That TB looks pretty awesome. What did it come off of? I think I can see my reflection in it...!

The TB is a 65mm billet throttle body from WOT-Tech over at 60DegreeV6. Its for 3100/3400. The only reason I got it was because its shinny

Nice, you bought the TCE

I would like to see how you are going to route the throttle cables when installed.

Im not really sure how Im going to do that yet...and I wont be able to get it figured out till I put the engine /tranny back in. But with all the EGR stuff gone on the UIM it should free up some room to fish at least 1 cable, if not both, through the intake. But we'll see.

Flip the TB right side up, use FWD linkage, bracket and a long throttle cable. IIRC the S-series gen2 4.3 cable will be long enough.

The '95 GM truck throttle cable is long enough to pull the TB from the front and is a direct fit, but what about the shift cable?

^^^ Thats exactly why I went this way. Plus, I figure "its worth a try"...so Im going to try to get the stock cables to work. I already got the linkage on, now I have to make the bracket that connects to the UIM adapt to the 3x00 UIM. Ive taken it this far...might as well see it out and see if I can do it.

It could be done the same as the FWD guys are doing and use a Quad 4 "Throttle box", and the appropriate cables.

Or as I did, added to the OEM 3x00 throttle linkage and bracket to connect to the TV cable. I don't have any pictures of that since my camera was stolen with those pictures on it. That car will be back here in a month or so for a tranny swap to a manual, so I can take pictures then.

Is the FWD TV cable that much longer? One would think the trans is closer to the TB vs a RWD.

I'm not so concerned on my car as I have access to equipment, but it would be nice to find a direct swap

I haven't used it myself, but from what I've seen the box could be used in just about any car to do this. The Throttle box is usually mounted on the left strut tower or close to, then the three cables all connect to it, Throttle cable (from pedal), TV cable and throttle cable (from TB).

I found a shop that builds race engines that can hot tank my engine and replace my cam bearings for $60. If I want them to replace my freeze plugs it will be a few more dollars. But, I think thats a good price and its right on my way to school

I do have a question about the freeze plugs. I know I have 1 on each side and 3 in the back of the engine, and these are 34.3mm, correct? On the website that Im looking at has 2 sizes though...7/8" and 34.3mm. Are there plugs that I am forgetting?
On this same site they show these...Has anyone used these?

DORMAN Part # 02602 {AutoGrade - Expand-Tite!}
1-3/8" - 1-1/2" (34mm - 38mm) Quick Seal® Rubber
---------------------------------------------------
In this pic, where the starter bolts up, is that a freeze plug?

So, while I am waiting to get my engine back from its surgery at the machine shop, I figured Id try to tie up some loose ends. Im looking at AFPRs. What pressure range whould be good for me? I bought a FMU (thanks FF), but after I get it properly tuned I dont know if I will need it anymore. I plan on running 6 PSI until I get it dyno tuned (hopefully right after I get it running), and then turning it up to 10-12 PSI tuned.
I know that I am forgeting to buy stuff I need, but I think that I have "most" of the bases covered. I still need to get fuel/oil lines and adapters, an ICM, a few sensors, and my tranny rebuilt.

The list is getting shorter <-----only with one wheel though

curious what ECM are you using?

As of right now I am going to use the stock ECM and get it tuned....but that could change. I have to see if the dyno place can tune my ECM.

Why would you crank up the boost after you got it tuned to 6psi? You'll need to retune it for 12psi too. You need to do an ecm swap, the stock one just won't cut it. Either a '165 or '747 would be a good choice, especially the '747 because that's what the turbo buicks used, and both are well hacked. You also need to learn to tune for yourself if you want acceptable driveability anywhere other than wot. You'll save money in the long run with a wb O2.

I am going to have it at 6PSI with just a FMU and I want to get it tuned to 10-12PSI. Ive been looking into hacking my ECM and putting the turbo 3.1 code in, but its still kinda confusing to me.

What is the stock ECM? If it's a '7730, it will work well, VERY well actually, and would use that over the '7747. I used a '7747 in a swap for a friend of mine and while it's doing the job, it has it's limitations, and also doesn't have the outputs for WG solenoid control, or cooling fan control, among other features. I'm quite sure the turbo Buicks used a different ECM anyhow.
So far the best option looks to be the '7749 (from the Sy/Ty and Turbo Sunbird), running code $59, almost too many options, and can be tuned for any application. I will be using this on a few of my next projects.

Yes he should have the '7730, they came in 90-92's.

With the '7730 what you need to tune? with a little playing around is it possible to get anything out a stock engine just tuning . Sorry to hijack grimmic great stuff!!

Oops, didn't notice he had a '91.
All v6's except '90-'92 owners have crap ecm's.

Yea Ive heard of a coule of things I can do to the computer...probubly going to try the TGP code.

I havent posted any progress in a while, so I thought Id do a little update... When I was taking the engine out I broke 2 of the tranny crossmember bolts, so I tried to use a vise grip today (several tecniques) with absolutly no luck. They only stick out a little bit so I was barely able to grip them and all I was able to do is round the threads and make it shiney. So I need to borrow a drill and drill them out... Machine shop still has my block... I am waiting on my tax check so I can get my tranny worked on... Once I get the bolts out, my block back, and my tranny fixed I am putting the "beast" back in its cage.


.........oh yeah, and my rust hole is still growing. It must know its going to be cut out, so its spreading...........

I got a quick question. I found a rebuilt S10 700R4 for the 2.8. Is the gearing the same between the S10s and the Camaros? I just want to make sure that the tranny will work if I decide to go this route.

I beleive the gearing is the same, but the tail stock I'm quite sure is different.

Just confering with a friend of mine, we both are pretty sure you can swap the tailstock without tearing the tranny apart.

The one I found was for the 2WD model. Im not sure if the 2.8 came with a 4X4 option.

It's not to do with being a 2WD or 4x4, it has to do with the fact that the F-body uses a torque arm and the S-10 doesn't.

Yes, the 2.8 was available in 4x4 trim.

The 4x4 trannies require disassembly to change the output shaft to a 2WD output shaft.

Ok...its from a Camaro. My mistake. I got it mixed up with another item number.

i was under the impression that a maf setup would be more suited for a boosted application than an sd if the computer was stock... do i have wrong information and can you digress a little? i have a 88 maf system and a 91 sd system at my disposal for my 3.4/3500/turbo swap and if you (or anyone else) have recommendations, i would love to hear them.

thanks,
dodger

Personally I prefer SD, since there is no need for an expensive MAF sensor.

SD systems to d avery fine job of running an engine efficiantly and properly.

The only reason IMO to use a MAF system is if the ultimate goal is milage, the MAF system can have better control of fueling based directly to actual air flow, not just assumed.

I wasn't implying that maf ecm's are worse suited for boost than map, just that the pre-'90 v6 ecm's are crap. The whole maf vs. map debate is a wash when it comes to turbocharging in my oppinion, as long as the maf is ahead of the turbo. Map systems can sense the boost level in the manifold, making it more accurate during transient conditions (wastegate opening, throttle closing, ect.) but maf systems directly measure the flow entering the engine. Both have their drawbacks and advantages.

to end the stupid debate just have both , great project grimmic. when you plan to have it running

Getting the engine back this week. Getting the tranny in 2-3 weeks(need a little more $$$). So, hopefully, in a month to a month and a half. This project has gotten bigger than the original plan...that and being in college, has kinda slowed things down a bit. But its getting close

Well they place that is doing my block ordered the wrong pistons. They ordered me a set of Hypereutectic pistons...and that just wont fly. So now I need to find a set of forged pistons before he can bore it out. He says he dosent want to bore it without having the pistons
So does anyone know where I can get forged 3100 pistons with a .030 overbore? Im so upset that there is another snag Im not in the mood to look them up. (My German side is showing)

:EDIT: Well after cooling off, someone on another board gave me a few companies to talk to. So Im going through the motions and getting prices. The plan of a budget build is officially out...seeing how the pistons are going to be a pretty penny.

You don't need forged, just err on the side of rich. Stock pistons are more detonations resistant than hypers.

I looked for stock pistons, but all I could find was either stock size (no overbore) or hypereutectic pistons. All the forged pistons Ive found have to be custom made ($$$).

Look what I found on my porch when I got home from work....




One step closer. Good up to 1000HP

nice somone on another board just got a set for the 3500 with 4.3 pin sizes,btw please dont use those rubber freezeout plugs,those are emergency/temp fix plugs,

Yeah, Im not going to. I had never seen them before and didnt know if they were a good thing to use. Im just getting regular plugs put back in.

Mmm, forgings.

Ever had one of those days where you have all the tools to do a task, nothing goes the way you had planned, and youre so disgusted that you feel like scraping your project? Kinda had an afternoon like that.

The 2 damn tranny crossmember bolts that I broke just dont feel like cooperating. I got a 90* drill and cobalt extractor drill bits bits...and it didnt do much besides make noise.

Tried the size I needed...started to drill, than just spun and shined up the bottom of the bolt. Next size down...same thing. I than said why not the the next one down...made a nice deep hole

Tried the bigger ones again...nothing
Im going to get a new set of bits and have another try at it. I have to start tieing up these loose ends...the end is near.

There's been a rash of swedish cars in the shop lately. Believe me, I know how you feel.

Its starting to look like my car again





They got a little damaged in transit....to the same corner on both...

^^^The only damage is to the corner. There is a little bit of the foam still stuck to the fender.

Just little scratches and the corner is bent a tiny bit. It will have to be worked over a bit anyways, so Im not to concerned. Although I will let the company know.
Also you can see in the pics that they are not a 100% perfect fit. They need to be bent and fitted a bit by the doors.

Aftermarket body panels usually need some tweaking. Nice to see some more progress! Guess you are about ready for the remainder of your parts, I'll get on the shipping soon as everything is now finished

ive seen way worse then again i live in buffalo rust city

Yea I had figured that they would need some tweaking...Ill have to see if my buddy will be able to bend them and make them line up. Im sure he can, seeing how him and his dad do it for a living.

Im about at wits end with these freaking bolts. Ive used all different types of drill bits/extractors and still nothing. Im about ready to have it towed and have someone else deal with this. I dont have the time or resources to keep buying drill bits to have them not work
Who would have thought 2 bolts could be so stubborn?

First of all kudos on all the work you have done. But I am curios why not pick up a donor car and just swap all your stuff over to it? Wouldn't it be cheaper that way? I don't know the cost of rust repair. I guess I am one of the lucky ones that got a garage kept Camaro.

Trey

just get a heli-coil kit. probably like a 10mm thread size.

Because a rust-free thirdgen in Pennsylvania would be difficult to find and expensive?

Thats what I was wondering. I found one out here for 1500 T Tops, 5 speed, primered ready to paint and has a running V-6. Just was curious. Buy it out here throw it on a truck and ship it there. Thats what I am about to do with a 4X4.

Trey

Im getting a buddy and his dad to fix the rust and do a full paint job for $2500. All the Camaros Ive seen around here are far more rusted than mine. So I figured this is a better way to go...and I want to keep the car I bought.

The problem is not getting a bolt threaded...its getting the old snapped bolts out.
Here is a bad pic, but you can see the snapped bolts and you can see my unsuccessful drilling attempts...