I did the rear STB today. - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

Gumby · 02-09-2006, 05:04 PM

I did the rear STB today. Kind of had to. The shock towers are just spot-welded to the rear sheet metal. [Well mine are welded right now but still to sheet..] N E ways my fuel pump wouldn’t prime for some reason so I know the drill. No way am I taking out the rear end for just that. Use the air chisel to cut the center section out. Found it was the plug that goes through the body panel there under the carpet. So of course my fuel pump works fine now.

But now I have compromised the integrity of the rear sheet metal section. So I had no choice but to finally install a rear STB that is much stronger then some stamped formed sheet metal. I put her through the paces and it works great. Also was able to put it behind the back seat. So its not real visible or taking up hatch room. Just got to firmly raise up the back seat and it will latch just fine.

Though I will fix the sheet metal right and make a removable panel for it later.
But not today. Soon as some folks get home Ill get the camera and take some pics.

STB was a front STB for a 95-98 eagle talon. Chromed aircraft aluminum.
Got it for $12 cause it has scratches on the backside. Really had no idea if it would fit but it had an interesting shallow shape and was cheap. Though they don’t show the right pic, you can find them on Ebay for $25 shipped. But it’s defiantly too small for the front of a 3rd gen.

item=8037300878

Dale · 02-09-2006, 09:36 PM

pics?

Gumby · 02-09-2006, 10:03 PM

Got dark by time I found out where the camera was.
Close shot of the bracket are to bright or dark.

Bar came with two big circle mount with a bolt hole in just the right spot for the shock bolt. Ill get a pic of the mount bracket tomorrow. But will probably tach weld them to the shock tower also.

Gumby · 02-10-2006, 04:39 AM

I could of made a 3-4 point one that stuck out like a sore thumb that screamed "look at me" I got a rear STB.

but I still haul junk back there now n then and I didn't want it to be r1cer obvious.

Dale · 02-10-2006, 10:00 AM

Hum, so seat has to be down.

I assume you used the outter bolt holes, and just put it on top the shock? Or under the rubber pads?

I also dont think having a STB is considered "*****". To me its almost a necessity on a unibody car.

Gumby · 02-10-2006, 10:22 AM

No the seat doesn't need to be down. Just can't see it very easy when its up. [speak of the seat down, my A is killing me. Sitting on my heels, kneling on the seat, feels like a got kicked by a mule.]

Ill get pic of the mounting bracket later.

Gumby · 02-10-2006, 12:22 PM

Here is the right side bracket how its sits. Mounting rings were big circles and this bolt hole just happen to line up. Drilled them 4 holes for when I weld it to the shock tower. You could I guess run it above or below the rubber if you wanted. Might also kinda triangle off the front face.

Dale · 02-10-2006, 12:36 PM

Seat will still flip up n latch with it in there?

Back of the seat must be softer then I thought.

Gumby · 02-10-2006, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dale
Seat will still flip up n latch with it in there? Back of the seat must be softer then I thought.

Yep it latches with a firm push. Though no one rides back there.
I only have 3 seats installed. My sub box bolts to the seat mount behind me. Never felt safe with it in the hatch and didn't want it bolted down there. 6x9 box takes up the rear hatch hole.

Gumby · 02-11-2006, 09:08 AM

Can anyone give me a clue on where to find the oil pressure switch and the colors of wires it has on the 2.8?

Need to rewire the fuel pump. a wire is lose or just bad. Had to wack the pump area to leave walmart yesterday. Which of cousre kicked the pump up to full power. Something is lose or flaky but not the pump.

Was gonna wire it like a carb'ed car. Just use the oil psi switch to run the pump with a back up manual switch.

I know wire back at the pump are black purple n tan?
purple is fuel, tan is + and black is earthy.

My book has run off and hide somewhere and I can't check it for info. Maybe someone can just scan the fuel wiring that shows the colors of wires n location.

Dale · 02-11-2006, 10:21 AM

OPS is down by your oil filter.

If you had to wack the fuel pump area, its a wire back there.

Goes along one of the rocker panels, then thru the back center of the car. Junction box in area pictured, then another short span of wires to the sending unit. Or thats how I recal mine being wired.

Gumby · 02-11-2006, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dale
OPS is down by your oil filter.

If you had to wack the fuel pump area, its a wire back there.

Goes along one of the rocker panels, then thru the back center of the car. Junction box in area pictured, then another short span of wires to the sending unit. Or thats how I recal mine being wired.

I think your skip reading my post because I said in the first post that I found the lose connection at the bulk head in the back but its not lose anymore, has to be just flaky. Why I want to replace the 20 year old wiring with all new so its right 100% for sure. Not just fixing old stuff.

Also said in the first post that the seat back latch fine with a firm push........

Glad your trying to be helpful but it would help more if ya read things a bit slower.

So n e ways I want to rewire it all with new wire and plan to just use the oil pressure switch [ for safety sake] and add manual back-up switch. I wont use the FP relay as I like that the motor or pump doesn't prime until I get oil PSI first.

Dale · 02-12-2006, 09:34 AM

I suck at reading, and admit it.

Thunderfest · 02-12-2006, 12:45 PM

Do you realise what this entire chassis wal 2-3inches away from your spreader bar is doing already? The only thing laterally that bar will aid is a side impact colision. It is not near any laterally affected suspension mounting points and is actually fighting and budging the side sheetmetal against the wall I have highlighted if preload is applied. It'll certainly help keep the rear passenger safe though so thumps up on that.

Gumby · 02-14-2006, 06:32 PM

Well looks like Im gonna buy a stocker replacement fuel pump. Even hot wired directly to the pump. - n + both bypassing the stock system, doesn't turn on the pump every time. Though just a few taps on the fuel lines and it kicks on.

99% sure its the stock 220k miles pump, should just change it.

neilb · 02-16-2006, 10:50 AM

So let me get this right... A front STB from an Eagle Talon will fit directly (with no to very little modification) onto the rear struts of a Third gen? Thats Awesome, cus my buddy has an extra front STB from his Eagle!! Maybe I can buy it off him...

Gumby · 02-16-2006, 11:36 AM

Yep, sure others would fit also........

Had a great sleep last night. Got done with all the new wiring.
[just waiting on new fuel pump.]

Best part was the hidden kill switch. No more needing to jump up ever time I hear a car like mine start up. Seems like everyone around me now has the same muffler and sound.

It will help me feel better about finishing up the paint job. Nicer n nicer my car gets, more n more some punk will wanna steal it.
Might have to airbrush some rust holes in it.

Gumby · 02-17-2006, 02:00 PM

Got the FP today and it’s a pretty simple install. Looks strange at first but it changed easy.
Rip old strainer off and there is a block thingy with a meal doam cover on the main fuel line.
It just slides up and the old one falls out. Just need a couple of wire connectors and its done.

I was gonna use flare fitting for the fuel line but by time the pump will need changed again, them suckers will be corroded PITA’es. So I’m just gonna use steel braided fuel line with double clamps like my fuel filter.

The odd part was I found a 2ft piece of garden hose in the gas tank.
Sometime in its life someone must of tried to siphon gas but the hose got stuck.
So they cut it off and jammed it inside. Had to of been there for a while, its rock hard now.

Gumby · 02-17-2006, 08:47 PM

Thought id toss this out there while I think of it.

Main reason I like steel braided line is cause it won't kink. You can do a decent turn without the hose bending over. For just a splice job, you really don't need it.

But here is a tip if ya can't avoid using rubber line and it wants to kink sort of on ya. Use a hose clamp in the middle of the bend to make the hose stay round. Works great

Gumby · 02-21-2006, 07:57 PM

I remember why I liked the hanging wire look......

I put the full under dash plastic back on my car, been off for 4-5 years. I forgot why till today. For a big guy like me, its the difference in enough leg room or not.

could barley work the clutch right with it on.
Had to pull off the side of the road and remove it.

Gumby · 12-28-2008, 12:35 AM

Someone had a question about this today, thats what I got in the rear.

In the front I have a Jamex $25 3rd gen bar, not a 3 point cowl brace bar that goes over the engine. As I run mine on the side of the shock tower but where the metal is still double thick. This lets me rotate the bar where its out of the way for my home made raim air into a stock hood using 68 Firebird scoops. It would of crushed and blocked it off if it ran over top. Still functions.