Ok lets get back on topic,open a thread about foglights if you wanna talk lights...lol...j/k Quote: Originally posted by Gumby Its also the official filter of the NHRA so It has to be good And do you guys think that Michael Jordan eats ball park franks..lol? I use to use 10-40 valvoline max life with the fram oil filter but one day had some extra loot and got the k/n oil filter and bought some 20 -50 valvoline racing oil (like the one Gumby said he used)and have been going with that combo ever since.I feel my engine run much better and dont have too check the oil as often either. Im anal too and I change it every 3000 miles on the dot .

those cold-arc bulbs are simply bulb replacements? requiring no ballast or anything? it seems possible but I have never heard of them

this would be awesome, I want revenge on on all those damned hid people

either by getting those arcing ones or hids, unless they are the same thing but that's my revenge

If you want revenge. What you need are some 500watt strobe lights. Let it pop on and off just a few times and watch people drive off the road blind.

Not a month goes by and I wish I had brights on my back bumper. So I could blind the dude behind me, blinding me.

well I am planning on upgrading the reverse bulb+wiring on my car... going to put in headlamp bulbs... gonna be friggin awesome...

I should make it so a switch lights those bad boys up! in 'bright' mode of course!

Thats why people run their brights behind you.
No way you can flash em back.

No one likes driving and being blinded by light. Though some will do it if they can.

Had a friend like that. said he had to run brights all the time to see.

If you can't see, you shouldn't drive.

It's be cause I'm in Japan.
I know these are not regular filament bulbs.
Over here in Japan the Japinese will turn off there head lights at stop lights to be nice I guess.
You can tell so easy if they have those arc bulbs be cause when they turn them on they come on like a florsent light they flicker a bit and take a second to get to 100% brightness.
I'm going to get me one of those filter cutters next time I order from summit.

filter cutter?

I'm pretty sure the bulbs you're talking about are HID... everything you just described is exactly HID

HID? that could be it.
All I know for sure is how much I hate them .

Has any one ever seen the summit filter cutters?
summit part # SUM-900510 $39.95
Just looked them up, I thought they were more then that.
I was going to get one so I could cut them up and see if there are any engine parts stuck in it. And see if the oil filter is even cloged. Maybe it can help me decide when is best to change the oil and filter, to find the most # of miles that is safe for my engine so I can spend the least # of $ from my wallet.
If I'm changing my M1 and filter every 4500-5000 miles and the filter isn't even dirty maybe I could go longer, but I would have the oil anil-ized of course. (on my brand new 3.4L engine I plain to take perfect care of)
I put M1 in my toyota for the first time, it has 65,000 hard stop and go start and stop with out a full heat cycle miles (hey it's norhtern japan). The guy that had it before me didn't change the oil often enough be cause the valve cover is full of carbon.
Now I put about 500 miles on this oil and I have lost about 15psi of oil pressure so far. That is when I would know to change it with regular oil after about 3000 miles, but it's still new oil.
I bet the oil filter is getting all cloged up the junk the M1 is cleaning out. She's sprung a few tiny leaks too.
In the next few days after I beat on it a little more I'll probly throw on a new filter and see if that fixes it.
Maybe I will bust the old one open and see it's insides.

I think I'll get HID's for my fog lights, then, if I really need bright lights, I'll actually pop up my headlights and use 'em

thats a great idea i may put one of those in my oil pan of my towncar when i build its engine. or do you just have it stuck to the bottom of the pan?

oilpan4 maybe those are projector headlights you are referring to. i like those alot, bmw's and audi;s have them

I change my M1 filter every 6000 miles or every other oil change since i know they are good for at least 10,000 miles i heard.

What do you think about the 15,000 mile mobil 1 oil i dont know if i would trust it i would try it but i bet it would void any warranty on my altima if i went 15,000 miles with out a oil change

Inside, out side, don't matter. As long as its away from moving parts and wont get knocked off. Inside is probably better as you really don't want it moved ever. So the metal stuck to it stay put. I have mine jammed in between the back of the oil pan and the tranny inspection cover. So any metal is stuck to the back bottom of the pan. Kind of tucked away.

Chunks of metal arnt gonna ruin an engine. its them tiny pieces that get between the bearings. Magnets are good.

If you toss one in the pan even better you get more surface aera and you can trap more metal. If not stick one on the out side, it's better then nothing.

do you guys use neodymium magnets, or what? I never thought of put a magnet in there... hrm...

what about in the transmission and in the rear end?

id use a magnet, but my entire engine is alum.... trans and rearend too....

only place i have to stick a magnet would be on the oil filter itself.

I just use regular cheap magnets. You can find em at radio shack, Kmart or the hardware section. They are like 2in long, 1in wide, 1/2in thick. nice for the job.

You could use them neodymium ones but id be more careful. Ya don't wanna go over board and magnetize anything. There is a red light trigger one sold online for bikes. Its like a 6in square, 2in thick, neodymium magnet. Super duper powerful.
But will trip the lights for motorcycles.

Not sure if Id stick one on my oil pan.

It would probably make the whole motor into a magnet. Magnetized crank wouldn't be good.


Ill attach a pic. I epoxied one to a side cover for my bike. Used it as it had a mounting peg, instead of a hole. So I made it a stick.

Oh and yea I put em everywhere.

Oil, tranny, rear end pan, gas tank, fuel filter, oil filter, anywhere it can be useful at grabbing n holding tiny particles of metal. They cost nothing and it ain't gonna hurt. It could only help.

I often take peoples bad speakers to beat em up for the magnet.
One swift hit and they come right off, whole.

Got several 10-12in speaker mag's on my shed wall for holding tools I use often.

I was looking at getting N48 magnets off ebay but figured that that $29 could be the difference in getting a 3.4 short block and not have enough to get the options I want. Like hypereutectic pistons and chromium alloy rings.
The small Neodium magnets on ebay are sold in lots 99% of the time, for the smaller ones that you would toss in an oil sump or stick to a rear end cover.
I'm not sure how much shipping will be so I am not going to chance it and have 100% of the money for every thing on hand.

so you gotta make sure glue the magnet in place? other wise it might come lose and take out your motor, right?

Oh no. Its a magnet. It aint gonna move if on steel.
That side cover is plastic. Was just a pic showing the size.

I have taken apart plenty of rear ends and trasmissions with magnets in there pans from the factory and there was nothing holding them in place but there magnetic attraction.

oil isn't quite oil man

some have not so nice things in there like ash and stuff that leaves nice deposits. others have too much of the good addatives that also can leave deposits when they get used up and such so shove that in your oil pump

over at the rx7club.com there was a guy who got ahold of the MSDS or whatever it is that list what is in the product and so on


basicly it is nothing more then mineral oil and a few detergients if I remember right

i know its now a fog light forum but i was wondering about something. i just changed my oil, valvoline max life 5w 30 and a fram filter and ive got some mmo....how much mmo should i put in? ive got the small 16 0z bottle. i wish i didnt get the 5 30 now though, should have got 10 30 or something huh? i dont leak at all i just went by whats on the cap under the engine. what means its thicker...10w 30 or 5w 30? or is it the 40 and 50 that makes it thicker.....people mixed me up..i thought it was the 10 or 5. i didnt know frams were so bad, i thought they were sopposed 2 be good??

Use the whole 16oz bottle

I buy the 32oz instead though. usually only $1 more for twice as much. 16oz for oil and 16oz for your gas.

It a good idea to use it in both. The gas more often then the oil as gas get used up quicker. Every other tank full is good. Upper cylinder lube, keeps stuff clean, lubs your intake fuel pump..........

I get the 5 QT bottle for 8 bucks at walmart.

alright..im gonna add it to my oil 2morrow because its tapping anyhow...the stuff just freaks me out u know?.. u can use it in my oil and gas?? its wierd stuff..but..everyone loves it! i'll add it in the oil 2morrow! thanx

I just got back from the local hardware store,went there to get some mix for the chain saw and weed eater and they had a stack of MOBIL 1 15w-50 on sale for $1.97 a quart i think I will try that in the camaro when I get the oil pan replaced.
I think I will go get a few more cases tomorow,my 72 chevy cheyenne super w/350 would probably like some also,I'am currently running ROYAL PURPLE 10-40 in it but think I will go with the 15w-50 since I run the sh!t out of that poor old truck
And it will be easier on me,wont have to remember what type of oil I was using in each rig.
Bob

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...light=mmo+data

here is one of the links I was refering to


if you look at the ingredients


kerosene and mineral spirits

don't see how a mineral spirit is going to be that much of an improvement over normal motor oil other then it's thinner so might get to places a little better
and the kerosene might break down some sludge which kerosene is what they use in most engine flushes anyway

The dealer recommended to use castrol 10w40 on my motor, since it has 73k original miles.

Never seen it before.

MMO has an oil only additive. Not thin like the gas/oil ones.