so i did a ton of reading and discovered mixed reviews with regard to using my 3rd gen pedals or using 4th gen pedals....that either or would work, but may have quirks so i chose to first try the 3rd gen set, since it was already in place.... i have the typical high engagement point, but seems to fully engage/disengage, and with pedal about 2/3s to the floor i seem to be out of travel, now also at 2/3s to the floor something stationary is making contact with something that is spinning....... such as the clutch fork and the pressure plate i presume based on my own reasoning and reading that the 3rd gen pedal produces more throw than 4th gen pedals. i imagine i will be putting the 4th gen pedals in to correct this problem? my concern there is that i've seen mentioned that there can be issues with the master cylinder rod binding.... any truth to this? if someone could back up my reasoning with their own results it would make me feel alot better about contorting myself to get under the dash again... other than this issue i am a satisfied owner of a 6 speed 3rd gen now, but the factory shifter has GOT to go, its a piece of monkey stuff.....or course i sorta figured that to be the case....... im off to ebay to locate a replacement

anyone?? promise i wont cry if you back me up and it still isnt right

Is it a howling/grinding upon engagement? Only when cold??

definately not what i would call a howl,

you can here is clicking or hitting and feel the pedal shake and it does it any time i try to go to the floor with the clutch pedal, i had the car on stands and was able to keep the tires stopped in gear before i reached the grinding vibrate the pedal point....

with my t5 i could push the pedal clear to the carpet, now with the 3rd gen pedal and t56 setup i cant get anywhere near the carpet...

like i said something that spins is hitting something that doesnt.. i have the 4th gen pedals sitting next to the tool box and depending on what i need to do this weekend they may find their way into the car..

i guess this post is a bit pointless, in that i know what im gonna try, but also it has a point since im trying to confirm my diagnosis

noise issue is resolved, went ahead and swapped the pedals out for the 4th gen set everything seems happy now

still need to get a nuetral safety switch working again, as its jumped for now but i want it functional, along with wiring the reverse lockout on the trans

Question for you if you don't mind

What is your engagement hight now with the 4th gen pedals and how far up does your clutch pedal come up from the floor? I'm using the 4th gen pedals and original 4th gen (used) hydraulics. Mine engages at about 2/3's up, BUT, I have very little throw in the pedal. The pedal only comes up about even with the brake pedal. The pedal is close to hitting a dash support bracket at full travel up, but not quite, and the clutch master rod does extend as far as it wants to. I thought everything was fine, but my brother's clutch pedal in his 4th gen LS1 car (same pedals and master) has a TON more travel. Can't figure out what might be wrong

clutch pedal at full up is similar to what you describe, near even with the brake pedal, and as such a short amount of travel, car begins to move probably 1 inch off the floor, and is fully engaged at probably 2/3s also.... this clutch is a stock replacement and only has about 150-200 miles on it mostly highway.

no idea how an lt1 clutch should compare to an ls1 clutch, as i've never been in one, i believe i read that the pedal set is the same, although you gotta remember the ls1 car uses a hydraulic throwout bearing instead of a slave and fork so it is likely quite different, as well as being a pull style vs a push style,

I wish there was an LT1 car around here to try out. At first, my thinking was the same as yours... the difference must be in the throwout bearing. But I can't figure out why the LS1 car has more throw, the pedal looks to be the same, the master is the same, the master rod stick-out length is the same. My clutch pedal comes out all the way, and depresses fully against the safety switch. There's no way to get more throw, it just doesn't add up. Since your car seems to be the same as mine, there must actually be a difference in the geometry of the LS1 clutch pedal.

Now I also cant figure out why other people like to shorten the rod. They must be cramming the pedals in there differently and getting the geometry a little off, I dunno.

Anyway, thanks for your response, now I'm not concerned I may have a problem

I used a 1994 t56 and pedals from the dealer for a 94 camaro and the pedal feels just like its supposed to. It starts to engage just as u start to bring the pedal back up.

Thats how it should be. (small amount of travel, almost even with the brake pedal).

The LS1 car has a completely different clutch, so you cant compare.

im guessing what they acheive by doing this, is the ability to use the 3rd gen pedals without the risk of over extending the clutch fork like i was having....

if you shorten the rod enough it may be possible to hit the floor or a stop with the clutch pedal BEFORE the master cylinder see's enough travel to create the issue i had.....this is the only reason that comes close to making sense out of shortening the rod, other than just to tailor the position of the pedal to the drivers feel... no matter how you slice it shortening the rod doesnt really solve anything, it just kinda hides it.

im thrilled with mine using the 4th gen pedals, my shifter should be here by the weekend and then i will be able to get after it without fearing not finding a gear

I'd say you are misinformed on this. I shortened my rod and made it adjustable and got proper free play, and a proper engagement point. Pretty obvious you haven't tried this mod yet. My car was a stick and I did not have any misalignment issues at all to deal with. I have a set of 4th gen pedals, but this mod worked so well why go to the trouble of swapping pedals out when it works perfectly as is?