I just did a motor swap on my 91 LO3 which is now a carbed 355. The carb is an edelbrock 1406. Is my TV cable adjusted properly? My mechanic says it is and it is hooked up correctly ( noticed he tied it in a knot to take up slack I guess) . He tells me that this is fine and it will keep all line pressures correct. I don't think it is , however I am by no means a mechanic and no expert on cars I just read alot and try to learn as I go. I just want to double check and make sure he is correct before I end up screwing up my trans.

From a diffrent angle

1) You need the TV cable geometry adjuster - you can't simply put a TV cable stud on that stock carb lever, it just doesn't work.

You need this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-376710/

2) There's no need for a knot in the cable - maybe he thinks that his knot will take up some slack present from not using the corrector, but it's just as much about geometry as it is about cable length. Effectively your "mechanic" has ruined that cable, and it needs replaced now with one that is not bent all to hell. Get a new TBI cable and replace that.

I read your other post about driving the car home. I'm sorry you paid for this type of 'work' - although I see no real work, just chain-jerking. Until you get this corrected, don't drive this car, as these tranny's can burn up in literally 1 block if that cable isn't geometrically correct AND adjusted properly.

There's no way any respectable "mechanic" would threaten the integrity of a customer's transmission by rigging such junk as that. That's why no one works on my car but me - the world is full of idiots And at least if I screw it up, I'm not paying labor!

Would this bracket work?http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SU...3/?image=large

Summit part number:

SUM-700203

Is the TV cable salvagable, keep in mind it is not adjusted just unknotted.

The Summit part will work.
That kink looks bad & may affect trans shifting so you may want to take camaronewbie's tip & get another cable.??.

Well I won't be buying another cable, he will have to correct his error and pay for and replace the cable that he damaged. The Cable came in in good shape, the mechanic knotted it after I had told him several times I did not think it would work and that I was concerned with the line pressure. I trusted he did knew what he was doing since he is a "preformance engine and trans " shop in bussiness for over 20 years and he builds race engines.

To think I was apprehensive about attempting this myself because I was afraid I would have screwed up and ended up paying double tofix my mistakes. Well let me tell you when i got home and started to uncover these things and saw that the car was not running I felt physically sick after dropping all that money it was a complete slap in the face.

I appreciate all your help and have one more question.

I am able to get the Holley bracket 20-121 for FREE!!!, if it would work I would like to use it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HL...1/?image=large

BTW: I KNOW HE USED A HOLLEY 20- 95 BRACKET

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-95/

Thanks guys I really appreciate it. I will keep you all posted and post pics of the entire engine once I get everything straightend out , it actually looks very nice cosmetically.

They are different.
I don't have my Jegs or Summit book with me here @ work.
One is longer than the other.If you can compare them you can see the difference.
I can let you know tonight but it'll be after 8 pm.

they are both listed for the app, i dont see why the summit brand one wont work, it looks just like the one i used to have. It even says in the description its for edelbrock carbs and 700r4 trans. Cane get any more specific than that.

If your mechanic put a knot in the cable, he is a hack, make him replace the cable then take the car elsewhere from now on.

That is fine I will be talking to the mechanic tommorow. I am also trying to figure out if the Holley 20 -95 bracket will harm anything or if that bracket also needs to be removed and replaced with another such as the TCI-376700 and the TCI-376710, which I suspect it does. I am trying to have all my ducks in a row when i speak to him tommorow.

Holley # 20-95 is bigblock//smallblock with Holley type carb.
Holley # 20-121 is for Holley carb geom. correction.
Summit # Sum700203 is for Edelbrock carb geom. correction.
TCI # 376710 is for Edelbrock carb geom. correction.

Give the free Holley a try- won't cost anything right?

(Edit)
Check the "Application" section on the parts @ the Summit site.
Most of these parts are applcation specific and are not universal//interchangeable.
There is a lenght//width diff between Edelbrock//Holley geom.correctors.IDK off hand which is which.

I would definitely get a new cable - not only is it kinked, but it looks too long as well - may be the pic angle or something, but maybe that's why he knotted it to begin with. I'd also install the new cable MYSELF, to make sure it's right. Maybe ... he doesn't have it connected in the tranny properly, and that's why it loks so long - it can be a tad tricky to install in the tranny and keep it in place long enough to get the bolt that holds it secured. But, if he didn't disconnect it from the tranny at all, and that's your original cable from your LO3 motor, then it might be fine once it gets adjusted - try adjusting it (after you get the corrector) and see what/where it's at then.

May be easier to just get the corrector, adjust the cable correctly, and forget having to deal with that "mechanic" anymore - he'll never admit fault, it'll make you mad, and you'll end up ding it yourself anyway. Sometimes it's best to say "lesson learned" and walk away - the injustice sucks, but at least there's peace of mind that you found TGO, and corrected the issue before your tranny went south.

Again, hope it all works out for ya!

I looked for my older Summit//Jegs catalogs. As yet I can't find the one that shows the diff between Holley & Edelbrock _correctors._ Call the Summit//Jegs tech to verify they are diff. The _brackets_ are diff.

I never said the Summit #sum-70023 wouldn't work--I said it would.That's their Edelbrock geom. corrector.

Summit catalog Mar-Apr 2009 page 23 shows the same part #sum-700203

Summit catalog Mar-Apr 2009 pge 208
Part # TCI-376700== TV cable bracket- $26.08
Part # TCI-376710== TV geom corrector-$42.88
*NOTE-Complete assembly requires bracket and corrector*
I got this directly from the Summit catalog Mar-Apr 2009.

Jegs current catalog--page 72
TCI ThrottleValve corrector
Part # 890-376710== $34.99

Jegs current catalog--page 141
700R4/200R4 TV cable bracket
Part # 890-376700==$28.99

When you call the tech,tell them if you are using a spacer the size if you are.
These are not your only options...I'm sure ther are other companies making brackets & correctors.
If I can get the camaera to transfer, I'll photo my Holley set up. Maybe someone can post Edelbrock set up for comparison.??.

DO NOT DRIVE in this condition! They are right-trans will self destruct!!
PM coming your way!!
Summit tech--1-330-630-0240
Ask for Tom. He's there til 8 pm Eastern time.

Well the mechanic had the car towed to his shop he is supposed to correct the problems, i'll keep you posted should know something more within the next day or so.

Got the car back today, he fabbed up a bracket for the TV cable and put the GEo corrector on for me, said he adjusted the TV cable correctly, told me that i could adjust it if I wanted to for firmer/ weaker shirfs. I disagree with that from everything I have read the TV is not to adjust the shift points but to set them.

Maybe I am incorrect on this point but that is what i have learned throug reading about the 700r4 TV cable. I think I am going to take it to a trans shop for s second opinion and see if they will hook up a pressure gauge to it. It appears to be taught at wide open throtle, it just seems as though it shift very lightly into overdrive and it seems like it takes a little long to shift from 1 to 2 ( just a little nothing drastic).

Maybe it's me and it is adjusted properly, is there anyway to be sure without hooking a pressure gauge up to the trans?

BTW:

Thanks to t-top havoc for getting me some info that I needed. I figure I will share some part numbers with you that others may find helpful if they are going through the same thing

PART NUMBER:

LOKKD2700HT - Lokar Stainless Steel Hi-Tech Kickdown Kits
LOKSRK4000 - Throttle cable bracket
LOKTC1000HT - Throttle cable
SUM-700203 - Geometry Corrector

Maybe they're having a good day & not charge for checking/adjusting it. lol
Hope you enjoy driving when you get it back!

P.S.--
For anyone interested--on page 131 Jegs current catalog,bottom right is a picture of the 2 styles of geo correctors, these 2 are made by B&M.

The shift to overdrive will usually be subtle, as by then you don't have alot of RPM's and thus a softer shift. (Unless you're looking to get a ticket, 'cause with your foot in the carb, you should be at 70mph long before a 4th gear shift)

You can "tweak" the TV cable if needed, but I'd never recommend more than 1 "click" in either direction from the normal adjustment.

I need this info as well for my engine swap so did anyone ever find out if the holley brackets will work, also does anybody know a good bracke for an edelbrock carb for throttle etc.

Any bracket you get for the throttle/TV cable that is good and sturdy is fine, brand your choice. I happened to use an Edelbrock bracket b/c it was cheap, chrome, and very sturdy built (doesn't flex at all with throttle/tv cable pressure). But I did have to modify it some (drilled an extra hole so I could adjust position relative to carb a tad more). This is the one I used: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8030/

The TV corrector bracket (I assume since they list for different carbs) needs to be specifically for your carb (ie Edlebrock carb needs Edelbrock corrector, etc.). Summit has their own brand of TV correctors now, about $21

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700203/

Search "TV Cable Corrector" at summit for a full listing of brands/options.

I am going to be using an edelbrock 1407 carberator, so I could use these correct. And would anyone know if this fuel line http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3090/

would work as well, I also know that this carb has a manual choke is there anything Ill need to make this work right as well I found this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1300/ would it work or would something else be needed. Please any help would be great I do not want to overlook something that might tear up something.

anyone?????

Fuel line will prolly work, with the right adapter.

Unless you're stuck in the 40s (1940s that is), go with an electric choke.

Go here for some other edumacation. http://www.tvmadeez.com/ Read the "TV System 101" series in particular.

What size motor? If it's a 350 or under, that 1407 is too big, you need a 1406 or 1405 - 750cfm is too much carb for a 350 or under, you need 600cfm.

Manual choke means you have to run a cable into the car, and pull the cable out by hand to choke the carb - way old school - pre 1970's stuff there! Electric choke is so much nicer!

Are you using in-tank pump? Get a Mallory 4309 regulator?

Yep - you can use that. Pep Boys sells the banjo fitting from Edelbrock right on the shelf for like $10 if you have one close by. They also sell the Edelbrock line just like that for about same $15 right on the shelf.

Im dropping in a 383 stroker so I know it will work, as for the choke I already bought this carb and I do not really want to buy another one just for an electric choke. I have herd that the choke really is only necessary unless you are driving in colder situations if that is the case I only drive my car in warmer month and mostly on the weekends so would I have to hook the choke up at all? And if I do I dont mind having a cable installed into my car as long as it isn't to hard I have also have heard of electric carb conversion kits I have found some for Holley carbs but not any for edelbrock does anybody know of any? Oh as for the fuel pressure regulator I knew about that as well I found one (a return style) that should work which is half the price of the mallory.

oh and camaronewbie when you said "Yep - you can use that." were you reffering to the brackets and throttle cable adaptor?

Oh I have also herd that if you do not hook up the choke at all you can pump the gas a couple of times to get the ar running is this true?

You don't have to buy a whole other carb; you just buy the choke "kit" that fits your situation for the one you have.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc