Cole Curtis

Ok so I have a Muncie and a lsx(dbw). So I've figured out that I need a bbc 621 bellhousing, Sachs 1050 clutch from 05 Silverado. Ok now to the hard part. Linkage and crossmember. So first for linkage can I use a 82 camaro 4 speed linkage and pedals? Also I can't find a Muncie cross member with a torque arm relocation bracket. Is there a difference between the th350 and Muncie cross member from umi or spohn? Also could I just weld a bracket onto the non relocation crossmember?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sounds to me like you need to do some tradin'.

Get rid of the Muncie stuff; find somebody with a 60s car that needs it. Those people will pay GOOD MONEY for what you've got. Turn the cash you get into something that fits your car instead of destroying your car trying to graunch this misfit thing into it.

That's how stuff like this works... not, "I've got this {fill in the blank} how do I make it fit my car" or WORSE, like this case, "how do I hack my car to fit this {fill in the blank}"; rather; "I've got this {fill in the blank} how do I TURN IT INTO something that fits my car".

Just common sense. (which unfortunately is not as common as its name would suggest)

Cole Curtis

Ive actually done quite a bit of homework on this. All I need to know is about linkage and crossmember...I would say this is more classic hotrodding. But thanks for the discouraging words I suppose. Also Muncies are strong manuals which I need cause I should be around 500lbs of torque. And t56s are just to expensive for my blood.

igotta355z28

iTrader: (1)

If t56 are too rich for your blood, how exactly are you going to afford to build a 500ft lbs 5.3l.....why would you want a modern lsx engine with an antiquated 4spd....

Cole Curtis

Look I just want some help from some knowledgeable people about clutch linkage than me. Not people saying you shouldn't do this... And I've already done that. Its called you do it yourself.

Atilla the Fun

I'd trade the Munchy for the roadRace version of the Super T-10. The thing is laughably underrated at 375 ft-lbs, Nascar is using them at 900 HP. If you're planning to dump the clutch at 7000 RPM on drag slicks, then get the 2.43:1 first gear. Otherwise, the 2.64 / 1.60 / 1.23 / 1.00 version would serve. But the same money, which you can get for a good Munchy, will buy a used T56. And by the time you add enough axle ratio to make that 2.64:1 driveable, you're gonna get exactly 1/2 the MPG you would with a T56. That alone pays for the $1200 the T56 is going for.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The 621 bell doesn't line up the fork to the 82-83 linkage.
The Lakewood 15015 does, and accepts the Muncie straight-up pattern.
Then the console won't work.

The Muncie is a downgrade and hemorrhaging money on gas instead of spending it on the right trans. in the first place is penny-wise, pound-foolish.

Don't get me wrong, I like free, I like cheap, and I like available now. But making mods to downgrade the car is the opposite of what you should be doing. Make mods for upgrades that are worthwhile.

Doing your research by now would have included knowing the crossmember mount location question as well as knowing the 621 bell isn't the hot ticket for the third-gen.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Do a google search on LS1 Z bar bracket, common on C3 corvettes too cheap to buy a better trans

padak

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I have been seeing that a lot here lately. When you ask for information on how to do it, you get do this instead (use this motor not that one you're getting for free, or this transmission, or it's impossible, yada yada.

Now, I don't know much about Muncie's but I use to read on the Fiero Forums that those are the transmission those guys use then they stuff a V8 into their little cars.. this may help you or it may not.

http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/Ultimate.cgi

rusty vango

im with sofa here. (much to my own surprise) LS anyting . and you have to engineer the whole car to accept its power and torque. its not a simple drop it in and go kinda deal. be prepared, or just forget it al together.

splitty

I have a Muncie in my car. It was in there when I bought the car so I don't know what rods they used. They must of not been able to get a rod for reverse because mine is cut and welded in the middle.
They made a plate that bolts to the trans and then bolted the shifter and torque arm to it so the shifter would come up through the factory consul. Quite simple set up. Finding the correct rods may be tricky, And the shifter is right up against the tunnel.
After I change the rear end. The trans will be the next thing that goes. I have 3.42 rear gears and with this trans it is really not a highway car. I don't use it to cruise, I just take it out to beat on it. That is about all it is good for with this set up. Good luck.

Time2Fly

Hi Cole. Some things to consider here.

1. If this is what you want man, do it. If you do it and are successful, post pics and explanations; we need more people like you on this board who want to help other 3rd gen owners. The critics, we could do without.

2. 82-83 Camaros came from the factory with mechanical clutch linkage. I see NOS Z bars appear on Ebay from time to time but they are very expensive. You may want to consider going to hydraulic linkage (that's what i did).

3. If you look under the brake master cylinder booster along the top surface of what is commonly referred to as the front frame rail, you will see a couple of holes. The larger of the two may or may not be threaded, these are for the outboard ball end of the Z bar. The tricky part with an LS engine is going to be headers/manifolds and mounting the engine side of the Z bar ball. Scoggin Dickey sells an LS mount for the ball but I don't know if it will work with any of the 3rd gen swap headers on the market.

4. The Hurst catalog shows that the Hurst shifter for the 1963 Corvette is the same Hurst shifter for the 82-83 T-10 Camaros. With the correct mounting plate and linkage (Muncies do not use the same shifter plates or linkage as T-10s), fitting into the factory hole and console should not be an issue. I would research the Hurst catalog to see what install kits are available, keep in mind if you buy them from large speed shops you can probably test fit them and return them if they don't fit. If the 1963 Corvette uses the same Hurst shifter as the 3rd gen it's possible that the plate and linkage from that application may work as well - I don't know for sure.

5. I was going to do the exact swap you are doing so I started researching as you have done. In the end I went with a Jerico DR4 behind my 400 ci LS3 based bullet. I fabbed my own shifter plate but was able to use the shifter and rods from the inline Long shifter that came with the Jerico. My car is a 1LE so it was mandatory that the shifter fit in the factory hole with no mods. As stated earlier I opted to go to hydraulic linkage - once my car leaves the line the clutch is not required to shift it. Search Jerico 4 seed (I misspelled it on accident in the original title) and you'll see my thread and some of my pics if you think they would be helpful.

6. As far as the torque arm mount, you could either buy an aftermarket torque arm that doesn't bolt to the tranny or you could buy a TH350 aftermarket torque arm bracket and see if you can attach it to the Muncie as the length would be correct.

splitty

Well what did you do?

Cole Curtis

Sorry guys college seems to really get into the way of these sorts of things :/. But for right now I'm still swapping in the muncie. In the process of gathering parts. I'm going to go with a cable clutch for now as it is the simplest option atm. There is a crossmember sold for the muncie from hawks. I'm going going to mount a bracket for the torque arm to that which solves the torque arm issue and helps the transmission. Getting a cable operated clutch pedal from somewhere. Pretty much just waiting to be back home to get into the actual work. The z bar linkage is absolutely horrible from what I've heard. The hurst shifter does in fact fit so thats not an issue.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Cable clutch. This g'on be good.

Simplest? Non-bolt-in parts are not simpler than those that are. I told you what was simplest.

You found a 70's cable bell for cheap. Nothing wrong with that. It simply has zero benefits to make your fab time worthwhile.

splitty

My car has the stock 82 bellhousing, stock shift arm and z bar. stock adjuster rod. The trans mount looks stock cant guarantee it though.

The only thing that looks home made is how the shifter and torque arm mount. All they did was take a plate about 3/8s thick drilled the 5 mounting holes to attach it to the tranny. It runs far enough back to position the shifter in the stock location. They then mounted the shifter to it and the torque arm. you have to get some washers to put between the plate and trans so it will clear the driveshaft. you also have to trim here and there on the plate to make sure nothing hits. The hardest part is getting shifter rods to work without rubbing on anything or each other. Mine appear to have been cut and welded back together to get them to work.
If I had my old phone I could post some pics of it all before I put it all back in.

Listen to jmd he knows his stuff when it comes to trans, and linkages. He saved me from myself when I tried mixing different stuff. My car would still be on jack stands if it weren't for his advise.

If you are planning on getting on the freeway anything over 55-60 mph you will be guzzling gas. I don't take my car on the freeway at all. I have 3.42 rear gears.With 26 in rear tires I believe.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I forgot something.

The chevy cable bellhousings accept 153 tooth flywheels.

All production LS wheels are 168.