Quote:
Originally Posted by 85T/A Cant I just assemble it the way it came out? |
No, just like big gear head said, you can't just throw in the new parts. Anytime you open the cover and pull the center section it is worth checking the pattern and backlash afterwards. It doesn't take long to do the actual measurement.
In terms of special tools you need:
marking compound for measuring mesh pattern
dial indicator (magnetic base or fixed base) to measure backlash
cut-off tool to cut off the old pinion bearing (I make a cut and pull the bearing, be careful) or bearing splitter
micrometer to measure shims
pipe to press on new pinion bearing (use a pipe and hammer, be careful) or even better is an actual press
extra pinion bearing for setting pinion shim (use 80 grit sanding roll in die grinder to open ID of bearing so it slips on and off the pinion shaft).
Torque wrench to set the crush collar (in-lbs)
I always install new carrier and pinion bearings. They are like $10 - $15 each and plenty worth it.
Make sure the dial indicator is exactly or very close to perpendicular to the ring gear teeth when making a backlash measurement. Make multiple measurements for backlash to check gear run out. Check multiple spots with the marking compound.
Measure your stock carrier and pinion shims and start from their for making shim adjustments. Keep everything clean to make accurate shim measurements. Once you get the pinion shim right then slide of the ground ID bearing and "press" on the actual pinion bearing. Set the crush collar / pinion load using a in-lb torque wrench. Do an oil change at 1000 miles or less. I run redline syn. oil for the final fill.