Charging System
#1
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Charging System
What componets inlcude the charging system of the car, i ask this because last month my voltage meter in the car was bouncing from high to low and the interior dash lights were flickering due to lack of power, so i changed the alternator and everything was alright, now just yesterday this is happening again, lights flickering and car hesitates, could the alternator be defected? Its still under warranty so i can always return it. What do u think
#3
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah; the charging system's pretty basic... it's just a loop.
Alternator output terminal (+)
to
passenger side junction block (+)
passenger side junction block (+)
to
battery (+)
battery ground (-)
to
engine (-) (passenger side, in front)
alternator case ground (-)
to
alternator bracket/engine (-)
Two pin connector of alternator goes to the ignition key to "power up" the internal regulator. Make sure the pins, both on the alternator, and in the connector, are corrosion free, and making a good contact. If that 2-pin connector is loose, that might explain the alternator charging/not charging.
Could also be a bad ring terminal on the alternator output.
Could also be a bad voltage meter in your car. Do you have another voltmeter/multimeter lying around? Measure voltage across the battery with the car off, should get 12 volts. Start the car, measure voltage in the same spot, should be 13.5-13.8-14.0 (in that range).
Oh & the stock replacement alternator should be a 105 amp'er, for an '86 with air conditioning. I had to spin the case too, 86bird_ramair... I didn't want to (I have the lifetime warranty unit), but I doubt they check. It's my 4th alternator; the other 3, I didn't have to spin the case on. But two Pep Boys didn't have the correct orientation, so at the 2nd one, i just took it, and spun it at home. I had to laugh when I returned the old one, the poor guy took forever trying to fit the alternator in the testing station. (I never had them test an alternator before!) I guess he's "not supposed to believe the customer". Sure enough, he says, "Wow, it's not charging at all." I say "told ya." Geez, the voltmeter test doesn't fail, no need to hook it up to the tester!
Alternator output terminal (+)
to
passenger side junction block (+)
passenger side junction block (+)
to
battery (+)
battery ground (-)
to
engine (-) (passenger side, in front)
alternator case ground (-)
to
alternator bracket/engine (-)
Two pin connector of alternator goes to the ignition key to "power up" the internal regulator. Make sure the pins, both on the alternator, and in the connector, are corrosion free, and making a good contact. If that 2-pin connector is loose, that might explain the alternator charging/not charging.
Could also be a bad ring terminal on the alternator output.
Could also be a bad voltage meter in your car. Do you have another voltmeter/multimeter lying around? Measure voltage across the battery with the car off, should get 12 volts. Start the car, measure voltage in the same spot, should be 13.5-13.8-14.0 (in that range).
Oh & the stock replacement alternator should be a 105 amp'er, for an '86 with air conditioning. I had to spin the case too, 86bird_ramair... I didn't want to (I have the lifetime warranty unit), but I doubt they check. It's my 4th alternator; the other 3, I didn't have to spin the case on. But two Pep Boys didn't have the correct orientation, so at the 2nd one, i just took it, and spun it at home. I had to laugh when I returned the old one, the poor guy took forever trying to fit the alternator in the testing station. (I never had them test an alternator before!) I guess he's "not supposed to believe the customer". Sure enough, he says, "Wow, it's not charging at all." I say "told ya." Geez, the voltmeter test doesn't fail, no need to hook it up to the tester!
Last edited by TomP; 05-06-2002 at 01:35 PM.
#4
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Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
You mean one minute the car is charging and the next minute it isn't.
I had a simular problem to this (no pumping stereo though)
The plug in to the alternator had a broken wire in it.
Went to junk yard paid $1 got a new alt plug in and put it in thats all the problem is.
Get the Alt tested first. Take it off. Here there is a local store that will do free alt. tests. Get it tested first to see if thats the problem.
I had a simular problem to this (no pumping stereo though)
The plug in to the alternator had a broken wire in it.
Went to junk yard paid $1 got a new alt plug in and put it in thats all the problem is.
Get the Alt tested first. Take it off. Here there is a local store that will do free alt. tests. Get it tested first to see if thats the problem.
#6
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
don't forget the braided ground straps from the engine to the firewall.
these are easily overlooked when doing engine swaps too.
these are easily overlooked when doing engine swaps too.
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