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Old 07-09-2006, 11:48 AM   #1
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HOW TO: INSTALLING A TURBO

since theres always alot of ?'s on how to do this,what it will cost,what will be needed to do this ?'s im going to make up a thread on just how to do this,basically the same setup i have,which can be done by most with access to a welder,or if not a simple trip to the ex shop can be done to finish up the piping
it will take me a few days to make this whole how to so be patient.
as for right now i will start with a simple parts list,and add one from there as i organize my information and pictures,when it is finished hopefully i can get a mod to make this a sticky.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:09 PM   #2
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WHAT DO I NEED

#1 turbo charger - which one?
well this depends on ur total goals for ur engine.But i recomend a to4e stage 3 57 trim.its large enough for high boost.but isnt an all out race turbo.ive experanced 6psi by 2,400 rpms with this turbo and full boost 14psi by 3,100 rpms.these turbos can be bought on ebay for around 200$'s i went with a .63 ar on the hot side,and a .50 ar on the cold side.
ull also need a set of flanges inlet/outlet. u can make ur own or buy them pretty cheap


#2 wastegate/boostcontroller
u have 2 options internal or external.i cant help u with an internal wastegate,cause i didnt use one.nut i went with an 36mm external gate also off ebay.i recomend getting one with a 3.63 psi spring,so u can use a boost controller to control ur boost,the low psi spring alows u to turn ur boost way down to compensate for bad gas/improper tunning. can be had on ebay for around 80$'s for the wastegate,and around 5-20#'s for the boost controller


#3 silicone connectors
u will need various connectors but the sizes will depend on things like ur intercooler inlet and outlet sizes,and the turbo in/out sizes.But for intent and purposes i will assume u go with all the same things i did.
i ended up buying 3 of 2.5 inch couplers 3 3inch couplers, 1 3inch to 2.5 reducer,and 1 2inch to 2.5 inch reducer


#4 intercoolers
what u can use for birds/camaros will vary
i went with an volvo 740 intercooler which can be had on ebay for about 40$'s.they fit nice behind the grill in the camaro,and the way the inlet and outlets are are perfect.They are also more efficent then most of those 100-200$ aluminum intercoolers found on ebay.though the only down side i do see is that they have plastic end tanks.but ive had mine to 14psi so far and havent had any problems.


#5 BOV
u have 2 styles to chose from to atmosphere and recirculating
recirculating is recomended for maf equiped cars.with that said im running a to atmposphere bov on a maf car and have not had a problem.
but the choice is up to u.either will work.and is highly recomended on any car that will see around 7+psi.if u want the distinctive bov sound go with an to atmosphere valve,if u want to keep things nice and quiet go with a recirculating.
these can be had on ebay very cheap i paid around 35$'s for mine


#6 tubing
u will need around 8 2.5 inch bends(have to dbl check) 6 being 90* and 2 being 45*
and about the same in 2.25 inch tubbing (WILL DBL CHECK EXACT COUNT LATER)


#7 injectors - fmu- tunning
for cars staying around 7 psi u will need 19# injectors and an 4-1 or 6-1 fmu
th einjectors are stock on 305/350 tpi motors i believe the 350 are 21# but i can be wrong.can be had off ebay or the boards here pretty cheap
the fmu can be had off ebay for around 80$'s
or u can go with computer tunning-which eliminates the need for the fmu,but is fairly tricky and not many ppl will tune a v6 car,for all intents this howto will be done with an fmu and larger injectors


#8 misc peices
these would include gaskets/oil return/feed lines
feed line is recomended to be 3-4an line but no larger
oil return line is recomended to be 10-an or larger
the length of the lines will be determines on turbo placement/and were u can fi tthe oil return fitting in the side of the oil pan( i recomend right below the oil filter on the drivers side,as this has the most room to weld the fitting onto the pan)
lines/fittings can be purchased from a local speed shop(a lil pricey) or ebay also a lil pricey
an lines are just exspensive look to have about 50-100+ in just lines
besides the lines u need a 1/8 inch pipe t alone with 2 1/8 pipe to an fittings for the oil feed line
and u also need 1/2 pipe to 10 or 12 an fittings depending on the size lines u use
also i recomend getting a 3wire o2 sensor as i had some problems with the stock single wire
i used a walker 3 wire o2 and havent had any problems since PART NUMBER 250-23003 cost was about 55$'s from local parts store + 5$'s for the weld in bung


#9 cars looking for high boost hi power apps will need larger injectors and fuel pump
right now im using 24# svo injectors and a walboro 255 pump

Last edited by daves12secV6; 07-14-2006 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:15 PM   #3
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Preping the car for the install

Click the image to open in full size.
Alright so now u have all of the necasary parts so whats next?
well if ur gonna do the same setup i used the first things would be to get rid of some of the things that end up in the way

#1 windshield washer fluid resivor

#2 cruise control

#3 charcol can - when u remove this be sure to plug the line that runs back to the fuel tank for now

#4 ac lines - this is not necasary but makes the install go alot easier,- these can be removed carfully and reinstalled after the turbo has been put in.But will require u to get the ac system recharged

#5 stock air box

#6 lower air dam - this gets put back on the car at the end -though it has to be modified

#7 remove the maf and rubber hose going to the tb

Now that all the extra stuff has been removed from the car there is one last thing to do
a hole needs to be cut under were the charcol can and cruise control was.See picture below
Click the image to open in full size.

i belive i cut a 3.5 inch hole with a holesaw but ill have to measure it to be sure

Last edited by daves12secV6; 07-09-2006 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:23 PM   #4
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Starting the actual install

ok so now what to do ?
well the first thing is to install ur new injectors and afpr

step #1 unhook car battery

#2 remove throttle linkage and tv cable

#3 unhook all vacum lines on the tb and rear of the manifold

#4 remove bolts holding tb to manifold

#5 unbolt bracket from ac compressor to manifold - then remove reamining upper manifold bolts.Once th ebolts are out u can pick up the manifold on the driver side and move it out of the way with the egr tub still attached

#6 cover up intake runners with a rag to prevent anything from being droped into the engine

#7 disconect the fuel lines on the drivers side of the car were the rubber lines meet the lines going to the fuel rail.then disconect the lines from the rail itself and remove

#8 unbolt the bracket holding the throttle/tv cable.then carfully unplug the coolant temp sensor and the fuel injectors( u push in on the meatl wire clips to release.if u try prying them out u will more then likely lose the clips,and or break the connectors

#9 remove the final 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down.then pul up on the rail while wiggling it back and forth

#10 remove injectors from rail,install afpr according to ur specific manufaxctures directions,then reinstall new injectors into rail and reverse procces to put it back on
Click the image to open in full size.

ok im done for now lots more to enter/pics to add.and i still have to edit whats here incase i forgot anything or mixed up the order on anything
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Last edited by daves12secV6; 07-09-2006 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 07-09-2006, 04:57 PM   #5
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starting to put parts in

first thing to install is gonna be the intercooler.now if u got the same one i got u will have to bend up some aluminum channel and have it welded on the top and bottom of the intercooler.

now u have to cut out the brace that runs from the bottom of the bumper to the bottom of the hood latch

once that is done u can attach the intercooler behing the gril with steel straps and bolts/sheetmetal screws on the tops and bottom of the ic
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
now i made a big mistake when i put mine in. i set mine right under the hood latch.so when i tried to close the hood the saftey latch hit it and the hood wouldnt close.but it wasnt a big deal since i had a fiberglass bolt on hood.i just removed the saftey latch and got a set of aluminum hood pins.now if u have a stock hood ull want to make sure were ever u place the ic that it dosent interfer with the hoodlatch


the first pipe to build is gonna be the oulet of the intercooler to the throttle boddie.as u can see here i came out of the ic and make a right bend so the pipe ends up under the hole i cut earlier.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
once u get the pipe to look like the above picture u place an coupler onto the pipe below the hole.Cause if u make this pipe in one piece u wont be able to get it in or out of the car.

once u get the coupler on take ur next peice of pipe and slide it from the top into the connector,and gently tighten the clamp just enough so it dosent try to fall out.but still lose enough u can rotate the pipe back and forth.
Click the image to open in full size.
in that pic u can see how i ran the pipe from the tb twards the pipe comming threw the hole.
now the pipes arent the greatest fit because the bends i had werent tight enough to make a nice smooth turn.so i had to do some creative welding and making lil pieces to fill the gaps on some of the pipes
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
this is also the pipe u want to mount ur bov or recircualtin bov into.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by daves12secV6; 07-14-2006 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 07-09-2006, 05:12 PM   #6
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and this is what the finished pipe looks like.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

ok next up to do is the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler.doing it this way also helps to locate the turbo in the car.
in the pic below u can see how the pipe comes from the intercooler and makes a right bend
Click the image to open in full size.
and in this pic it makes a 90* bend upwards
Click the image to open in full size.
now what u need to do is trim the pipe to the right hieght so when u put the turbo on the end it dosent interfer with the fan or the belt/pulleys on the engine
heres 2 more showing the turbo placement
once u get it in place u want to bolt the inlet flange into the turbo
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
once the turbo is were u want it then comes doing ex inlet pipe
the easiest way to do this is to run a ppe up from the stock y pipe
on the drivers side with a 2.25 hole saw u cut a hole into the y pipe.
ps dont mind the oil all over the pipes i had removed the oil filter and oil filter adapter housing to weld in my oil return fitting into the pan and oil got all over the pipes
Click the image to open in full size.
u can see the location of were the pipe/hole goes in the pic above/ill have to get better pics
now the pipe u weld onto that should be notched in a tubing nother so u get a good fit
as u can see here the pipe runs foward under the front crossmeber at the sides.pretty much inbetween the cm/and the lower control arm
Click the image to open in full size.
this pipe runs all the way upto the inlet on the turbo and gets welded to the flange that u bolted to the turbo
since i dont have better pics of the pipe routing right now heres some of the inlet pipe being welded on the bench
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 07-09-2006, 05:51 PM   #7
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now before u weld the pipe to the y piep and its in the car permantly u need to bolt it back to the turbo so u can figure out were to weld the flange for ur wastegate on.
if ur using an internal wastegate u can skip this step
mine fit perfectly right bleow the inlet flange and faces the crank pully


once u get that finished u can go ahead and bolt the pipe back to the turbo,and weld the other end onto the y pipe
ok now u have the inlet pipe done.now u have to cut the ypipe from were the rest of the ex system meets it and cap it.so all the ex gasses goto the turbo. in the picture below u can see were i cut mine and caped it.now this isnt optimal but it does work.a better way to do it would be to cut the pipe comming from the manifold short and weld a new bend in its place so when it comes down to the y pipe it makes a nice bend into it instead fo just liek dead ending into it.i would have done this myself but i was running out of tubing.and it was late sunday night so i couldnt even go get more.though i will be making a new pipe soon.when that is on the car i will edit this and post the pics.

well now u have the inlet pipe completely finished
now its time to start the downpipe.( the piep that goes back to the cat/muffler)
here u can see the flange that goes onto the turbo this is a block off flange to block off the hole for the internal wastegate.the pipe comes striaght out of the flange about 3 inches then makes a 90* turn downward

and here it is bolted to the turbo


it drops down and makes another 90* bend under the crossmember on the passengers side
which u can sorta see here (img was to large to put into the thread so click the thumbnail)

here are a few pics of it running back to the rest of the ex system.keep in mind i threw out my stock cat.if u keep urs it will look slightly diff.rout the pipe under the cm and out twards the stock ex location

and here it is gpoing out to the stock intermediate pipe.(ran out of tubing at this point so u can see were i had to weld in bits of the old stock pipe)


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Old 07-10-2006, 06:58 AM   #8
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and one more
Click the image to open in full size.
the pipe looks like its hanging a lil low because there arent any hangers on it yet.but once i got the hangers on it i lost a total of maybe 1/4 inch ground clearance

ok ive been typing for a while now so ima give it a break ill write up some more tom and when im done ill go back and fix all the typos and ****.not to mention try to insert some better pics
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:54 PM   #9
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here is how i got the oil for the turbo
Click the image to open in full size.
unscrew the oil ps unit and install 1/8th inch pipe niple screw a tee onto the nipple.then screw in a 1/8th pipe to 3 an fitting.this is were u hook the an line to.on the last port u screw the oil ps sender into
Click the image to open in full size.
the line then runs up over the driver side valve cover along the manifold and out under the serp belt to the turbo.u will need to screw an 1/8th inch pipe to -3 an line adapter into the turbo to hook up the line
----------

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
heres some pics of the oil return line. i used -10 an line it comes down about 4 inches and makes a 90* bend twards the engine on the drivers side.it ends up under the oilfilter,were u need to weld in a fitting into the oil pan.
this line needs to be on a downward angle since the oil drain uses gravity.but with that said u want the fitting in the oil pan as high as possible in the pan so when the crank is spinning at high rpms it dosent blow oil back up the return line.ill get some better pics of the whole oil feed/return setup tommorow

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Old 10-27-2006, 12:07 AM   #10
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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
this is the best location for the o2 sensor,and will require u to extend the factory o2 sensor wire to reach.Also since u are using a 3 wire o2 sensor(heated 02) u will need to also run a power and ground wire.the power wire needs to be hot with the key in the on/run possition.the heated 02 is need due to the fact the turbo is so far away from the cyl heads that the ex gas has cooled off suffitantly @idle/part throttle that the non heated 02 sensor will not stay within operating temps.

when welding in the bung(s) u want them before the first major bend in the pipe,and also do not mount them past the 3 or 9 oclock positions as condensation can collect in the bottom part of the pipes and will greatly reduce the life of the sensor.(fyi i have 2 bungs in mine so i can just screw in my wideband 02 when needed) easier then removing the narrow band and hooking up my wideband and wiring in the analog output to the narrow band sensor wire)

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Old 11-10-2006, 12:26 AM   #11
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Hey... I have just a few questions about this... first of all, what is the overall cost of this build up? A turbo is one of the routes i have considered in getting some actual power out of my 2.8. I have also considered just giving in and swapping out for a 305 or 350. I've even considered a 403 pontiac motor. My problem is that i don't want to just get in line behind everyone else. I want to be different. if you could email me that would be great. i'd love to get into some dialogue with you. My email Glide_guy69@yahoo.com
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage_2K_85 View Post
Hey... I have just a few questions about this... first of all, what is the overall cost of this build up? A turbo is one of the routes i have considered in getting some actual power out of my 2.8. I have also considered just giving in and swapping out for a 305 or 350. I've even considered a 403 pontiac motor. My problem is that i don't want to just get in line behind everyone else. I want to be different. if you could email me that would be great. i'd love to get into some dialogue with you. My email Glide_guy69@yahoo.com
i coverd parts cost in the first or second post of this thread,now if u had to buy the parts and pay somone to build/install everything for u expect a bill for around 3,200+,if u can do all the work urself u can cut that all the way down to 7-900$'s depending on how well u shop around for prices on parts
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Old 11-13-2006, 03:20 AM   #13
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It seems to me that the 2 big reasons to do it is if youíre going after maximum MPG or handling and still want enough power for the thing to get out of itís own way. Otherwise a V8 swap would probably be more effective (this coming from someone that likes weird/different combinations)
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA View Post
It seems to me that the 2 big reasons to do it is if youíre going after maximum MPG or handling and still want enough power for the thing to get out of itís own way. Otherwise a V8 swap would probably be more effective (this coming from someone that likes weird/different combinations)
Why would you bash him for postin a very informative and accurate post?
Weather or not it's on a v6, people can learn a lot from this.
Not to mention, he's getting over 400 horses to the rear wheels!
Some people say that a turbo v6 can only get what a v8 base line is, but how many hard earned dollars will it take to swap to a v8 AND get 400rwhp?
Perhaps the same or MORE than $900?
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Old 11-13-2006, 09:08 PM   #15
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To daves12secV6

Hello,

I am a boy from Belgium and live in the Netherlands. I don't speak very well English but I try.
Have you also done adaptations to the engine himself at placing your turbo?
And how many Horsepower you have won with placing this turbo? And how many seconds was you car faster with the acceleration 0-60?

Greetz Koen

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Old 11-13-2006, 10:17 PM   #16
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To daves12secV6

Hello,

I am a boy from Belgium and live in the Netherlands. I don't speak very well English but I try.
Have you also done adaptations to the engine himself at placing your turbo?
And how many Horsepower you have won with placing this turbo? And how many seconds was you car faster with the acceleration 0-60?

Greetz Koen
ive gained 200+ hp with the turbo,as far as differences in 0-60 times ive never really checked the 2 against each other but i can dig up some of my old time slips from the race track and compare them and post the gains

i really dont understand ur question about placing the turbo
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
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i really dont understand ur question about placing the turbo
Sorry, I try again.
Have you rebuild (change parts in the engine) your engine at installing the turbo?
I mean, can I also build this turbo whit a original 3.1 engine?

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Old 11-13-2006, 10:51 PM   #18
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Sorry, I try again.
Have you rebuild (change parts in the engine) your engine at installing the turbo?
I mean, can I also build this turbo whit a original 3.1 engine?
yes this can be installed on a bone stock engine,AS LONG AS IT IS IN GOOD TO GREAT CONDITION.if the engine is in poor condition it wont last long at all with the turbo
right now im running 10 pounds of boost on a bone stock 3.1 with over 100,000 miles on it
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Old 11-13-2006, 11:01 PM   #19
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My engine is in great condition. This engine has 50,000 miles running.

What think you of this turbo kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4...6520QQtcZphoto

Is this turbo the same like you have installed on your engine?

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Old 11-13-2006, 11:30 PM   #20
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take this to pm's, i didnt want this thread to get filled with other posts,it was only unlocked so i could add more information,or start a new thread if u like
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Old 11-14-2006, 04:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstfirebird View Post
Why would you bash him for postin a very informative and accurate post?
I didn’t realize I was bashing him, what am I bashing him about?

Quote:
Weather or not it's on a v6, people can learn a lot from this.
Not to mention, he's getting over 400 horses to the rear wheels!
Some people say that a turbo v6 can only get what a v8 base line is, but how many hard earned dollars will it take to swap to a v8 AND get 400rwhp?
Perhaps the same or MORE than $900?
You’re not going to do it for $900 unless you’ve got parts sitting around already and can do everything yourself, and they you’ve already spent much more then that, just not starting this project. I’d bet that there’s less a then a dozen people on this board that could do it for those kinds of numbers, and then the rest will find that by the time they have EVERYTHING, paid someone to do the bits of fabrication that they can’t, get it tuned and running well enough to be making 400hp you’ll be looking at $2-4K easy.

Hell, I have “everything” that I need to get done (including a few extra turbos, a tial wasegate or 2…) and can easily do the fabrication and I’d be surprised if I did do something like that that the odds and ends used to tie things together/make it really right wouldn’t run me more then $900.

Hell, I can slap together _something_ for literally a couple of hundred $, but it wouldn’t be pretty and it wouldn’t make 400hp… I’d bet that even after spending thousands, most would end up digging up a new engine/rebuild before they found 400hp.

V8… choose the right core and it’s pretty easy. $150 for a truck engine, you choose how much your time/skill porting heads is worth. If you can do a good job go later model with higher compression, clean up/port, deck the heads (usually$40 each or so), something like a performer air gap/eps intake ($250 new, $100-150 used or pro products knockoff) match that to the right cam for the chassis and other considerations (anything from a $64 summit cam kit to a comp custom grind roller for $275, again, depending on what you started with), swap meet carb, decent headers and your there. Starting with an earlier engine you’re likely to need less work to the heads (they flow more) to make them flow enough but you may end up having to swap pistons (cheap rebuild kit/backyard ball hone rebuild) to get enough compression. If you get really lucky and score a vortec motor at the jy then just a carbed intake, headers and cam and you’re there.

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Old 11-14-2006, 07:19 AM   #22
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Old 11-14-2006, 07:29 AM   #23
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For the skeptics, here's my shopping list so far...
Turbo w/ oil line $200, BOV $100, FMU $85, cam $75, injectors $100, Huge intercooler $200, wastegate $100, mendrel bent pipe/silicone connectors etc $50
These are the parts I'm using, all are NEW.

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take this to pm's, i didnt want this thread to get filled with other posts,it was only unlocked so i could add more information,or start a new thread if u like
Sorry Dave, won't post anymore
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Old 11-14-2006, 04:47 PM   #24
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crossfire is right in order to do this for under 1k u would have to be able to do everything urself.parts will run about 900$'s but if u cant do the welding/fab work and the install urself paying somone to do it is gonna cost alot of money.

the next cheapest option u have is to buy a kit from me for 2,800 and bolt it on,then u would only have to pay to have an ex shop weld the downpipe to the factory ex system,and have a pipe fitting welded into the oil pan for the oil return line

if u buy all the parts and give them to somonei.e a shop to build/fab everything and install it,ur talking about 3+k ontop of the almost 1 k u spent on parts.

belive me when i tell u the 2,800 i charge for a full kit is cheap( i dont make much money at all on it when u ad dhow how much time i have in it ),compared to what a shop would charge u to do it all,not to mention i supply the correct injectors and whatnot that u need to make it run right @ 5-9 psi
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:50 AM   #25
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Dave can the stock tranny take a 5 to 9 psi boost and what about a twin turbo set up?
Do you know what the limits are on the tranny and the 2.8 with hp and boost levels?
I dont wanna do the turbo set up and end up blowing my tranny and/or my engine.
Also Do you think its possible to do this with the stock air box if the stupid fins on the inside are chopped out, instead of running new cone down?
----------
Dave can the stock tranny take a 5 to 9 psi boost and what about a twin turbo set up? Do you know what the limits are on the tranny and the 2.8 with hp and boost levels? Also do you think its possible to do this with the stock air box if the stupid fins on the inside are chopped out, instead of running new cone down?

I dont want to blow my tanny or engine because either cant take the hp or the torque.

Last edited by turbochargedrs; 11-16-2006 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 12-25-2006, 02:03 PM   #26
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yeah the stock trans will take it,but i would advise installing a good quality shiftkit like a trango kit .
i wouldnt reuse the stock airbox it just complicates the plumbing needed to hhok it up to the turbo.that and the airbox man interfere with the intercooler mounting.
as far as twin turbos,they are not easy to do,though im currently past the design stages of my twin turbo setup and have started to fabricate the twin turbo headers.though my kit is mostly designed as an all out race kit.
as far as blowing up the motor if u keep the thing from detonation it will b fine.it all comes down to the tune.

id be more worried about the trans and rear then anything,since me and a few other members here have proven the reliability of these 60* engines
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Old 12-27-2006, 08:45 PM   #27
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how much boost can a great condition engine handle? w/ or w/o forged internals? Can u plz tell me how ur turbo get oil? i really dont get it. i do get how the oil is returned back to the engine
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:04 PM   #28
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here is the oil inlet on the turbo
Click the image to open in full size.
the oil line iu see runs down to here
Click the image to open in full size.
this is on the driver side of the motor,were the stock oil presure sensor is i installed a pipe nipple and screwed a pipe t fitting onto that,one sode of the 2 the oil presure sendunit gets screwed into,and the other outlet on it gets the oil feed line for the turbo.

max boost i recomend on a stock good condition engine is 12psi
with forged pistons and a properly preped engine who knows but ive been over 18 psi,and know somone on another board who just ran 24 psi for almost a week and didnt hurt anything
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Old 12-30-2006, 07:31 AM   #29
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watch how many psi you blow because the intake manifold isnt made to handle crazy psi and will explode. I know someone who was racing his friend and his friend's intake manifold broke because he had to much psi going in.(he was running turboed w/ NOS) but still a twin setup can get the same power as a blown sprayed setup.
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Old 01-01-2007, 02:22 PM   #30
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wat about tranny and rear end, they weren't designed to take that much power. Would u have to do a tranny swap ex. T-56 maybe if it fits? I have plans of putting a turbo on my camaro next year and i need as much info as possible so i dont screw up the first time.
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Old 01-01-2007, 02:51 PM   #31
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watch how many psi you blow because the intake manifold isnt made to handle crazy psi and will explode. I know someone who was racing his friend and his friend's intake manifold broke because he had to much psi going in.(he was running turboed w/ NOS) but still a twin setup can get the same power as a blown sprayed setup.

the stock intake is fine ive run over 18psi with mine,ur friend more then likely blew his up cause he had a nitrous backfire,u wil not break a stock manifold with just a turbo u need some sort of large backfire and then maybe it might break,nitrous is a good way to do that lol.

so far ive had 0 problems with my rear,the trans on the other hand im on number 3,the first one was a stock 140,000 mile trans,the second one was a 80,000 mile junkyard trans,the one n the car now is just a quality rebuilt with a shiftkit,and i havent had any problems with it.i highly recomend a good quality shift kit and a trans cooler if ur gonan do a turbo,
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:50 PM   #32
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well how many coolers can you actually fit in the car and should you run with the ram air hood or at least a cowl because theoretically you'd want an engine oil cooler too if your running your engine turboed. So you SHOULD have your radiator and your intercooler plus the tranny cooler and possibly an engine oil cooler too but will all of the fit?

Just curious but deffinately recheck your list of stuff to buy because if something does go wrong with your turbo it will be like everything else something small and seemingly needless that'll cause your problem

good luck
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:55 PM   #33
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well how many coolers can you actually fit in the car and should you run with the ram air hood or at least a cowl because theoretically you'd want an engine oil cooler too if your running your engine turboed. So you SHOULD have your radiator and your intercooler plus the tranny cooler and possibly an engine oil cooler too but will all of the fit?

Just curious but deffinately recheck your list of stuff to buy because if something does go wrong with your turbo it will be like everything else something small and seemingly needless that'll cause your problem

good luck
Do you realize Dave has put over 10,000 miles on his single turbo engine?
He has encountered most of the problems we will see as our turbo installs go, and Dave is great at answering questions.
.
Dave, did you still want us to NOT post here (this is still a sticky)?
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:00 PM   #34
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ECU

What ECU modifications, reprogramming, or even replacement will be needed for the turbo conversion if any?
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:11 PM   #35
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Do you realize Dave has put over 10,000 miles on his single turbo engine?
He has encountered most of the problems we will see as our turbo installs go, and Dave is great at answering questions.
.
Dave, did you still want us to NOT post here (this is still a sticky)?
as long as it pertians to the topic,as long as the post has usefull information in it or a valid ? that hasent been answered yet its fine.trying to keep the thread from getting to clutered

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What ECU modifications, reprogramming, or even replacement will be needed for the turbo conversion if any?
i see u have the 91 rs which runs on a speed density system,i havent done one on a sd system yet my car is a mass airflow system which is easier to make work with a turbo setup until 7-8 psi.
without computer mods on ur 91 a fmu is a must depending on what size injectors u use will determine what ratio fmu to buy.ur only options for injectors are 19lb and 24lb injectors anything more then 24lb and the car wont idle to well.
if u wanted to reprogram the stock ecm,u could buy all the hardware,chips and adapters for about 150$'s i belive.the advantage the sd cars have is there is alot of things u can do with that ecm (730) u can even run the syclone/typone code on it (the factory turbocharged trucks).
another option is megasquirt ( www.megasquirt.info ) which is a standalone engine mangement system,or u can hook it up as a piggy back system,u can buy this for around 200$'s or more depending on the options u get.u can get it even cheaper if u put it together urself. megasquirt is nice because u dont yhave to burn chips,just hook up ur laptop make the changes and ur done.mega squirt can also be used for boost control,nitrous control,2 step,revlimiter,launch control etc.
it all comes down to how u want to do it really all 3 work and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages

btw welcome to the site

edit ---------------------------------
the megasquirt main site seems to be down
but here is a link to a mirror of the main site
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:44 PM   #36
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One last question before I start on the project.
Do you know of any comanies where I can get a 4340 Steel Crank for the 3.1L V6.
The Injectors i'm trying to get are: 42 pound SVT/Greentop injectors matched +/- 1% from one to another.

I'm going for serious power ... basically enough to run low 11's high 10's
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:59 PM   #37
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One last question before I start on the project.
Do you know of any comanies where I can get a 4340 Steel Crank for the 3.1L V6.
The Injectors i'm trying to get are: 42 pound SVT/Greentop injectors matched +/- 1% from one to another.

I'm going for serious power ... basically enough to run low 11's high 10's
crankshaft can be found here http://crower.com/ this link page #19 http://crower.com/misc/m_cat.shtml
i deff recomend u go with a megasquirt system if ur gonna try to get that much power out of it.though if u poke around in the efi ssection of th ebvoard here they can help u decide if megasquirt or tunning the stock ecm would work out better for u
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Old 01-27-2007, 08:06 PM   #38
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Nice write up. Just curious how you ran all your exhaust though?

Do you have a picture of all the exhaust pieces and where they're routed?

Awesome job. wittle bitty v6 can run with the big boys.. for next to nothing.
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Old 01-27-2007, 08:41 PM   #39
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Nice write up. Just curious how you ran all your exhaust though?

Do you have a picture of all the exhaust pieces and where they're routed?

Awesome job. wittle bitty v6 can run with the big boys.. for next to nothing.
post number 7 has a bunch of ex system shots,the ex system from under the passenger side of the firewall back is all in the stock location.
ill see if i dont have some better shot sof the full exsystem though
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:24 PM   #40
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the link you gave was for a camshaft not a crankshaft, tho i will need a cam.
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:06 PM   #41
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the link you gave was for a camshaft not a crankshaft, tho i will need a cam.
opps my bad, anyways the crankshaft is also listed in that cataloge.
crower makes a bunch of nice stuff for the 60* engines
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Old 02-10-2007, 11:58 PM   #42
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ok, i understand all of the routing but i don't understand the ecm tuning part, i have a 90 rs with a 3.1, what i want to know is how do u tune the ecm for the turbo and what do you do with the intake air temp sensor?, is there anything i can do that doesn't require ecm tuning or modifying the computer in any way?
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:20 AM   #43
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Use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRAFPR) or a fuel management unit (FMU).
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Old 02-13-2007, 10:45 PM   #44
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also, what about the MAP sensor? will it cause any problems when adding the turbo?
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:03 AM   #45
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Hey Dave will the turbo work on any V6? I have a 1992 Bird v6 3.1, is installing the turbo an option I have?
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:11 PM   #46
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so now that i have reread this whole thread multiple times i think i understand everything except the fmu selection, what kind of injectors would i need and what fmu would go best with it? i have a 90 rs with a MAP sensor, what should i do with that, wouldn't a turbo mess with the readings?

hey dave check your PM

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Old 02-22-2007, 04:46 PM   #47
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not to bash anyone, but where the hell are you guys getting your V8 engines? I can get a running 350 for like 200-300 bucks, and throw some easy mods on it and make a good amount of power. I like the turbo V6s too dont get me wrong. Id like to try one eventually, I have a 4 cylinder with a turbo, its a ford, but it makes as much power as my camaro with the 305.
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Old 02-22-2007, 05:13 PM   #48
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I have a 4 cylinder with a turbo, its a ford, but it makes as much power as my camaro with the 305.
That just about says it all .
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Old 02-22-2007, 05:54 PM   #49
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That just about says it all .
LOL.
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Old 02-26-2007, 01:05 PM   #50
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Think Function not practicality

We all know that we can in some way shape or form find a 350 for cheap and push out a extreme amount of horepower. But were not talking about 350 were talking about 6s here. I have a 700HP 350 ready to go, i still want to run a 6. Faster response, able to produce a ungodly amount of torque for their size, and overall with work can be quicker. I just read an article about a new alminum block 4 cylinder that is trying to be entered into NHRA that produces 6x as much hp as the 8s alchol engine. and a 6 cylinder that can pound a FORD ... How fun.

Anyways a stock 327 blows the pants off a 350 anyday

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