Well for one I just ordered the Melling MTC-5 cam, was wondering if it came with new lifters or if I have to buy some, if I have to get some what are some good recommendations? Second, Im quite possibly getting an aluminum driveshaft if I can get one cheap enough, I heard this will let my engine spin more freely so does that mean it will accelerate faster? probably not by much but theoretically I guess?? Im big on the weight reduction thing so it could benifit more. No. 3 -- Im thinking about using Nitrous, never used it before. I got a bottle and some lines. All I need is a nozzle, jet, solenoid and trigger now right? Only wanna go with like a 50 shot. What size jet would that be?? Power change if the pressure is higher?? Kinda makes sence. Do these engines react well to the Go-Juice?? Thats it for now, might be buying a welder and some sheetmetal tomorrow so I can make my plenum cause all the shops I went to suck and always messed up or took wayy too long. Updates on my engine will come soon. I beat an 87 305 TBI Firebird the other day so its doing good so far. Thanks

it should come w/ lifters. youre going to want to replace the valve springs too when you put that cam in.

yeah, thats basically the idea for an aluminum driveshaft, less rotational mass.

couldnt tell ya, never played w/ nitrous.

Thanks for the info man. Any know about nitrous with the 60*'s??

My MTC5 did NOT come with lifters.

The stock v6 2.5" driveshaft weights 12lbs (or mine does), the lightest aluminum shaft is from an LS1 that is 11lbs. I doubt you will notice a difference.

Never used juice.

Dale, which lifters did you buy to go along with the cam? Does it matter that much or do I need specific ones matched to the cam?? Well that 1lb is better than nothing and it smooths out some vibrations as well from what Ive heard. Any suggestions as what to do with the money for the driveshaft?? Headers, cam, port work, and cai already done. along with a fresh engine so no 3.4 swap. What other cat-backs are there?? Dynomax isnt doing anything for me.

I went with melling lifters as well, figured they would be nicely matched. I had a few collapse on me. I have some other brand in there now, sealed power????

I dont think there are any other v6 specific catbacks, may look for a v8 one and see if it says what dia pipe it comes with. Or use your dynomax mid pipe, and just put a new muffler and tips on it.

Im thinking about ordering these EDL-9737 @ Summit.. Performer plus lifters for hydraulic flat tappet cams.. Good idea or keep looking??

I see nothing wrong with them.

is there any reason why someone couldn't use a set of lifters from a 350 if they had the same diameter?

Im just asking cause I wondered if a set of rhoads lifters might work on the 60degrees, if they actually work like they are advertised, might help if you run a more radical cam that runs up near 7k rpms

IMO, you would have to worry about height as well. To make sure the oil valve is in the right spot and to not put the rockers at an incorrect angle.

I can't believe no one has answered the nitrous questions... You guys are missing out on possibly the easiest ear to ear perma-grin you can get from a 6cyl Fbody.

To do it right, I'd recommend a wet setup. Dry would be tasking your existing injectors to deliver the gas. By running a wet setup, you dump the gas in with the nozzle at the same time as the gas. Tapping into the fuel system is cake. Remove the core from the schrader valve test port on the fuel rail and screw a 4an line onto it. The other end of that line goes to your fuel solenoid. I got fancy and used a 90* fitting, but technically it's not necessary.

If you've got a bottle, brackets, and the 4an feed line (12ft will get you to the backseat, 16 will reach to the trunk) then you'll need a fuel solenoid, a nitrous solenoid, a nitrous filter, a few adapters to run the lines into and out of the solenoids since they're pipe thread and the lines are AN, a few short lengths of -3an line to run from the solenoids to the nozzle and the nozzle. You'll also need a few jets ($7 ea), a relay, some wire, a switch to arm the system, and a push button to activate it.

The politically correct would suggest a hobs switch so the system won't operate without fuel pressure, and a microswitch on the Throttlebody, but that's all not necessary.

Jetting is going to depend on wet or dry. You can call the tech line for whichever company's parts you end up using, or you can download the instructions for the closest matching system and follow the charts.

A 50hp shot isn't even worth the trouble, you won't hardly feel a difference. A 75hp shot is fun, but again, not worth the $4/lb. Now when you jet for 125hp, that's when the fun begins. With a 125 shot on my 200,000 mile, 3.1 I was able to completely embarass a 92 Mustang GT... To the tune of about 6 car lengths in a matter of seconds, with two of my friends in the car. I started small and worked my way up, and honestly it was just a waste of money until I jetted for 100hp.

Before you spend a bunch of money on parts (I had about $600 in mine when it was finished but I ended up with a bunch of extra pieces) check your bottle. It'll have a stamping at the top with a date code. If it's more then three years old it will have to be recertified. Usually after recertifying a bottle and buying the rest of the system it's cheaper to just buy a kit.

Any questions, PM me.

Bottle in the backseat

arming switch under dash

Momentary contact push button trigger

engine compartment

Solenoids - custom bracket

Fogger nozzle


Edit: I forgot to mention if you want to be NHRA legal, you're supposed to run a blow off tube outside the car. And Nitrous does have a few drawbacks. First it's highly addictive. Second, word has a habit of getting out. Only a few close friends new about my setup and the following two summers anytime someone would pull up next to me, they'd decline to run em saying "that things got NOS!" The same thing happened in my Formula which didn't have nitrous after the first tests.

we were all being honest and saying we havent messed with it. Someone who hasnt installed it cant give a good honest answer correct?

True, but you guys have GOT to try nitrous. LOL It's a kick. I pulled my setup when I sold the car. In a few weeks it'll be injecting laughing gas into a turbocharged intercooled 2.3L Ford in a 2800lb Mustang coupe... <insert maniacal laugh here>

Well nitrous sounds pretty damn fun... I can already win against alot of cars, just recently a new 4.0 V6 Mustang on the highway. As for the streets my latest run was with a Subaru 2.5 RS that I beat from a stoplight... Cant wait till I get this cam, hopefully headers and my buddies fageol.. Im not looking for a track car, all street here.. Whats the slowest speed youve used the juice at?? A 125 shot sounds pretty big considering the car only makes a little bit more than that at the crank...

Well in my case I was running a well used 3.1L. The 3.1 used the same bottom end as a 3.4 DOHC which is rated at considerably higher output (215hp?). Based on that a 100hp shot is perfectly safe by NOS's fudge factor estimation. Further I have first hand knowledge of a 85 2.8L Fiero consuming well over 12 bottles of nitrous, jetted at 125hp.

I started at 50hp, boring... then 75hp, less boring, but still boring... 100hp was starting to show promise... 125hp is where it really came to life. At 125 it was more fun then my L98's. I would have done 150, but the weather got cold and I had other priorities. I never ran it on a track, just around town for fun. A bottle goes pretty fast... A couple of rides for friends and one or two stoplight exhibitions...

I had the system setup to spray anytime the button was pushed down, for as long as it was held down, and I'd typically floor the car and immeadiately press the button. With 3.23 gears, no posi, and a well used 700R4 it would spin the tires for a split second and take off like a bat out of hell. My Formula ran 14.3@98 stock, the 3.1 on nitrous was definitely quicker.

I got 76,xxx on my engine.. It should be able to handle that 125 shot then right??

In theory. As with anything, your mileage may vary. It worked for my 3.1L and it was probably the most neglected 3.1 on the planet before I got it.

u can always run one size up on the fuel jet to make it run a tad rich for an extra measure of saftey,just make sure ur fuel pump can support the fuel demand of what ever level of shot u decide to use.

I just used a cheapo stock replacement pump in my 3.1, GP sorenson if I remember correctly. There are a ton of nitrous systems setup with a T in the fuel line off the mechanical pump. The stock EFI pump should be overkill if anything.

I see you have moved Drew?

My 3.1 car hasn't been driven in some time and needs a bath and an oxy sensor bad!

Yep, got a chance to move out of Sioux Falls and I took it. Just in time... the last week I was there I got to drive in snow. It hasn't snowed in Salina yet.