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V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

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Old 01-06-2003, 10:49 PM   #1
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fuel filter question

1. what size do i need.
2. how do i take the pressure off the fuel lines?
3. any tips??
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:11 PM   #2
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1)20mm and 5/8ths(some will argue 16mm but they are wrong)

2)You can push the valve in on the schrader valve located on the fuel rail.......OR you can do what I do because it's easier: Crack the lines loose, then undo 1 side with a rag covering the filter.

3) Have then new filter close by. Sometimes a syphen effect occurs and the fuel tank will dump fuel out so change it quick. Oh yeah, take the gas cap off to reduce the risk of a syphen.
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Old 01-06-2003, 11:45 PM   #3
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thanks alot! im going to get a clear fuel filter from autozone, from spectre, think its' any good, one more question, dont' mean to bother, what fuel lines do you loosen up? ones by the filter? or the ones in the engine bay...
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Old 01-07-2003, 01:33 AM   #4
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Is your car fuel injected??? You only need to disconnect the lines at the filter under the car.

A carbed car has the filter in the carb.....if yours is carbed.
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Old 01-07-2003, 07:48 AM   #5
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Yo can also depressurize the fuel lines by unplugging the fuel pump and turning the key. The car may start, but soon die from no fuel. The plug for the pump is way up there, above the rear axle. There's a pin holding it in place.

Soak the nuts on your fuel lines at the filter with WD-40 several times a day, starting a few days before you plan to change the filter.

If even after all the soaking the lines are stuck and you break them, don't panic. I've been there, fixed that.

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Old 01-07-2003, 07:52 AM   #6
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them clear filters at zone are not pressure rated high enough for the fuel injected (mpfi anyways) cars. Are you running tbi or carb?? If you have mpfi, DO NOT INSTALL
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Old 01-07-2003, 12:22 PM   #7
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Or even easier.. you can REMOVE the FUEL PUMP fuse... that's a bit easier than disconnecting the fuse pump.

Usually, the most sophisticated minds forget the simplest things.. heheh.
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Old 01-07-2003, 01:14 PM   #8
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Slow 2.8, if your Not comfortable with this DO NOT do it!!! Your playing with gas! It's EZ to do but, if your Not sure, bring it somewhere. If your going to do it, make sure the car is cold, the filter is close to the exhaust pipes. Don't have a drop light to close, gas can touch the bulb. Have rags around.
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:44 PM   #9
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i got it all! thanks for the help, i have a tbi, mpfi so i guess i can't get those nifty clear ones, that sux
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:50 PM   #10
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Don't drop any wrenches, either... drop a wrench onto the ground below and you can get a spark. Do this outside. I usually wind up sticking goggles on, and putting my arm inside a garbage bag when I change the fuel filter- that gasoline BURNS! Ouch!
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Old 01-07-2003, 08:59 PM   #11
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thanks tom, do you have any good ideas for which filter for me to buy?
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Old 01-07-2003, 10:47 PM   #12
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Go to autozone or pepboys and ask them for the one for your car. They will pull it up on the computer and take you right to it. Can't go wrong with a direct replacment.
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Old 01-08-2003, 08:14 AM   #13
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Man.. I guess I'm just nuts... when I change a fuel filter, I'm usually too lazy to get a rag or anything. I usually just let it dump all over my arm, and I struggle with tools, there's fuel everywhere... I'm just a dumbass now that I think about it!

Never had anything blow up yet though!

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Old 01-08-2003, 09:03 AM   #14
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Best Filters are FRAM!!! Just go to the track and see what just about everybody uses. I only use FRAM products.
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Old 01-09-2003, 03:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by mvftw
Best Filters are FRAM!!! Just go to the track and see what just about everybody uses. I only use FRAM products.
Heh, most people hate Fram with a passion.....for whatever reason I don't know.

Either way, I've never seen any proof of 1 fuel filter being better than another.
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Old 01-09-2003, 07:21 AM   #16
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I hate FRAM oil filters with a passion . I think if I had a choics of using a toilet paper roll or FRAM , Id prabably choose the toilet paper roll ! (NOT REALLY !!!) , but its almost that bad ! ...As for FRAM fuel filters , I wouldn't buy one !!!! I use purolater oil filters . Im almost 99% sure its a purolator fuel filter I have on my car and Im satisfied . Im still on my same fuelpump with 196,000 miles !!!!! I hope I don't jinks myself by typing that ! It's about time for my fuel filter change though , its been about 3 years !
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:10 AM   #17
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It's amazing people running $5K-$50K motors use Fram filters, but I guess a 6 cyl is special, check what the big boys use, before you put Fram down. One of the first things I check out on a car that I'm looking to buy is the filter, if it's a Fram, I know he went out of his way to get a good filter. If it's a group 7 or cheap one, I walk away.
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:16 AM   #18
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What I do know about Fram Filters is...

1) With my 1984 Fiero 2m4 SE...

Whenever I had a FRAM filter in there (three times), when I would start the car in the morning (about 60 degrees), the engine would rattle up top for about 20-30 seconds (with 5W-30 synthetic.)

When I then switched to original AC DELCO, or the Purlator Micro somthing or other, the rattling stopped. I then switched back to a FRAM filter one day because they ran out of the purlator ones, and the rattling came back on start-up.

So, the next day, I went to another place and got a Purlator.

That's ALL that I know about Frams, and I'm NEVER going back to one. From now on, it's either Purlator Microfilters, or original AC DELCO.
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by mvftw
It's amazing people running $5K-$50K motors use Fram filters, but I guess a 6 cyl is special, check what the big boys use, before you put Fram down. One of the first things I check out on a car that I'm looking to buy is the filter, if it's a Fram, I know he went out of his way to get a good filter. If it's a group 7 or cheap one, I walk away.
I have blown 2 motors with FRAM filters . I was driving my Dad's 96 grandprix when the motor blew. When it was in the shop , the mechanic said "the fiter was clogged up bad " ......My car , when I blew the motor , sam story , filter clogged up bad ! The shop that does my work is prabably the best shop in ALL OF LOUISIANA . It is the best in Baton Rouge . They also use top quality parts ! My car has been taken to them sence I got it in 95 . When I never changed my oil there was never a FRAM filter put on the car , I remember getting up under my car a few times to look at the filter and remember "why should I care ?" I was just curious at the time .I also go buy, "you get what you pay for " well FRAM is the cheapest I have seen on the market .'' If I was buying a used car and checked a filter and found a FRAM , I'd run like hell if I was you !!!! And a few more things , my oil has been cleaner looking sence I have been using purolater filters . I also like filters that aren't complete cardboard on the inside like Fram . I have never seen FRAM on any racecar and I have been to the track plenty of times .
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Old 01-09-2003, 10:45 AM   #20
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I read somewhere that FRAM filters do NOT have a filter by-pass.

The filter by-pass being that, if the filter is clogged, a valve opens (from pressure) and allows the oil to flow past it, essentially not using the filter anymore.
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Old 01-09-2003, 11:04 AM   #21
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Fram is kind of my third choice filter based on both testing and personal experience

here's my list of favs

1) NAPA Gold best filtering quality known (Silvers suck though don't buy them)

2) AC Delco only because it's a GM Subsidiary company

3) Fram I just don't trust those douche (Deutch) ones

4) Roll of toilet paper (better than a motorcraft)
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Old 01-09-2003, 01:36 PM   #22
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FRAM??! Hell NO!!! That's NOT a good filter!!!!

The original link is gone, but I found someone that (thoughtfully) has a copy of the original page. Too bad they didn't get the Allied Signal employee letter, though. http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...ilfilters.html

This caused quite a stir 4 or 5 years ago among everyone. And now NOBODY uses a Fram for a car they care about. The radioactive-orange case isn't worth it.

I use AC oil filters on my car. I use an PF-52 on the engine, and a PF-1 on the remote trans filter. If I can't find AC filters, I'll use Purolator.

And as a reminder, nobody should use the PF-47 on an 82-87 2.8. Use the PF-52's, like the 88-92 2.8/3.1's are spec'd for. You'll need to use 4.5 quarts oil instead of 4 quarts, but it's that extra 1/2 quart that fills the larger filter.
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Old 01-09-2003, 03:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by mvftw
It's amazing people running $5K-$50K motors use Fram filters, but I guess a 6 cyl is special, check what the big boys use, before you put Fram down. One of the first things I check out on a car that I'm looking to buy is the filter, if it's a Fram, I know he went out of his way to get a good filter. If it's a group 7 or cheap one, I walk away.
They went out of their way?? FRAM is the most common carried filter I've seen around here, not to mention not very pricey! Walmart here has ONLY Fram filters...which is why I don't buy filters from there! I've had no personal experience to justify this..but with how many people here claim against them and how adimant they are, I'm avoiding them...
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Old 01-09-2003, 03:09 PM   #24
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I read that oil filter review that Tom posted a while back, and it's got some pretty good info. Everyone should read it.
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Old 01-09-2003, 05:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nixon1
Walmart here has ONLY Fram filters...which is why I don't buy filters from there!
Yeah, but they also sell SuperTech, a lil cheaper than FRAM, any experiences? It's a black filter.

For oil i would go to WalMart, ends up being like $3 cheaper for a change if I had gone there for the valvoline maxlife instead of Pep Boys.

I've stayed away from FRAM, I even went with a PENNZOIL one since Kragen was out of the ACDelco PF 52s. It clogged on me once and ruined my oil pressure sensor.

As a response to the fuel filter, Pep Boys has the right fuel filter (Purolator). Its $12.99 plus tax. And yes have a fire extinguisher or a hose on hand, just in case.
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Old 01-09-2003, 05:58 PM   #26
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just a tip i do. stick a wratchet with a socket on down the Gas tank door to prop it open all the way and the socet will grab onto the outside of the fule door to help keep it open. im sure everyone already knew this But just for the new guy or anyne that done
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Old 01-09-2003, 08:37 PM   #27
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Yes, I'm very curious about SuperTech filters. Doubt they're any good. I used SuperTech oil when I was leaking...no problems with that, but obviously I never ran my entire car on it and not for long either. I leaked about a quart every week to two weeks...so you can see why I had to buy cheap oil!
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Old 01-09-2003, 09:19 PM   #28
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just a little info i picked up for ya can't remember where

Fram filters are commonly used in racing because they have a lower filtrarion rating (in microns) the lower the rating the bigger the particles allowed to flow through it, easier flow is reduced drag on the oil pump thus all in all the goal of a race car is reduced drag on every mechanical part to create the most power possible in theory this filter would ensure good oil flow and help the engine perform (now that's something i'd like to see on a dyno test )

But

Also a side effect of this is the lower filtration rating is more crap getting through the filter back into the engine in turn decreasing the life of the engine

I dunno really I just like NAPA Gold I know they work if other brands work for you guys i'll belive you as long as the filters on a camaro or firebird I don't really care

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Old 01-09-2003, 09:43 PM   #29
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Makes sense to me. I think the thought of them is that they just need to keep the big crap out for the one run. As long as they are gonna rebuild the motor after the day is done, why worry about the little things that will take 3K miles to build up and worry about.

Just a thought. I use the purilator on my car. Still on the original fuel and oil pump at 200K.
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