Nelz

So I've been researching the web for "reasonably'" priced sub $1,000 upgrade options for the T5. This needs to include a safety bell housing to protect me from an eventual clutch explosion. (So starting off with a $500 steel SFI bell housing, that only leaves $500.)

A lot of people will say junk it and go for a used T-56. Well, a used T-56 in my area goes for about $1,500. Plus I need a new cross member, which is another $100-300.

Option 1: Used T-56 Used: $1,500. Cross member $200. =$1700.00
Limit: 450 ft. lbs of torque.

Option 2: If I wanted to go with a new T-56 Magnum, I'm looking at $3000 for a new transmission. Cross member $200. = $3200.00
Limit: 700 ft. lbs of torque

COST OF Common parts regardless of transmission used: QUICKTIME BELL HOUSING ($600) CLUTCH -Centerforce dual friction: ($500) = $1100.00

Well, I'd have to replace the clutch anyway, so let's subtract $500.00 because it's a maintenance item. So really, the quick time bell housing is $100 more than say, a Lakewood one for a T-5/TKO.

Option 3: TKO500 or 600. It will fit a T-5 bell housing, but will have 500 ft. lbs.-600 ft. lbs. as the limit, I'd just be missing one gear, so my highway mileage will be down, but not by a lot. (Notice the new Camaro's and Corvette's are getting 19-24MPG Highway according to the EPA http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find....=31328&id=4211. Also notice that a stock 1988 IROC with a T-5 gets 24MPG ) This transmission is about $2,500 new.

Option 4: Beef up the T-5. Since I have a Word Class T-5, and there are a lot of options, but the Case of the T-5 seems to be the weak spot. But if I went with this option, and upgraded it for cheap and blew it up, I would still have my bell housing for a TKO500 or 600. With $500 left to spare, my only options are to upgrade the gears.

So based on the Mar. 2012 (I think it's the Mar. 2012 issue, it did say display until April 6, 2012) there was an article about their Monster Transmission rebuild that could handle 400hp. There was also this link I found to an old car craft site: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_06...n/viewall.html

Which indicated that there was a Ford Z version of the T-5 that could handle about 330 ft. lbs of torque.

There is a rebuilt kit from Summit, missing the bearing retainer for $270.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...s/?keyword=T+5

Or the Rebuild Kit with the bearing retainer and redline fluid.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-13-0038/


Or there is the 400hp/350ft. lbs. capacity of the Monster Transmission kit. I had to e-mail them, but their site is www.monstertrans.com You need to call them or e-mail them as they have kits for the various version of the T-5. But the World Class kit is about $400.

Or the G-Force gear kit, which is supposed to handle 600hp and 550 ft. lbs. of torque (without a case upgrade.) The last part I find hard to believe-I'm skeptical, but there are members here that swear by this kit. http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp This would blow the sub $1000 that was specified. However, if the claims are true, I would be saving the $300-400 on a kit, and even more if I were to upgrade to a TKO.

I called them up and they said that the gear kit is $1295.00. They said I didn't need to have the case upgraded, but I could if I wanted to. So this is half way to a TKO 500 or TKO 600. It would save me $400 on a new gear kit, and it would save me around $2200 over a TKO if it really did do what it claimed.


Hmm....choices, choices, and what to do?

I'm tempted to spend the $400 that I would have on the Monster kit and divert it towards the g-force kit.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

What's broken on yours?
Will it be behind a 305TPI or are you going to want to run that T5 behind an unnamed engine built by your invisible friend?

Inpect your case for the main to counter spread damage. If it's good, build it with a bearings and synchros kit from thegearbox.org and 5th gear support plate. If you don't know how to set up bearing endplay / preload, figure it out because it matters heavily.

Don't kid yourself with aftermarket companies' torque specs. The limiting factor of the T5 is largely the front of the case.

The G-forge gear kit in a stock case would be pointless.

If there's nothing really broken (yet) with an LB9 / T5, I personally would start eating ramen noodles and save up for what I really wanted.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

No matter what you do to a T-5 its just a bandaid, if you drive them hard. The strength in a transmission is in the case, metals and the distance between the main and countershaft, the farther the distance, the stronger the gears/transmission can be..
We have blown up T-5s just goofing around on street tires with stock mustang 302s.
Like anything tho, you can get a trans that will hold some good power and then you could get one that will just fall apart with a airfilter mod.
I get my T-5 parts from D&Dperformance
Good luck with whichever road you go down.

midias

Don't forget astro performance

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Im sure you are aware, but you worded your post in such a way that I figured I'd mentioni t... The T5 and T56 bellhousings and clutch will NOT interchange. Because of that I'd probably save for a T56. Might be worth it to spend that much on a bellhousing if you can put a TKO on it, But spending $500 on a bellhousing for a T5 doesnt make all that much sense to me. If you cant afford a T56, you cant afford a TKO either...

Also, a little trick, the T5 hydraulic line is too short to use with a t56, but I would DEFINITELY stay with the T5 master and T5 slave cylinder if you end up doing that swap. After messing around with hydraulics, I think the T5 master and slave are perfect for a T56 clutch.

Nelz

I built a monster Super Ram'd 383 that is making about 470 ft. lbs. of torque. So I'm at this road of what to put behind it. I have a WC T-5 as it was stock in my LB9 IROC.

So I'm looking at options.

http://www.jegs.com/v/G-Force-Transmissions/468

Jeg's sells the following:
New G-Force Case: $350.00
New Gears: $1295.99
New Main shaft required for 500 ft. lbs. of torque capacity ($355.99)
(I need to call G-force to see if that Main shaft will fit a Camaro as what they have listed is for a Ford T-5)
Total: $2001.98.

Also for those interested, here is the link to the Astroperformance kit:
http://www.astroperformance.com/adva...sort/3a/page/5

At this price point, I'm very close to getting a TKO500 for $2200.00 And everything is NEW! And I could use my Safety Bell housing from a T-5 to fit a TKO transmission.

This is the very problem of owning a T-5. At a certain price point, you can just replace your old part with a much stronger part.

Maybe the Monster Transmission guys are right. 350 ft. lbs. of torque is about the limit of a stock T-5 (and I'm inferring the case is what gives despite upgraded gears.) For $400, you can upgrade the gears for a stock or mild rebuilt of 350 ft. lbs. of torque. And that's still assuming you are not power shifting or have drag slicks attached.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, that's above and beyond what a T5 should be behind under aggressive driving.

TKO might have the Ford 28 or 31 spline output so you'd be changing your yoke. Not sure if the driveshaft needs shortened too, but a few guys here have used them so that answer can be searched.

I'd go T56.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

If I remember right, the idea behind the gears is that they're straight cut, so when the case flexes, it's much less dangerous for the gears to go slightly out of alignment/engagement. You still have the same problem as before, just teh gears are more tolerant of it. But it's just a band aid. For some types of driving I wouldnt sweat doing something like that. But if you're gonna be leaning on it hard with power shifts and hard launches drag racing... I dont see any way around getting a new trans. If you were road racing it I'd stay with the T5 a while and just drive around its weaknesses (3rd gear is one of them, so be careful going into it).

I'd probably still run the T5 as is and just run it til it breaks, I've seen some of them last a good long while, especially on the street. Just get your ducks in a row til it goes to the great gearbox rebuild shop in the sky. And remember, with a T56 you can throw some 3.73's out back... or even some 4.10s or 4.56's, but those dont last long in a 10-bolt... What I would NOT do is dump any money into T5 specific parts right now. Just run it as is and dont lean on it hard during shifts and you're probably gonna be okay for a while.

With the T56 you will need:

new crossmember
new hydraulic line that is longer
The trans
new flywheel (I hope you have a 1 pc RMS block)

Your current driveshaft is fine. Trans mount is fine. neutral safety switch etc is fine. Pedals are fine if you stick with 3rd gen master/slave setup. I dont know if 88 got the electric speedo or the cable speedo, the cable makes it much more expensive to get a working speedo in the car. The 2 pc RMS conversion flywheels are $400ish. So that's a big expense too.

If you've got a 1 pc RMS motor I think T56 is a nobrainer. If you've got a 2 pc you'll need to price out conversion parts because $400 on a flywheel will significantly disadvantage the T56 conversion route.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

For the price of T5's, just keep blowing them up..

I used to say that back in the day, in the early 2000s when I raced my '89 formula. Car would go 119-120mph in the 1/4, and I beat it hard every weekend at the track. Never got to transmission #2...

The key is a good shifter, and don't let your wife drive it.

-- Joe

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

I let my wife drive my T5 all the time with no problems. It's my girlfriend that I don't trust.

Nelz

I thought about it, I think I 'm just going to install the stock T-5 back in (behind 470ft. lbs. of torque) with a Safety bell housing. After it breaks, I'll just do a G-force or A5 conversion using the reinforced G-Force front case. But I will install their recommended Pro 5.0 shifter on the stock T-5.

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

Pain felt

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I still dont think it's a good idea to put money into a T5. Get the shifter sure, maybe the bellhousing, but the rest of it I would leave alone. If you dont mind pulling and reinstalling a T5 (not so bad since it's not as heavy as a T56 or 700r4) I'd still just run stock ones til they bust and replace them. The transmissions by themselves are what... $300? If you're committed to changing out transmissions more often than clutches I'd go for it. There's a lot of merit in that given how common these things are. And I just dont buy that a reinforced T5 is going to last any longer than a stock one at your power level.

midias

The reinforced T5 form gforce used a new custom machined case and gears should be plenty strong

Nelz

Regarding the case: (From Astro Performance)

If the case is cracked or damaged where the bearing races are placed, replace it. But if not, reuse it.* There is an upgraded case available for $350, but when the "helix angle" of gear set is reduced as is with the Upgraded A-5 1st-4th Internals, the stock case capability is raised by over 60%!* With this being said, we hardly ever use aftermarket cases with our A-5 builds. That holds true with our 575 Torque / 650HP A-5 builds!* We will only use New Style Stock Cases for customers that won't be exchanging cores in.
*
475 Torque A-5 Transmission build performed by us includes the A-5 1st-4th Internals, Cluster Support Plate, and Solid Key Kit for the 3rd/4th Synchronizer Assembly.* The 575 Torque Kit includes the same items but also provides a upgraded 9310 alloy 28 spline (same spline as stock) Output Shaft.* Both models have the same ratio's throughout, as the gears are exactly the same.* The main difference is the alloy of steel used on the output shaft of the 575 Torque build.* Our website shows the A-5 Gear Kit as what upgrades a stock style T-5 to 475 Torque. But, you also should use the Cluster Plate and Solid Keys which have to be purchased separately.

Thanks,
Tony @ Astro Performance


My question is the mainshaft. I'm going to count mine soon. I think there is a difference between the Ford and Chevy one. So all I have is a gear upgrade

jmd

iTrader: (4)

GM T5s and some Isuzu ones are 27 spline mainshafts for the slip yoke spline fit.
Mustangs are 28.

Nelz

Luckily:

"We have a GM Style Kit available...but the 575 Torque Capacity A-5 is only figured in with our Ford 28 spline Output Shaft. We offer an Upgraded 27 Spline Output Shat, but it is only capable of closer to 550 Torque @ Flywheel when used with the other A-5 Components. Give me the Tag Numbers and I'll see what Camaro you have. I want to make sure it is a World Class first. Yes, you would definitely have to send a core in for a GM A-5 Build. We simply don't have enough cores or GM Style Case components to build a unit and simply charge a core charge. We could however send the parts to you to have your T-5 upgraded to A-5 specs."

Tony @ Astro Performance

jmd

iTrader: (4)

TTOP350's avatar. Every time you think the T5 build make sense, go back and look at it.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Run a ford shaft + yoke with a conversion ujoint.

If I can run for years at 120mph trap speeds in the 1/4 without breaking a stock T5, I'm sure those built T5's will handle pretty much any street-legal thirdgen out there.

-- Joe

Nelz

You really do that with a stock GM T-5? What's your secret?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I didn't, I'm not paranoid of it breaking. But a while back while googling T5 stuff, I found some folks with . Jags maybe it was? were running a mixture of ford and chevy parts, and they ran the ford main shaft and yoke with a 3R conversion ujoint.

-- Joe

Time2Fly

It has been my unfortunate experience (read as waste of $$$) that those transmissions aren't much stronger than a factory World Class T5.

Not mine.



All of the T5 pics below are from passes in the 1.6s trapping 130 at 3500 lbs on drag radials...

First up, stock World Class T5 with broken third gear (very common breakage)







Decided to "upgrade" and shell out a lot of $$ for a G-Force T5




Several passes later (6 to be exact), we have a transmission with broken SECOND gear




After being repaired, and reinstalled, 8 passes later - no more third gear



Look close and you can see all the "dog ears" are gone from third gear





Better view of third gear with "dog ears" that have sheared off

Nelz

Well, here is the fix for the 2-3 shift problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGiEU...e_gdata_player

G-Force did recommend the PRO 5.0 shifter and now I know why. The video says that most of the breakage happens in the 2-3 shift because of missing gears or the shift fork bending. So maybe the gears and case are only a part of it.

Here is the GM High Tech article of their Monster rebuilt for the T-5. Monster said this handles about 350 ft. Lbs. of torque and is about $400.00 for a rebuild kit. I wonder if this plus a Pro 5.0 shifter and a stronger shift fork (I'm still looking for a supplier) would make the T-5 a bit stronger. That sucks about what happened with your g-force kit. That's a pretty expensive gear set.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...e/viewall.html

Nelz

Hey where are those pictures you added?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I've been saying that for 10 years. The break because people miss third. Either bad shifter, bad driver, or a combination of the two. Everyone here thinks they are a top-class race car driver, so they would rather blame the transmission.


-- Joe

BrianI

Astro 2nd gear next to a G Force 2nd



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Nelz

Which one is which?

midias

I believe gforce is the thicker one

86Z

iTrader: (4)

470 ft/lbs at the motor or rear? i dyno'd 420 ft/lbs i sold the t5 before it blew and took my leg off, i just didnt trust it, i run a tko 600 shifting like butter down the track, street driven with drag radials... i highly recommend the tko

BrianI

Astro gear is the larger one on the left. I think I have a pic showing the Astro gear set next to G force after being installed in a T5 case. If I can find it I'll post it

Nelz

That's why I budgeted for a Safety Bell housing Yes, 470 ft. lbs at the fly wheel. The Safety bell housing can be transferred over to a TKO 600 after the T-5 breaks.

86Z

iTrader: (4)

cool, i have a lakewood scatter shield also

just to clarify.. that was 420 ft/lbs to the wheels. again the tko is like butter, if your staying with the t5 you cannot go wrong with the pro 5.0 shifter, i had one on mine.

Nelz

That I have to see! Thanks for posting your pic!

BrianI

Astro is top pic and Gforce is below it

duf6

Where did you get the astro gear set?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

No doubt, that looks BEEFY! Where do you get those parts!?!?

BrianI

Guys, I don't have an Astro gear set. This is just what I've found while researching.

http://www.astroperformance.com/#


tony@astroperformance.com

I'm not sure if a GM gear set is on the website but they do have one.

Time2Fly

The final solution in my case was to buy a Jerico DR-4.

I do have a slightly used G-Force T5 that has been fixed and is ready to go if anyone is interested...

Nelz

Here is what I'm testing.

1. Lakewood part number 15020 (safety bellhousing)
2. Lakewood pivot ball adjustable pivot ball LAK-15501
3. 4 grade 8 7/8-14x1.5" bolts to mount the T-5 to the bellhousing
4. The lakewood kit doesn't have enough bolts, so I had to go buy more grade 8 bolts.

The above was to ensure that I don't have shrapnel in the car if my clutch blows up.

I'm going by what Pro 5.0 says. The reason that the T-5 breaks is because of
missed shifts from 2nd to 3rd and bending forks.

To solve this, I bought the Pro 5.0 Shifter for third gen camaro/firebirds. And I bought
pioneer automotive's shift fork. The Lakewood Heavy duty shift fork part number
LAK-15500 is made from made of 0.165 in. thick stamped steel. The Pioneer shift fork came
in at 0.186 in. think stamped steel, so it should be less prone to bend than the
Lakewood piece.

Last but not least, I'm filling the T-5 with Redline D4 ATF.

I probably should have rebuilt the T-5, but I'll do that if it breaks with the above upgrades.

Nelz

Oh, and if you're going to buy the Lakewood clutch fork boot, you're going to have fun installing it. It's universal fit....

85Z28NOS

iTrader: (2)

I contacted G-Force about there T-5 cases because they no longer list them on there web site. Its been a week and I have not recieved a responce yet whether they still make/sell them

85Z28NOS

iTrader: (2)

Scratch that! I just got the email from G-Force and they do still have there cases for GM cars as well. $350+S/H

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Because it's easy to blame the end user for doing it wrong when your parts break. 2nd and 3rd are where stock T5's are most likely to fail as well.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_06...n/viewall.html


It's most likely because the mainshaft and countershaft are still in the stock locations. The greater the distance between these two shafts, the larger the gears can be and the stronger they can be. It's exactly like gears for a 7.5 10-bolt, metallurgy will not fix the fact that the gears are just too small to handle that much power. Add in the case weaknesses and the mainshaft and countershaft pushing apart and there's jsut a lot to not like about the T5 design for long term reliability. Theyre only $250 a piece, just get a new one when it breaks.

I do firmly believe that some people just are inherently gentler on these things, even racing, than others, just due to small facets of their shifting technique. Maybe you can make one last a long time. I also think that a good shifter probably helps at least a little bit, but dont believe the marketting hype that a shifter is going to make your transmission bulletproof. And I LOVE my Pro 5.0 shifter on my T56.

Stebo

Richmond makes a pretty stout 6-speed. I currently run it in my 92 RS after the 3rd explosion of the T-5. It came with the crossmember and Long shifter but you'll have to change the yoke on the drive shaft. Can't remember the spline count at the moment but I do believe it was that of a turbo 400.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

32.

When doing that swap, it helps to find the yoke that has a short distance from the slip-yoke to the u-joint center. There are some on which that distance is longer and it prevents re-use of the stock-length driveline.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Because most people cannot drive a manual transmission. And I don't mean people that own automatics, I'm talking about people that own manuals. You know, the big tough manly car guys.

I've never broke a T5 either on the street, or in my 11 second 120mph passes in the quarter. I'm sure they can break, but when I read members say they won't live behind a stock L98 I just can't help but laugh.

But hey, the more you guys tell people they suck and are junk, the more the price is driven down. I'll continue to use them in all my race car builds. Even if I break one, I can replace them for $200 all day. It would take what, 10 broken T5's to justify the cost of one TKO ?

-- Joe

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

GM wouldnt even warranty them behind stock L98's.

If your car is already set up for a T5, I wholeheartedly support just considering them disposable as cheap as they are. Especially if you're on a tight budget. But spending $1000+ to rebuild one with a new case and gearset to make it "stronger" isnt really going to get you anywhere. You're still held back by design constraints, not material strengths. You can buy 4+ more T5's for that kind of cost.


Ive got no problem believing you're just that much better at making them live than everyone else, either. But that's the thing, you're apparently better at helping them stay together than 95 percent of stick shift drivers. So do you really want to advocate everyone stay with the T5?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

There's literally dozens...(maybe more) threads about how weak the T-5 is, G-Force vs Astro, T-56 vs TKO....you name it, it's there.

All I'll say on the topic is this:

I've had my G-Force built T-5 trans for over 6 years now. I don't have the upgraded case since they weren't out yet when I got mine, or else I would have just for the extra peace of mind. I've beaten on it pretty hard, but not at the track. I chassis dynoed at 390 HP and 495 ft. lbs. torque, and I'm running DR's this year. So far, so good.....

There's plenty of people on the board that have broken numerous T-5's, so no doubt they can be broken. I can pretty much break any manual trans myself if I abuse it and speed shift it, miss gears when at WOT etc.....

I'm not advertising G-Force, Astro or any other trans. Just saying I've not broken mine....yet. I think personally anesthes has some valid points....how long ANYTHING will last depends on how it's treated, and I can also agree with some of what InfernalVortex says so far as design strength goes....sure there's better designs and inherently stronger trannys than the T-5 out there....ALL CAN BREAK....

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That is a myth. GM couldn't make a L98 pass emissions requirements for the model year with the manual. In fact, this started on the tail end of the second generations, with 80-81 if I recall not being available in california (and some other states) with a 350 and manual trans. On the Corvette, GM went with the 4+3 abortion which was later replaced with the ZF6 as long as you let the computer force which gears you were in to meet the emissions and fuel economy requirements.


Maybe. I don't know that many members on the forum have an engineering degree and credentials to really touch upon that.

Well, I'd advocate people learn more about how transmissions work and how to drive. When I used to own the shop I got to meet a lot of young idiots who "just blew up their junk T5 behind their modified (open element cleaner) L03", and they want a T56 swap for their 190hp muscle machine. And I'm just like, dude, see the pedal to the left? why don't you try using that once and a while, and when you do, don't let it back up until the shifter is all the way into the next gear.

-- Joe

Nelz

I was digging through the library and found How to Rebuild and Modify Your Manual Transmission by Robert Bowen. He does a really nice job and has an entire chapter on the T-5 including a rebuild. But here are some things he published.

How to rebuild and modify your manual transmission by Robert Bowen. Pg. 84. Racers' personal experience has shown that the Z-spec T-5 (Ford) will withstand nearly 400 lb-ft for street use, road racing and street tire drag racing. Rated at 330 ft. lbs of torque.

Pg. 87. The most common and necessary aftermarket modification is the shifter mechanism. The stock T-5 shifter has long, vague throws and the stock linkage is not knowin for durability. The shifter geometry and rubber isolator conspire to make shifts feel rubbery and light. There are no internal stops for the shift rail or forks, so overtravel and bent or broken shift forks are a constant problem with hard driven T-5's-the most common failure is breakage of the thin areas of the shift fork, which results in the loss of two adjacent gears (usually the third/forth fork breaks first.)

Aftermarket shifters address both of these problems. Most slightly reduce the distance the lever must travel between gears, but, more important, they have stops that prevent linkage overtravel and shift fork damage. In addition, aftermarket shifters eliminate the rubber isolators between the lever and shift linkage. Both Gearboxman in the United Kingdom and G-force in the United States make stronger shift forks, but these are no substitute for a shifter with stops.

He then goes on about G-Force. Then mentioned that Liberty Gears offers a "Pro-shift" service for the T-5 that involves machining the synchronizer cone and dog teeth from the gear and welding on a stronger dog ring. (This does not increase the strength of the gear, just de-syncrhonizes them)

The last mod is using a heavier bearing retainer and support for the rear countershaft bearing race.

Pg. 88. the stock T-5 part is stamped from thin sheet metal, and under heavy stress the rear countershaft bearing can move around in the case. This puts undue stress on the case and will eventually cause fatigue damage and case stretching-the result will be stripped teeth on the over drive gears at a minimum and damage to the other gears at worst. Get a stronger aftermarket bearing retainer and you increase counter shaft preload and overal gear train strength.

And change the oil yearly.

Pg. 89
The World Class wants ATF, not gear oil. If 85w90 gear oil is installed the symptom includes bad shifting particularly in 4th gear. If you suspect this has happened, drain the fluid, remove the input bearing retainer and shaft and inspect the fourth blocking ring. Replace the blocking ring if it looks burned. If it grinds badly in all gears, the transmission has to be rebuilt.

Getting the most of the T-5 requires at least 3 things. The right oil, careful setup and a good aftermarket shifter.


Pg. 90.

In any T-5 used for racing or street performance, the mainshaft bearing preload should be increased. For non Cobra T-5's with needle thrust bearings, do not increase the preload beyond 0.001 inch negative. With the tapered roller input bearing, the preload can be more, as much as 0.005 inch. The countershaft in both types should be set up with 0.001" to 0.004" of preload. Preload can be increased beyond this point, but bearing life will be reduced. Check and reset the preload on both shafters after every few weekends if the transmission is used for racing. The increased preload will help the shafts resist spreading and gear damage.

He recommends the Pro 5.0 shifter as well.

The Hurst shifter does not have a blocking ring with stops but the Pro 5.0 one does. So at least its something.

And I guess no slicks ever either.

It's pretty interesting reading. The rebuild in the book is done by Anaheim Gear.