Well basically i'm looking in to getting a replacement rearend for my 89 camaros worn 3.08 clutch posi styled diff. anyways the car is now retired to just a play toy car. i'm looking for recomendations for something high strength, easy to install and still streetable... i'm fairly sure i dont want a clutch pack or cone styled posi. I'm leaning more towards a locker.... the powertrax seems like a good idea for the price and ease of installation... my only question with locking diffs other than how loud realy are they, is do they lock when you increase power tremendously while cornering? I don't quite understand their operation during a curve since they are designed to slip ,but also designed to lock one you shock them with a load.... i guess clutch style posi's like i'm use too, still have the same idea although they don't truly lock.... basically my biggest concerns are 1.) longevity 2.) how will it affect how my car corners (i still want to be able to engage both wheel slightly in a curve to get it sideways if need be). 3.) i don't want something thats violently opposed to street use (loud is ok, but how loud exactly is loud?????) 4.) how hard is it to drive compares to a plain clutch style posi, i dont want to make it a chore to drive my baby on the street.

Assuming that you have the 10 bolt rear end I doubt that you have a clutch type limited slip (posi) in your car unless someone installed it in the last few years. These cars all came with a cone type limited slip or the Governor Lock. The cone type is the Auburn and I wouldn't give you a dime for a truck load of them. The Eaton Posi is the best street/strip limited slip differential for most GM cars. It uses clutch packs instead of cones, it can be rebuilt IF it ever wears out and it can be tuned to fit your needs.

The Lock Right requires a standard differetnial case. It can not be installed in any type of limited slip differential case. You are going to have to set the backlash and bearing preload no matter what you install, so ease of installation does not apply in your case. I have a Lock Right in my truck and I've put about 130,000 miles on it with no problems. I drive it to work 54 miles every day. It does pop and click, and sometimes it can be a little jerky, but it works well. It will lock both wheels in a turn if you apply power, and when it does you better be ready for it. You have to learn how to drive with a locker. It isn't difficult, but it is a little different.

For the cost of a standard differetnial case and a Lock Right kit you could also have a new Eaton Posi. Then there is the Truetrac and Torsen. You might like a Torsen from a 4th gen LS1 car. I still prefer the Eaton over all of them for a street/strip car.

very enlightening i appreciate your help. that definetly helps a lot.

This is what I put in my 89 IROC. It could be what your looking for.
Some photos of my 10 bolt upgrade including a Eaton 28 spline posi, new 28 spline axles ,3.42 ring and pinion and LPW Ultimate cover.

Read my reply to this other recent post regarding the Powertrax unit. Really should be called "Powertrash"! Trust me dude, you'll absolutely hate it in a normal, street-driven car. I understand your point in not wanting to use a clutch style posi either since they eventually wear out. I'd recommend going with a Torsen carrier from a 98-02 4th gen rear. They use gears to accomplish the posi action, and they're totally noiseless and smooth in operation, and no clutches that'll wear out. I picked up a used one on ebay not long ago for roughly $100, so they're way affordable too. The Torsen requires 28 spline axles, so you'll need to count the splines on your axles since 89 was the transition year. GM upgraded to 28 spline axles in the f-body cars towards the end of the year, so most 89's still have the older style 26 spline axles. If you do end up needing axles, you can grab 28 spline axles out of any 90-92 3rd gen in the junkyard for cheap. Btw, the 28 spline drum axles also work just fine with 89-up PBR style rear discs too. A buddy of mine replaced his Auburn posi with the Torsen in his car, which is running a stout 383 LT1 stroker motor, and he says it's held up great.

i'm thinking i may well just go and yank out a rearend from a 4th gen car and throw in a quickie bearing and seal kit then call it a day.....

this stuff makes my heads hurt haha to many options...

safe to say i'll be staying away from the power trax unit though. If i were to buy 1 i'd probably be set on a torsen style or eaton posi by the sounds of it. thanks you very much for the info guys.

i think for the money involved it would just be easier and cheaper at this point to grab a solid 10 bolt from a later model year camaro and call it a day ..... worse comes to worse i'll swap my backing plates on the new style, throw in some bearings, seals and call it a day.

1 other question though for both the eaton and torsen style differentials do either or both of those require a friction modifier to be added like our factory diffs?

The Eaton uses the oil additive, the Torsen doesn't.

If you go with a newer 10-bolt your rear wheels are going to stick out 2 inches further on each side. Some people like this look for some reason but I think it looks really crappy unless you go with 4th gen wheels.

The Detroit Truetrac doesn't require the friction modifier either. Since the Truetrac and the Torsen both use helical cut gears to accomplish the posi action instead of clutches like an Eaton or Auburn, plain old 90 weight is all they need. I agree that just throwing in a 98-02 4th gen rear that's equipped with the Torsen and PBR disc brakes is definitely the easiest way to put a good rear in your car. As far as the tires sticking out a bit, there's been tons of pics posted on here of 3rd gens running a 4th gen rear, and the wheels really don't stick out major bad. It basically puts the outside edge of the tire about perfectly even with the lip of the wheelwell opening.