driver side floor pan torque box, if anyone has a decent site for that? A lot of the rust underneath is surface, some not so much. We just replaced the sway bar linkages & bushings (helped the ride a LOT)
any other suggestions than junking it? Runs real good. Can't say i have the money to find another f body lol
attached a few pics, it sat outside for 5+ months without going anywhere, finally fixed it and gave it a well deserved bath, looks much better now
(Plus the ignition key for my white one starts up the red one, haha)
Last edited by Chrisman622; 09-22-2009 at 06:19 AM.
Hard to tell from the second pic, but it looks like your rear "frame" rail partially missing. If you do start driving this more watch for fuel leaks due to vibration shaking your rusty fuel lines apart.
alright, thanks bm, anyone else have some ideas or websites for floor pans/ torque boxes that i can weld back in there?
__________________ Mines on the far right, Also pictured is a white 88 IROC-Z 350 stock convertible, and a red 88 RS built 350 conversion, 350+ hp TH400 tranny and B&M shifter
classic industries has replacenemt pans, but they are expensive, so does hawks i believe. I dont know, however, if that mount in question is part of the floor pan. You will most likely have to cut the parts from a doner can in a junkyard.
You are look at a LOT of work to fix that part. Its not as easy as just welding a new LCA mount on.
__________________ "i thought the plan was fool proof?"
"fool proof, yes. idiot proof, no."
