03-29-2006, 11:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: South Florida (NW_Broward)
Posts: 405
Car: 1989 Firebird Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4 | Starter information
Starter questions are something I see a lot of here, hope this helps.
Steps to replace the starter:
Let the car cool down and remove the positive battery cable.
On my 1989 2.8L the starter is held in with 2 long 15MM bolts that seem to be interchangeable. Once you back them out, the starter will fall onto the exhaust. Try and support it as you get the last bolt out.
Once its down you should have enough room to maneuver the starter around to get at the connections. There is a larger (size unknown) terminal holding the other end of the heavy positive battery cable. This same terminal should have at least one more cable that takes power to the rest of the car. There is another smaller (size unknown) terminal that has one small wire that is switched live when you hit start on the ignition. Typically there is a third terminal that is unused. Remove all cables, and take out the starter.
Easier said than done. It doesn't seem to be able to fit right away. I wish I could describe it better, but I've done so many its childs play to me now. I know it's confusing since I still remember the first time I did mine how long it took. You have to turn the starter a weird way and it will exactly fit along the frontside of the exhaust pipe.
Installation is the reverse, all you need to remember is how exactly you got it out from above the exhaust pipe, it will only fit back in that way.
Connect the wires first, then I like to tighten one bolt halfway, get the other one about halfway, then snug them up. You may or may not need to shim depending on your replacement part.
Problems:
Dead starter, no click, no run, no nothing, everything else in the car works.
1. VATS could be to blame. If your car has the chip in the key its possible that over time corrosion in the ignition switch, corrosion or dirt on the key, or many other factors can lead to the VATS tripping. If the problem is VATS your "security" light on the dash will either stay off, or stay on. Normally it should turn on for a few seconds, then turn off. VATS typically disables the starter and ignition system.
2. Dead battery. 'Nuff said.
3. Loose or corroded connections on battery or starter.
4. Dreaded heat soak. Especially if the car was just turned off. Heat from the exhaust transfers to the starter expanding some parts which make it inoperative until the car cools off some.
5. Neutral Safety switch (i.e. your car doesn't think its in park or neutral). Its in the console.
6. Failed Starter solenoid. (its on the starter itself.)
7. Ignition switch is faulty.
Definite click, no run, everything else seems fine in the car.
1. This could be an improperly shimmed starter. This is caused when the starter pinion doesn't engage properly to the flexplate teeth. They can hit end-on instead of in between. When this happens it takes a few tries to get the teeth back so they intermesh. Don't just drive the car like this, your solenoid will go bad quickly from the repeated starting attempts.
2. Insufficient battery capacity (partially charged battery). The solenoid engages, but the battery voltage dips way down when the starter tries to engage.
3. Locked up starter motor. Failed brushes inside the starter or gunk have accumulated in the motor. Its failed. You may get a few more starts by striking the motor with a mallet on its side or end on the little nipple that sticks out.
Click, run, no engine spin.
1. Broken flexplate or starter teeth. You'll have to look and see.
2. Incorrectly installed bolts have backed the starter away from the flexplate. | | |
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