Excellegions

Huy guys ! ! ! Got to www.cardomain.com and looks for excellegions, find the 1991 rs camaro and I have pics on the turbo header that BBS Designs created for me ! ! My Turbo v6 is nearly completed ! ! Thanks Bermudez, more questions to come ! ! !

KBcobra

interesting piping you got there

Excellegions

Thanks ! ! ! I was getting alittle mad that I would need such custom angles and bends to the point that I would have to buy three universal kits to get every bend I needed. @ $100 each, I explored other options. The piping isn't perfect, but it worked !

KBcobra

use caution with the t-5 and tuning. T-5 are easy to break and firstfirebird can tell you how easy it is to detonate our v6 without tuning. just some . Though i'll give you this its a start. heres the link http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2212876

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Dude, why not just link/post them here for everyone to see.....?

Coming out very nice, keep up the great work....

-Rob

Excellegions

Holy smokes ! ! How did you do the pics onto the post like that!? Thats mad awesome dude !

project89

iTrader: (1)

ur downpipe u should really get rid of that 90 and get an elbow ur it will make a huge difference

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I see your also running a manual, that is just awesome! Was going to do something similar last year, but things didn't work out as planned. What are you running for fuel/spark control....?

bmxerboi221

Looks Great man!!!! So what are some details????? which turbo did you go with? And over all about how much would you say you put into turboing it, and do you like the results? Ive got a little saved up and about to start buying parts for my turbo build on my 2.8 firebird

Excellegions

The 90 degree turn was a hard decision, but I tried a mandren bend turn, not enough clearance. I was running out of time and patience. Didn't want to explore different overflow tanks. As for the details, the turbo is a standard $300 t40E from ebay, I have a OBX 10:1 FMU, Venom 24-lb. fuel injectors, e3 spark plugs, and I have the MSD 6BTM ignition control box, but havn't installed it yet. After I get ignition done, the centerforce clutch is next. I do tell you this, I drove it around with the internal wastegate set to open at 3 psi using a manual boost controller, WHAT A DIFFERNCE! ! I actually felt alittle g force. Im so proud of my lil 3.1 ! !

project89

iTrader: (1)

take a mandrel bend and pie cut it,u can do the same thing with a stright piece but using a 180* mandrel the bend will end up tighter then the striaght pipe

2 things about ur setup for managing fuel the 10-1 fmu is a tad on the big side but thats not the issue ur stock fuel pump isnt gonna put out more then 60 psi max, 3 psi of boost puts u there already.deff look into getting a intank hipresure walboro pump
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also just looked how is ur pcv plumbed ?and ur belt looks alil long almost like the tensioner is bottomed out any reason u have such a long belt on the car?

Excellegions

I plan on getting the MSD High Pressure Electric Fuel Pump, only after I install the pump and the msd will I venture past 3 psi, to tell you the truth, Im having problems exceeding past 3 psi, that's the most it's does. however we just put it together today, more troubleshooting to come.

Excellegions

I must of gone throuth seven differnt auto shops trying to find a shorter belt. That's the shortest I can find locally. You have good eyes, the tentioner is nearly bottomed out, but I do have some grap on the belt, enough to charge strongly and power steering is fully functional, no problems with the water pump, though at high rpm, you can see alittle play in the belt. No belts made for this car without the smog pump. pcv?

dodger65

maybe try a belt from about an 88 2.8. no smog pump and the accessories look similarly laid out. not sure about rib count, though

project89

iTrader: (1)

2.8 belt should be perfect, just have them lookup a belt from 86-89.
cant get past 3 psi? im willing to bet u got a massive boost leak,or that right angle bend ur using on the downpipe is making so much back presure that the turbine outlet that it wont spool up.

try pressure testing some of that flex piping im curious to see if it will actually not leak under preasure

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

what kind of boost pipe is that, it looks like fart fan hose, but im like 99.99% sure its not fart fan hose, wouldnt think it would hold to the boost

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Look at your local autoparts store for an equivalent of the Drive-Rite 915K6 for your drive belt. I have never had a smog pump, and threw out the useless bracket from my 3.1 when I got it, and that's the belt I use. Now, if only I could get someone to share how their P/S pump is mounted on those engines without A/C, I could delete my idler pulley AKA my A/C compressor...

project89

iTrader: (1)

u dont need an idler just remove the ac and run a shorter belt like i did

only thing i have is crank,alt water pump and ps all in stock locations

project89

iTrader: (1)

that an fittin u have in the valve cover is not going to work, the oil return must be lower then the turbo,the return works on gravity not presure if u keep trying to run it that way u will blow out the seals in the turbo

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Not too fond about FMU's. You have a '730 ECM like me, so consider running it coupled with the $59 code. Work out some of the kinks in conjunction with the 3.1 and you should be good to go. Definitely agree w/Dave, you'll need a better fuel pump to keep up with fuel demand....

Excellegions

Hey Thanks ! I will go and try and find it, if not the I'll try the older 2.8 belt.

Fart fan hose? what is that? So, ya guys think that my entire hosing system is the problem huh? That would make sence, since the hosing was made for exhaust, I would think it wouldnt leak, but I guess there's not that much pressure in an exhaust system, I'll start the revision on changing it completly over to true intercooling piping.

Dude, I feel ya! However, I live in Miami Fl, removing the ac is next to suicide!

So you noticed that, good eyes. When I was putting all this together, I didn't know that the oil was gravity driven, with the k member in the way, I coun't get to the oil pan to tap a drain in, so I figured I would just drain into the valve cover. You're right, I may have already blown a seal becuase little oil is now comming through into the turbine housing causing serious smoke out the tailpipe. i have already come to terms that I have to remove the turbo to repair the seals. Can anyone tell me if there's an easy way to get a drain into the pan without having to have to lift the engine to remove the pan~?

I went with the FMU and the MSD 6BTM ignition box because I know very little to nothing about ECM codes. Is the FMU really not recommended? Who can I ship my ECM to to have the code written?

Excellegions

Could someone explain right quick how to post images onto the tread like Street Lethal did with my car domain pics?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Many people run FMU's, I'm just not too crazy over them myself. Click Here to learn more about Code $59....

No problem. Right click on your picture, click on properties, highlight the address, then cut and paste the address like so....;

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...76_54_full.jpg

Then using an HTML code, type in [img] before, and [/img] after the address, like so....;

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

FMU, 7730 ECM, and 24# injectors is how I blew my motor - TWICE. Make sure you have a WB to keep things checked, better to flood than lean , don't hit your rev limiter either - it pulls fuel for throttle cut (why mine blew the second time).

The 24# injectors is going to require you to turn down the FP to about 5psi, then it will go back up to 55psi FP with 5psi boost, your stock pump will manage.

The turbo is probably fine if you get it to drain correctly if you only started it a few times. Same thing happens if an oil restrictor is needed but absent.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

How will you be controlling fuel/spark with the new engine your building now....?

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

I have a MegaSquirt, but I'm going to mess with the '7730 first. If I like it, I will go $59, otherwise MS will be used.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, the 90 degree turn might hurt ya little, as you want everything to flow freely, with no kinks. Can always upgrade later on to something similar in design, the positioning for the turbo, up and away, will allow for a more linear downpipe routing (when installed)....;

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Read somewhere that the '730 ECM's wiring doesn't need to be rerouted to that of the '749 (junk?), and that all is needed is to drop in the $59 code. Heard a lot of testimony thus far, but I guess both of us won't truly know until all is said and done on our car's....

Still get a kick out of that freaking name, sounds like something out of a Dirk Diggler flick....

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

This is true, the only pin changes that are needed are to run an automatic tranny or adding functions (WBO2 fuel control, auxilary PWN output, etc.).

What makes you say the '7749 is junk?
The '7749 and '7730 are very similar internally, other than the '7749 has two injector drivers, and a few other installed functions, that I can't recall right now.

FF, just go to $59 (89 ) now, skip trying to use anything else, $59 has been so cut up and then put back together it's so much more defined and has so many added features to make tuning easier and quicker. There's even an auto tune function (not sure exactly how that works yet, but it's there).

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

No no, I meant it was junkers (junk, for short) who mentioned that the '730 didn't need to be repinned lol. The '749 ECM in itself is definitely not junk....

firstfirebird

iTrader: (3)

Do you mean junkcltr He's quite bright as far as tuning.

Six, I was actually going to ask that question at the forum (using it for N/A). I like the idea of autotune to get a start, another feature MS has that I liked.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I actually did mean junkcltr, but I keep getting him confused with my buddy who uses junkers88 on another board lol....

project89

iTrader: (1)

u may not have to rebuild the turbo,just move the drain line first it may stop leaking.do not drill a hole in the oil pan,get urself a pipe bung and weld it to the side of the pan then drive a punch threw the bung to put a hole in the pan,screw a pipe to an adapter into the bung and ur good to go

the ditching the ac compressor post was meant for the other person that asked about removing it

Excellegions

Yup, Im trying to budget a WB o2 sensor, Cobalt Autometers is like $400. Thanks on the info about the turbo, I'll drain it properly and see if it still leaks.

I will surely go back and change this, I know that's seriously hurting the flow. Im going to fine tune everything else first. Im sure with that 90 bend I should still see close to 6 - 8 psi.

I believe I have an idea what you're talking about, but not really, ok, maybe I dont have an idea, a pipe bung?? Get alittle more detailed for me, and I'll get right on it. thanks !!

project89

iTrader: (1)

plx or aem or inovate lc1 wideband all can be had from 225-300$'s, i got a plx wideband cost me 250 for the wideband/controller and the gauge.

run to ur local home depot and goto the plumbing section get urself a 1/2 inch pipe thread bung, and weld that to the oil pan as high as possible,it needs to be above the oil level,then u need a 10an to 1/2 pipe adapter to screw into that so u can connect ur an hose to it

hers a pipe bung though u dont need stainless http://stores.channeladvisor.com/ver...%20Pipe%20Bung

ur driver side valve cover i see an an line hokked to were ur pcv valve is suposed to be what do u have run there?if u eliminated that pcv valve ur are beging to blow out seals and blow smoke out the ex as well

project89

iTrader: (1)

Excellegions

Ok, I understand about the bund and Im going to do it, as for the pvc, I originally attempted a twin turbo project, so I designed both valve covers to be drain ports, now that Im only a single turbo, I hooked up the line to the drivers side volve cover for looks, and have it just hanging under the car to relieve crank case pressure. Originally it was hooked up to a hose that went into the intake manifold; to releve crank pressure, I believe that is what that port originally did, right? I hope . . .

project89

iTrader: (1)

is that fitting wleded into the valve cover? if so u need a new valve cover and u need to plumb it back into the manifold base.do not do this without the pcv valve if u do when the motor goes into boost u will just blow air into the valve cover.the pcv is a mettered valve it lets in mettered air from the crankcase into the intake

Excellegions

Ah gee wizz . . . Ok, I'll put it all back, I just love taking apart the whole upper end. *'sigh~~. How did you say I need to put the hole in the oil pan again? "don't" drill it before I weld the bung in you say?

project89

iTrader: (1)

no just stick the bung to the side of the pan and weld it then punch a hole in the pan with a punch and hammer.if u drill it u will get mnetal chavings inthe oil that will most likley make there way into the oil pump.be carefull welding the bung to the pan.use a mig welder and weld 1/8th inch at a time or u risk burning threw and getting holes in the weld. if the pan is rusty at all its gonna be dam thin once u knock it off to get to clean metal


just make sure the spot u shose leaves u enough room to get the mig gun all the way around the bung to weld it,and that u will have room to drive a punch threw the pan with a hammer when u are done best location i found was driver side up under the oil filter

Excellegions

Any idea why Im not getting any psi out of my turbo? is it possible the oil build up is slowing it down? I know it's not a leak becaust I bypassed the intercooler and did turbo straight to maniflod and it had the same problem. When I atke the piping off, put my hand on it and rev the engine, withere was so much forced air I couldnt keep my hand on it, but into the engine, barely no psi. I got lucky with nearly 3 psi, more like 1.5 psi, it spiked to 3.

project89

iTrader: (1)

looks liek ur running an internal gate, is it adjusted right,whats the psi rating of the wastegate.liek i said before that 90* angle u got could be causing so much back preasure that the turbo just wont spin up under load.

Excellegions

Ok, once I fix the oil and minor other things I'll change that 90 degree turn out. The wastegate is set at 8 psi and I never messed with it yet. BTW, wasnt the pcv hose hooked up into the manifolds intake? Under boost wont i loose boost pressure straight into the valce cover? Or is there something I dont understand there . . . .

project89

iTrader: (1)

the pcv valve closes when presure is applied from the intake side,its a one way check valve sorta.
yes fix everything else first and see what ahppenes

im assuming ur turbo is the same one me and firstfirebird had originally used
t04e .63/.50 is that the one?

Excellegions

Yup, that is exactly what my turbo is.

project89

iTrader: (1)

k that turbo is good for 23 psi on the 2.8 anythign over that and u just over speed the turbo and heat up the air, so thats deff not ur issue

Excellegions

now that is what I figured, dont you believe that if on a 2.8 that turbo can do over 20 psi than I should still see more than 8 psi even though I have that 90* turn? What you think?

project89

iTrader: (1)

if ur wastegate is leaking or u have that much backpreasure in the system i wouldnt expect it to spool up at all.fix ur oil problems and the pcv problem first and go from there. u need to fix one thing at a time to find out whats wrong

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Moates has this: LC-1 WBO2 w/O-meter

Pretty decent deal.

Or you could get just the LC-1, and use any other AF gauge, even one designed for a NBO2 sensor and use one of the analog outputs set-up to display a more accurate AFR, based on WBO2 readings.

I may go with the second option, or do both, I have a couple Autometer AF gauges, and an Innovate analog WB AF gauge.

I'd be willing to sell one of my AF gauges, along with possibly a vacuum/boost gauge.

project89

iTrader: (1)

this is the exact setup i got though it was cheaper directly from plx
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...roducts_id=163

works great no issues but either way is good lc-1 or plx u cant go wrong,just stay away from aem uego they have bene known to be off as much as1.0 afr