ok so heres the deal i got a 91 camaro rs with the 3.1 from a friend after it had been sitting for about 6-8 years. Pulled it home checked the fuel pump and it was shot so changed the pump, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and the ignition coil. Recently i have changed the head gasket after checking the compression. now i have reset the timing and still wont start and run. OH yeah i have also got a new computer, and i have checked the ignition control module and it is still good so... if you can think of anything else i am not thinking of please let me know

I call this website shot gun car fixin'..cause its hard to diagnose vehicles without actually viewing them.A lot of people throw their ideas at you,and you get a lot of suggestions.So I guess I will load the first round and say injectors?...have you checked those yet?.if you have fuel pressure/ignition spark and still no start.I would say take a look at those.

no i have not checked all of them i only checked a couple and only by pulling the plugs to see if they were wet and then i was just checking to see what condition the plugs were in and i could smell the gas on them also could you tell me the correct firing order i have three different ones

Heh, pretty much. Let me be the first to suggest you check for error codes.

i checked the codes and its code 12 over and over nothing else and of course i had to check the codes after i put in the new computer so now i just dont know anything else to try

Correct me if I am wrong but firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6..and to check injectors did you ohm them?.If i recall they should be around 12 ohms.Anything lower is time to replace them.I replaced my multec(stock)injectors with v6 Ford injectors and they fit good a little smaller then the multecs,but they fit and you have to use the GM o-rings.Felt much better off the line performance..no lag like many v6 owners complain about.

What's the part # on those injectors? I might give them a try. Firing order is 123456. notatoy- you said you could smell fuel on the sp plugs, which means it's running rich... check out your map sensor.

I dont recall the part no.,I searched for a ford ranger/bronco 2 with the 3.0L and found some on EBAY and the guy reconditioned them, had some sort of flow bench and sonic cleaner.I want to say the years where between 85-92.I would have to do some searching if you wanted the part no.?

Sorry I said 3.0L it not ...its the 2.9L engine and the part no. F1ZE Ford design 2 ...15lb.They are the gray colored injector.

well i got out my trusty GM 1992 Camaro Service Manual and started to research. EGR ? it says a stuck open EGR can cause low air/fuel ratio during crank. that book says injectors should be 12.2 +/- .4ohms at 20*C (68*F). there should be no more than .8ohm difference between injectors. if the TPS is sticking or binding in the wide open throttle (WOT) position, the ECM will be in the clear flood mode.

have you checked and seen if you your plugs are firing

i have checked to see if the sp plugs were firing by pulling one out and setting it on the plenum it had a decent arc on it

Edit- Nevermind!

Cool, thanks.

so can the egr valve cause the car to not start at all if it is stuck in (wot) or not

What are you getting, and not getting? What is it "doing"?

Spark? What color? Blue or orange is not good, it needs to be white.
Compression now after head gasket? (valves to tight, or not open enough)
91 has Anti theft, sure its not acting up?
All fuses good?
Fuel pump kicking on when you turn the key?
How is fuel pressure after pump replacement?

Make sure you got the dizzy in right. Also, you could have someone try spinning the dizzy when cranking to get it to fire.

Firing order, IMO if it was wrong, it would backfire.

i am getting fuel fire and compression the spark is blue. it is turning over but just not starting up the anti theft should be fine because the light is not staying on the fuel pump is kicking on because i can hear it the only thing i dont know is if the valves are to tight or not

If your getting compression, then your valves should be close or fine enough to make it fire.

I say dizzy is in wrong or wires not wired right.

ok so how do ichange the dizzy's position

If it's in the original position you should'nt need to mess with it. If it isn't you loosen the bolt at the base of the distributor.

He did a head gasket job which required the dizzy to come out. I am thinking he didnt get it back in the propper position. Ive done several and still have problems getting them in the right place.

actually i did not have to pull anything but the intake, alternator, egr, brackets, and valve cover to pull the head

You have to pull dizzy to pull base intake.

If you have compression fire and gas the motor got too run unless you have the dizzy in wrong wired wrong or the valves are to tight from the headgasket job.

Hu?

on my car i did not have to pull the dizzy out to remove the base intake it is a split intake
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what sensors can keep the car from starting besides the icm

:edit: sorry, your right. v6 does not go thru the base plate. It just has to clear that one bolt.

So you didnt remove the dizzy, or touch it at all?

fire order is simple 123456, with passanger front being #1

what is the position of the number one on the dist i have always been told it was on the driver side and it is supposed to be the middle on drivers side

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If your looking down at the dizzy, it should be around the 5'o-clock'ish position I think(key phrase). Its been almost a year now since I had a v6. I DO know #1 is passanger front for v6. V8's it is drivers front.

Go get a haynes or chiltons manual. It will show you all this. 15bux and is generally worth it.