I_Ryan

The wife and I went on a date night a few nights ago. And I thought I was being cool, by power-shifting the old Borg-Warner 5-speed. Needless to say, it started making a loud screeching noise as soon as I would push down the clutch. So I babied her home and started pricing out a new clutch. The '87 IROC-Z has over 150,000 showing for milage. So I figured it needed it, regardless of the racket coming from the bell housing. I found a kit for $100.
Dropping the old one hasn't given me much trouble, so far. I got a bunch of work done last night. Tonight I'll be working on the 6? bolts on the bell housing. The 3 bolts on the driver side of the bell gave me nightmare scenarios last night. Not really looking forward to breaking my fingers tonight.

Anyways, my big question is about the hydraulic clutch. I want to know, how to disconnect the hydraulics from the trans, in a careful manner...
Since I don't know what that entails. I was hoping someone in the forum could guide me through a proper way to disconnect the hydraulic [clutch-lever boot?] from the transmission.

I_Ryan

Everybody likes pictures...

I_Ryan

I'm assuming that when I take out the two bolts on the bracket, the residual hydraulic pressure will push out the plunger. And I may not be able to push it back in without performing brain surgery. Or will the weight of the clutch pedal be the only pressure.

It would help if I even knew what the things proper name is...

Also, how important is it to have the flywheel machined?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

You will be able to compress the slave by hand to reassembly, don't worry about it, just do not depress the clutch pedal without having the slave bolted in position and connected to the fork or it will pop.

If the flywheel is not marred up or has heat spotting ect, you could get away without machining it. But new ones are so cheap its almost not worth the effort of machining it down if your paying a shop to do it.

I_Ryan

Thanks. I'll make sure nobody touches the pedal while the "slave cylinder" out. And I'll inspect the flywheel really well, once I expose it. Looks like $83 for a new one from O'reilly. I can't imagine a machine shop staying in business if they charge more to resurface one.

I_Ryan

The bearing was busted in a hundred pieces. The flywheel had some spots on it, so I just brought it over to "Mr. Clutch" to resurface for $35.

I need the torque specs for the flywheel, and pressure plate, etc. if anyone knows them. I haven't been able to find any decent service manuals to help me out.