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V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

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Old 08-29-2004, 06:09 PM   #1
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About shift points on the automatic 2.8 v6

Hey i was just wondering if someone messed with the car to make it alittle faster but when i put it all the way to the floor.. she screams so loud all the way up to a perfect 65000 rpms... were they meant to shift right on the 65 rpm line??
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Old 08-29-2004, 06:56 PM   #2
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nope....that's valve float territory unfortunately. When the motor stops pulling is where you should shift. I think peak HP on the 2.8 is like 5600R's...i'd have to look. Look it up in tech data.
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Old 08-29-2004, 06:59 PM   #3
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i always shift before 5500 if i'm giving it ****
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Old 08-29-2004, 06:59 PM   #4
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oh shat!!

how do you think someone got it to do this.. cause it probably does slow me down at the high rpm range huh... trust me she whines!!! also how can i fix it to shift at a shorter rpm
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Old 08-29-2004, 07:01 PM   #5
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ITS AN AUTOMATIC I CANT HELP IT SHIFTING!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-29-2004, 11:54 PM   #6
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mine shifts that high too. always did it since i bought it with 40,000 miles on it

Last edited by 85berlinetta2.8; 08-29-2004 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 08-30-2004, 01:54 AM   #7
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You could adjust detent cable a bit.....do a search.
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Old 08-30-2004, 10:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
detent cable

I think you meen the TV Cable (Throttle Valve Cable) its one of the cables that connect to the linkage on your Throttle Body. Its the one that goes to the tranny... Its really easy to adjust. Take a flathead screwdriver and push in the button on the side of the cable where it connects to the TB. And push it in the whole way, then with the car off. Just push the gas pedal to the floor you will hear it click a few times and then its set.
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Old 08-31-2004, 07:09 AM   #9
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Wow. Actually, max power is, IIRC, @ 4800rpm on these little guys.
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Old 08-31-2004, 07:46 AM   #10
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At 6500 rpms on a stock 2.8 some things stop working.
Like the valve springs, the ignition has little spark power, some times the pistons fail, the bad lubercation system flaws show them selves in the form of spun rod bearings.
At those speeds pumping losses soak up a lot of your power too.
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Old 08-31-2004, 02:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by crazy3rdgen
ITS AN AUTOMATIC I CANT HELP IT SHIFTING!!!!!!!!!
Who says?

Want full control? Install a manual valvebody; but it'll be hell for the street (so I don't recommend it).

Shift points are determined NOT by the throttle valve cable, but by the governor in the tailshaft of the trans. Something might be sticking in the governor. You could pull it and clean it. If you want to adjust your upshift points, use the B&M governor recalibration kit. Use http://www.summitracing.com part number BMM-20248 , and find more info on it at http://www.bmracing.com/products/kit...vRecalKit.html .

Someone out there is gonna say "No, the TV cable controls shifts"- but that's wrong. The TV cable does affect shifts, but it doesn't control 'em. TV cable adjusts the line pressure (fluid pressure) inside the trans, and that is what the valvebody runs on- line pressure. So when line pressure changes, it does affect the shifts- but it doesn't control them.

You can also put in a shift kit. AVOID the B&M Shift Improver Kit (BMM-70239); it's known to hurt the trans in the long run. Also avoid the B&M Transpak (BMM-70235) even more than the Shift Improver Kit! The Transpak for our transmissions is just a shift improver kit with a trans filter! That's the only addition. Instead of these two, go with the TransGo Shift Kit, part number TRG-700 at summitracing.com - not only does it improve shifts, but it also helps the trans out. See http://www.transgo.com/gmauto.html and http://www.transgo.com/faq.html for more info.

An aftermarket shifter (I have the B&M Megashifter, part number BMM-80692 at Summit) is stronger than the flimsy stock piece, prevents you from missing a shift, and is more "fun"- but you don't need one.

If you do these mods, I also suggest a secondary external trans cooler and secondary external trans filter to keep your trans happy. The 700r4's (4 speed autos) in our cars run hotter than other transmissions by design, and the cooler you keep the trans, the longer it'll last. A trans temp gauge would round out your "keep it alive" package. Also, you'll want an Energy Suspension polyurethane trans mount ($20 from Summit), and if you add an Energy Suspension poly torque arm mount, you'll be set for the extra stress you'll be giving your drivetrain when you tromp on the gas.

Some bad news... a poorly shifting trans that "slams" into gear, without being modified to do so (shift kits), might be a sign that the transmission is on it's last legs. Check the trans fluid on the dipstick, it should be red, smell like oil, and feel slimy. If its brown, smells burnt, and feels gritty, then start saving coin for a rebuild.

Do like FBodTrek and 87CamaroMan said and adjust your TV cable; but FIRST, make a mark on the TV cable slider where it goes into the adjuster. This is important! It shows the current setup of your TV cable. Why? Well, I've adjusted TV cables on almost-dead trannies, and at proper adjustment, the trans is too worn to handle the correct line pressure- and shifting goes all to hell. So mark the cable first, Then adjust it, and go for a drive. If everything acts wacky and feels "wrong", pull over in a parking lot, and move the TV cable back to the original mark you made.

Oh and I've never gone above 6000 rpm on my 2.8...
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Old 08-31-2004, 05:20 PM   #12
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what exactley will the shift kit do for me? sounds like tom knows what hes talken about.. so tell me tom.. i dont think all that other stuff will do anything cause there isnt that much power come out of the little 2.8. also any pics to show exatley where that cable is before i go messing around with it.
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Old 08-31-2004, 05:20 PM
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