Everybody post your favorite power adding mods for under $50 here. And not under $50 cause your uncle know this guy who knows the owner of a junkyard or something. Guess I'll start. I just made an air intake system, my first real mod. An 8" cone K&N online for $36 and free shipping, $8 for three pieces of adjustable aluminum pipe, and $4 for rubber seals. So $48 for an intake system suckin up alot of cold air from the bottom of the engine block. So what are yalls cheap power addin mods? Like alot of you, I'm a poor college student and won't have a job till the summer, so I'm kinda limited in what I can get right now. Well, let's hear your cheap mods..

1. A two-stage major tuneup. Buying quality parts and doing all the work yourself will wind up for a total cost of about $100, which could be done in two weekends if you only have $50/week. I still don't understand why any f-body owner neglects this.

2. Aftermarket spark coil, for more power at higher rpm's- at least for the 2.8's, with the higher powerband. You could even wire up a $20 Blaster II instead of buying a $50 plug-in coil.

3. Hog out the exhaust donuts, between the y-pipe and manifolds. Cost is $0. Felt an improvement even though I didn't think I would.

4. Set of polyurethene end-links, one set per sway bar, $14/set at summitracing.com. Part #s, ENS-9-8117R for red bushings, ENS-9-8117G for black. Firms up cornering like you wouldn't believe.

I guess my fav mod was porting and polishing my plenum and making a custom emblem to replace the 2.8 multi one. In all i'd say it costed me 40.00 to do all what I needed, polishing supplies, electricity, and luckly the emblem part was free since I did it at college

I've never worked with exhaust before...how do you actually do this?

Quote:

4. Set of polyurethene end-links, one set per sway bar, $14/set at summitracing.com. Part #s, ENS-9-8117R for red bushings, ENS-9-8117G for black. Firms up cornering like you wouldn't believe.

Don't have a clue what these look like or whre exactly they go. Would I get install instructions if I bought these? How easy are the two things above to do?

85sport....did you polish it by hand or did you have to buy some power tool

.. seat covers, steering wheel cover, pedals!

power adding mods

those could be Type R seat covers, steering wheel cover, pedals. that would be a power mod :sillylol:

but seriously, all the pcv tube & bends, rubber couplers & the filter probably cost about $50.

Free: check tire pressure

Check belt(s)


and please don't have TomP explai again that donut gasket story. It was bad enough just trying to visualize what he wrote w/o having any of it in front of you to look at. Mkes more sense when you have the donuts "gaskets" & t-pipe in front of you.

porting and polishing 081 heads $25 for the supplies

headman headers 100.00

dynomax cat back 160.00

removing all smog stuff

Holley carb from e-bay $46.00

Holley street dominator intake 150.00

doing the work myself priceless......well with the help of some of my friends on Third gen.org

underdrive pullys 50 bucks belt 10 bucks nice mod
CAI 40 bucks

$50 buck worth of aviation fuel add a good deed of HP. Fullerton airport here in So. Cal shuts down manned attendants after 10pm but you can pull up to the pumps and access them after hours with a creditcard "Ancient Chinese Secret" around these parts. Not the most legal thing to do here in Calif., elsewhere I'm sure its legal.

pulleys... about 50 buck, the belt was free.
160 t-stat would be a nice one i think... dun have it yet tho
i'm getting 19lb fuel injectors for about 20 bucks
fiero valve covers for cheaper
corvette fuel pump... might be about 50 bucks

I can relate to you on the poor college student part.


Obviously making your own CAI with a K&N Filter is one of the best.


Tuneup


That is all I can think of that is under $50 that really makes a difference.


I crave some bolt-ins now, like cam, and roller rockers. Time to open my wallet up a bit more.

I only use power tools to get the best possible job done.

well that probably raised the $40 up a good bit, getting the tools for it.

FROM THE KING OF UGLY!
Adding a used 3.4 AC Delco Cat convertor FREE!
Adding my better airflow intake set up to the Firebird About $8, including used K & N Filter
Rebuilding your distributor - FREE
Adding Accel coil $36 + 8.25% sales tax
Vacuum hose routing fix - $1-3 for the windshield wiper hose used for patch job
Used Arvin Z-28 2 1/2" muffler at the half price sale of Pick Your part $37 + core charge (not counting installation of $35!)
Used Tires, $15 for one, $40 for the current back pair, $20 for the next back tire replacements, $35 for one front (expect to sell the Chevy 15 X 7 ralley wheel for $30, tho!)
Fixed overheating by-
Used radiator for $30
Fixed air dam for free - used home roof rain gutter for temp air scoop/dam - works great! - until I install the new/used front nose piece I have!
NEW Accel spark plug 8.8 wires for price of mailing into Accel for warranty replacement about $5
I'm pretty much outta ideas, unless ya wanna add in the brake disc pad replacment for free (Lifetime warranty by Raybestos!)
Of my ideas, the best is rebuilding your own distributor for free - oh add in the $1.50 for using the Chevy Small Block Distributor gasket.
FORGOT my distributor hold down stud set up, that cost big $1.75 for the bolt whose head I chopped off, so it was easier to reinstall my distributor hold down bracket.
FORGOT SOME MORE
Timing chain - $30!
Tensioner - $10
Water pump - $19
Balancer snout reapair sleeve - $4
Timing chain Gasket kit - $25
NEW EGR OF $33
NEW radiator hoses of $15 each
Front fenders of $20 each (Pick Your Part 1/2 price day sale!)
Rear Bumper cap - $35 (same sale!)
I think I'm done.
Yet, I can always add the interior I removed form a 1987 Camaro that goes into my 1985 Firebird - Free
TRANNY MOUNT, too - $10

I'd say a Throttle Bodie Bypass.....Ram Air Boxes (TPI)....Air Foil....

LOL!! Yeah, it is a pain to explain. Basically, there's a sharp ridge in the middle that should be ground down. It's a restriction. I used a metal rat-tail file on the ridge, then cleaned it up with my air die grinder. I found the pictures I took when I did it; and they came out like total crap. When I get around to making my website (laughs), when I scan them in, I'll try playing around with the brightness/contrast of the scan.

A good set of aftermarket high-perf. brake pads would be less than $50, for most brands. Better braking performance and better safety to boot!

Although not a true 'performance' bolt on, replace your tranny mount with a polyurethane one. It should be about $35 or somewhere in that price range.

Bigger sway bar from the junk yard pirated out of a Trans Am, Formula, Z28 or Iroc, along with poly end links and bushings. Should be 50-60 dollars for that mod, depending on what you pay for the sway bar to begin with.

Wonderbar from an Iroc, if you can find one. I don't know what they sell for, and this is a mod I would like to do sometime, if I can find the parts.

Advance your timing to 12 degrees BTDC. Free mod that should add a little bit of kick. If you back it up much, you will probably have to run high octane gas.

Although again not a true 'performance' mod, get a set of Fiero valve covers with the hold down bolts, paint them and put them on. I recently bought a set for 20 dollars. Get some gaskets, some paint, and you should come out for about 30-35 dollars total.

Take everything unnecessary out of the car that adds weight. Although I have not done anything to this end, it would be free, and would definitely help in handling, braking, and acceleration.

That's about all I can think of for the amount of money that has been set as the standard.

Nope since I already had everything I needed.

Best free mod in the world: Coolant line throttle body bypass

So you've actually felt an increas of power w/ the TB bypass? I've heard alot of people that said it felt the same.

All home made

Isn't that kind of wimpy for a V8- I mean heck- My V6 TB and Plenium has larger openings than that- Thankyou now go home.

AGood2.8:
Concidering I have a STOCK car, the throttle body opening is the least of my concerns. I COULD get it bored out to a 52 or 58mm, but would it REALLY be worth it....um...not with the mods I have. I would see greater gains through a set of headers or porting out the stock heads. I increased flow into the throttle body for $3.00....what do you expect? I believe this thread was asking for fav cheap mods....I think thats pretty cheap considering an aftermarket airfoil cost $35-60!!!

For V6's- look what forum you are in

radiateu2

Where did you get your headers?

Damn, chill out. So he posted in the wrong forum, I'm sure you've never made a mistake before either huh?

Ancient Chinese Secret, huh? That does sound like something an import driver would do to boost horsepower.

Aviation fuel....what's the octane on that stuff?? Lol...completely different chemical compound(s) than regular gas I assume?

My favorite cheap mod, hands down, is CAI. Did it for maybe $80...that price includes a LOT of spare parts. I went through three different CAI assemblies, mind you. Now on the Stang, I got the system down...$40 even for EVERYTHING to install in-fender CAI. Boo-yeah. Gotta love it.

Why yes, wiseguy, I put it in my r*ce import race Vette all the time.

Suggesting that as a cheap performance mod is not right. It can be detrimental to the performance of a car if not used for the appropriate application. Please excuse my sarcasm, but I thought it was a ridiculous suggestion. Like you said, the car you use for racing (which hopefully has a very high compression) can benefit greatly from it. A street car will not see any performance benefits. Also, that fuel isn't exactly cheap. Get it?

No I don't , Why don't you explain it to me further since you are so old and wise. You want quick power kid, try a tank- you don't have to run it all the time.

I was told that jet fuel is actually lower octane the regular gasoline. I was wondering if this was true?

Avgas 100LL is the same exact gas that Union76 gas stations use to pump years ago known as Leaded Super 100 Octane. The lead ( Tetra-Ethyl) makes the motor run more efficiant and powerful. You can not run this too often unless you remove your catalytic convertor- It'll burn it up fast and you'll be buying a new one before your next smog check. I use to buy pure Tetra-Ethyl additive by the gallon out of Arizona when Calif first banned it years back. Its hard to come by now.

Hey Fast89Rs, Now do YOU get it? Might I suggest you stay in college a little longer, your still wet behind the ears. Its not always about compression, timing, and octane.

Okay, so is Jet fuel 100 octane? I am still not sure if you answered my question or not. I am just uncertain if all aviational fuel is 100 octane. I know if you pour in raw jet fuel into your engine you will melt your pistons, so I am assuming that aviation fuel must have something different about it.

Joe, jet fuel is different- also their are many types of jet fuel. Avgas has a fuel known as JetA that I believe is lower octane but is more of a highly flamible Kerosene based fuel. I would no way advise using that. I'm talking use of more traditional gasoline fuels used in all standard automobiles of days past- mostly stuff that was phased out before most of you younger guys were born.

See I know not to use jet fuel. I was just trying to find out if it was lower octane. Everyone is always like "I would love to know the octane level on that." But I thought it was infact lower, and like you said kerosene based.

Thanks again Agood2.8

It doesn't take an "old" person to know this. You clearly don't know what you're talking about. If you use an octane higher than you need to prevent knock, it will not help the performance of your engine and will possibly make less power because the fuel burns SLOWER!!!!

I also found a website for you to look at:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/fuel_..._vs_power.html

I especially like this quote: "Does using a fuel with higher octane numbers automatically make more power?
Not unless they are preventing "knock"."

Now, do you get it?

Your right, just keep your car stock and keep running your crappy gas. I'm not going to waste my time with you anymore.

Now I got a question as to why this stuff works better......let's say even if it is higher octane, what would allow it to produce more power...a more complete powerful burn when it did combust? Or does it carry more oxygen with it?

Who said anything about keeping my car stock? It's anything but it right now. Listen, if you think you're right, then argue with me until you convince me you're right. As of now, it just looks like you're giving up. Provide me with some proof. Convince me!! I'm not that stubborn that I won't give in if you make a valid point. But, you haven't. You havent provided me with anything but insults.

I just saw a reply you made about tetra-ethyl. Let's just clarify that adding this compound (which is not a fuel) only increases the octane rating. It does not make the fuel any more explosive or powerful. It is simply used as an anti-knock agent.

I see a lot of people posting stuff about custom air intakes. I was taking a real close look at the intake on my car the other day, and man, for the size of the filters and the intake tube, the baffles before the filter are weak. I'm thinking of doing a sort of ram air from the bottom front of the car to get that air blowing through the baffles. I've already ordered some K&N filters. They'll cost me about $60-$70CAD which probably comes in less than $50USD.

AGood2.8:
I don't understand why you have to be an a$$hole to everyone? These message boards are created to learn things, and meet people...not to be a jerk, and act like you have something to prove. I am sorry I posted in a "V6" thread...you could have been polite, and siad "hey bro, descent mods, but this was specific to V6". Your kinda out of line...

All I got to say, is leaded gas will eat your injector o rings. I know this from experience.

Thanks for the heads up

We get alot of v8 guys coming in here and starting arguments; he probably thought you were doing the same. We're a touchy crew over here!

Actually i'm surprised no v8'er came into this message and said "drive your car off a cliff, it'll go faster, and it's free to do" yet.

now now children lets not start! who the **** cares about gas enough to argue about? my favorite mod is the weight reduction!

Weight reduction rocks. But, it can be taken too far.

If this thread keeps up, it should by sticky-fied. There's alot of useful stuff in here.

As far as weight reduction, don't bother removing the padding from the carpet. When I replaced my carpet with new stuff, made by ACC, sold by http://www.1aauto.com for the cheapest price, I separated the padding from the old carpet, just to see how much it weighed. Well, it weighed about 5 pounds or less! Might as well just clean out the glove compartment, or take all the CD's out of your car... it's not worth all the trouble. Yes, I left the padding on the new carpet.