OK, here's the deal: In "Drive" my 700r4 seems to start off in too high a gear, when I step on it from a stop, so it feels sluggish. Either this, or it starts off fine, but this start only lasts a few seconds, and it feels like the tranny shifts through the gears way too quickly....it goes.....vrrrrr...shift-shift in a matter of seconds then stays in third forever and has no power. If I stomp it only the engine responds, and the tranny won't downshift to give it that nice "kick" feeling. I get nice torque when starting in 1 and 2, and it shifts perfectly when I upshift manually, so the torque convertor isn't messed up. I just got the transgo shift kit installed, and the tv cable is adjusted properly. I thought this would fix the problem, but it didn't. The tranny acted the same way before the shift kit install. Dana at Pro-Built said it sounds like an electrical issue. What could it be? I adjusted the tps to the proper voltage. I also set the IAC correctly, jumping the pins and all that stuff. Just to make sure, do you guys have optimal tps and IAC settings? I don't know what the heck it could be. What else is there?

seems to me you have a problem with the governor. The most likely problem is the teeth of the plastic gear are mostly chewed away. To check, pull the governor out. But first pop the dizzy cap, then lower the rear of the trans. Just remove the crossmember, you may not need to undo anything else except the governor cover. Dropping the tail makes it a little easier to pull it, but much much easier to get the cover back on afterwards.

Hmmm....so the governor controls whether it downshifts when you stomp on it?

yup, had the same problem after i rebuilt my tranny a few years ago. and it did the EXACT same thing as yours. its the tv cable, its NOT adjusted properly. did you hold the button in and then move the throttle to full throttle, then let off the button??? if you did (even tho haynes says its correct) that is not adjusted properly. your gonna destroy that tranny if you dont pull that cable farther back.

that was just MY experience, so you MAY have something else going on. dont take me 100%, take me 99.9%

So, the governor DOES control if it downshifts properly when you stomp it?

When you say "pull the cable farther back," do you mean adjust the plastic part farther back on the throttle linkage, or do you mean make it somehow pull the cable further out at WOT? I am confused.

I pushed the plastic thing that surrounds the cable all the way back as far as it would go then put it at full throttle, with the gas pedal, then heard it "ratchet" out. I left it at that point, since that is as far as the throttle linkage will allow the cable to be pulled when the gas pedal is mashed down.

I don't see the point in putting it at WOT by turning the linkage itself, since the linkage goes further than what the gas pedal will allow it to go.

yeah thats what i first did too and it acted exactly like what you described. so i tinkered with the cable on several test drives.

but pulling the plastic piece "back" will make it shift later, and kick down sooner. (and opposite when pushing the plastic piece forward)...but too far back will make it too tight and possibly snap the cable. you can feel the gas pedal get a little firmer as well.

just push the button in and slide it back or forth to make adjustments and take test drives around town and just keep tweeking it a click or two until it feels right, or feels the way you want it to.

but where yours is set right now, id take it back several clicks to start with.

But then I have to be careful to not push the gas pedal all the way down, right?

Pushing the gas pedal all the way down while driving when the black piece is "too far back" won't snap the cable but instead will just cause it to "click or ratchet" back to the same setting it is at now, just like when I adjust it when the car is not running.

I don't understand the point of adjusting it-and then flooring the gas pedal will just pull the black piece back out again. I don't get it. I don't want to have to be careful of the position of the gas pedal. I just want to stomp on it and GO.

But I'll mess with it and then be careful not to stomp the pedal too far down, I guess.

Grrrrr

Any other ideas, or are we pretty much going with the governor or tv cable (which seems to be adjusted as correctly as possible right now).

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that plastic piece is not suppose to move when hitting the gas (or adjust to WOT) unless the d-shaped button is pushed. As you mentioned, it would be pointless to even adjust the cable if could move that freely. This might point to a bad/broken tv cable .

EDIT:
Upon further research from this site and others, I was mistaken on my assumption. The plastic piece is suppose to ratchet out to create proper TV cable length adjustment. The d-button mechanism only releases the plastic sleeve so it can be reset back to a starting adjustment (pulled back toward firewall/tranny)

thats exactly what i was saying too! but he pm'd me a link and that link stated differant... i got all confused too lol.

Look at step 4 b. on this page: http://tciauto.com/Instructions/File...ble_adjust.pdf


I thought the same way as da.slyboy.

What is the point if it can be pulled out of adjustment, therefore, making it looser and not able to hold pressure? I still seems tight, even after the slider pulled out a bit, but I guess it needs to be even tighter. But the darn thing will not stay in a tighter position because it clicks out and "self adjusts" as WOT gets closer, and it shifts like crapola.

I was confused about this whole "clicking" thing when I saw the TCI website's instructions about the tv cable and saw so many posts about how to adjust the darn thing by pushing the gas pedal and listening for a clicking sound.

Maybe my car needs the slider to be pushed back FARTHER than this "self adjusting" point that is reached after the slider is done clicking out when WOT is reached.

Heck with it, I am going to put a screw in the plastic part to hold the darn slider in place, like a set screw setup thingy, then I will see if "D" allows it to shift properly from a start and when the darn gas is stomped while cruising. If it works, I will then know it is the TV cable for sure then will get a new TV cable and hope the adjuster holds in place on the darn thing. If NOT, it's "set screw setup thingy" time!

For now, I'd rather have full tension on the cable and full pressure, as opposed to too little pressure.

I'll let you know if this works.

Plus, my governor valve was all cleaned up and the plastic gear end was replaced and the proper springs were installed, to match the rest of the shift kit, so I know it's not the governor. The mechanic told me it was broken and told me he got a new gear piece for the governor, so it's fixed.

It's gotta be the tv cable.

Well, I adjusted the slider back so that the cable was REALLY tight at WOT, and I used a screw to hold the slider at that adjustment.

Nothing changed.

Bump

I'm taking it to a shop. I'll let you all know what the problem is, as soon as I find out.

Update--the tranny shop drove my car and told me they are going to take out the valve body and make sure all the parts are in it and working correctly.

They are thinking it is something in the valve body, probably. The guy who installed the shift kit may have done something wrong.

They said it is as if the pressure is a "reverse" pressure or "negative pressure" rather than the positive pressure needed for the tranny to shift correctly.

im no tranny expert by no means, but to me that sounds like an expensive scam. thats how they make their money, by having a customer come in and explain the problem, then they test drive it or say "i need to take it apart, or look at it" (that alone already cost $$). so once you agree to that, your trapt with them and thier prices. because once they crack into the tranny, its too late to decide you wanna take it somewhere else, ect. and they MAY even KNOW what is wrong with it before they even lay eyes on the car!!! so by them saying they are gonna "check out" the valve body, might actually mean "i know its not messed up, but i make more money by checking it out".

like i said, im not tranny expert lol, so if you do decide to go on with it, id check out what other tranny shops say and see if all of thier stories and diagnosis match up to eachother. cuz if its something so simple that doesnt require tearing into the tranny, you could run into an honest tranny guy at a differant shop and just tell you straight up what is wrong with it, instead of ripping your wallet a new a$$.

that shop could be right and honest, but at least see what "other" shops say too!

i work at an independant shop (not tranny specialized shop) and i know all the little tricks and ect to make more money.

They looked at the tranny and then came back and said I need a rebuild. They argued metal "powder" in my fluid and said they would have to further take it apart, clean it, and inspect it, along with the torque converter. They did not charge me for anything. They installed the pan, filled it with fluid, and I was on my merry way.

I still don't know what is wrong, and the tranny still acts the same way.

***had.....when you HAD your tranny rebuilt a few years ago haha just bein real dude

I rebuilt my trans and didn't adjust the TV right. I can't remember what I did to adjust it, but I burned up 3-4 clutches on first hard run(about 100 miles after rebuild). Long story short...
Press D-button
Push that center all the way in
Release D-button
Grab throttle linkage on throttle body and give it 1/4 turn(or until it stops) don't even bother with the pedal

I did that and have beat the piss out of it since. I've manually downshifted to the point of locking rear tires.
You never stated if you are able to get into 3rd gear. Once 3-4 clutches are smoked, the motor will just rev once you've gone through 2nd. So depending on gears, your speed(in drive) will end up somewhere around 30-40 at about 3k rpm.

If that is the case, you would most definately need a rebuild at this point in time.

Hah damn this is exactly what I did TZFBird..

It goes into third gear and manually shifts fine, as long as I don't screw up when I move the shift lever.

The problem is that adjusting the tv cable does NOTHING. I've adjusted it and adjusted it and adjusted it, and the tranny still does not function correctly in "Drive." It goes into third gear WAY too quickly, and then I have no power. This happens after I stomp the gas pedal...it has stacked shifts (I think that's the terminology).

I talked to the guy who installed the shift kit, and he said it's installed correctly and that the governor was cleaned and part of it was replaced because it was broken. There is no position on the TV cable that has not been tried. The thing just won't shift properly in Drive.

Something's gotta be wrong inside the tranny. I just don't know what.

I guess since the governor is good, and the shift kit is installed, and adjusting the TV cable does NOTHING to fix the problem, then the tranny must need a rebuild, in order for the darn thing to downshift when I push the gas, when I am in "D."

If anyone else has any ideas, I'd appreciate them.

I have this site bookmarked, but I forgot about it.
Read this whole page:
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/part3.php

Part 1 is cable adjustment
Part 2 describes what the TV cable affects

First, the governor ONLY controls WOT upshifts. So therefore, not your problem.

The thing that controls "kickdown" or downshifting is... The TV cable, or throttle valve, also known as the technical name for a "kickdown" or "passing gear". So we're all on the same page with nomenclature here.

So this points to a TV cable or valve problem (internal to the valve body)

When you say you adjust the cable, is there tension on it at all when it is at rest after you finish? Please answer that first before reading on.

If there is not, you can go to Vatozone and pick up some cable "swage" ends, basically a thing you pull the TV cable through with a screw in it, to make a new end for your cable to allow you to shorten it. They are in the help aisle. This should allow you to get the proper adjustment on the TV cable.

If there IS tension on the TV after you adjust it, then there is an internal problem with the transmission, particularly the valve body. If you don't have a local shop you can trust, I would recomend buying an entire valvebody from someone you trust.

I personally modify the valvebodies for constant pressure, both to make it easy on the customer, and allow me to offer a lifetime warranty on the unit's I build, without a shady "tv cable" catch all way out of the warranty, lol.

Anyhow, long story short, the problem is most definately in either the cable or the valvebody, let me know if I can help any further.

So others may read this and possibly receive help....YES, there is still tension on the TV cable, after it is at rest. I even carefully tightened a screw into the slide adjuster portion, to make the cable pull the throttle valve as tight as possible, and it still did not fix the problem.

And Hey, thank you very much for your input. So does a constant pressure valve body then get rid of the TV cable adjusting woes?

I think I remember reading on TCI's website that the constant pressure valve body makes the TV cable either irrelevant or easier to adjust or something like that. It's been a while since I read about that.

You won't run the danger of burning up a trans with this valve body. I actually developed it for AOD's in Ford's, but adapted it for 700's when I got into this market a few year's ago.

You would still have to adjust the cable for shift points, but it wouldn't be as critical. The only way around adjusting the cable for shift point's is either a 4l60e (uses electronic solenoids) or a manual valvebody.