V6Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.
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There is a rattling and slight grinding noise comming from the motor at around 2200 rpm and only at the rpm. Oil pressure is good and the motor still runs strong at 145,000 miles. Car is a 89 Camaro with a 2.8. If I need a new one I would like to get a new one but not one that runs $350 from Summit or the parts store.
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00 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Daytona
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man if that dont sound exactly liek my car when i broke the flexplate
__________________ PRO FAB ENGINEERING - comming soon turbokits, supercharger kits, directport nitrous, cyl head porting, custom intakes, suspension parts ++ much more FORMER 60* V6 FBODY RECORD HOLDER 13.008@104.65@9 psi
Good way to check flexplate is to remove the dust guard, start the vehicle and look underneath at the flexplate as it's rotating. Have someone moved the throttle to see change in rpm. My old one had a terrible shudder caused by a warped flexplate.
Good way to check flexplate is to remove the dust guard, start the vehicle and look underneath at the flexplate as it's rotating. Have someone moved the throttle to see change in rpm. My old one had a terrible shudder caused by a warped flexplate.
I'll have to check that this weekend. I hope that its not the flexplate. Quick question, if it is the flexplate will one from a 3.4 work. I know that it will fit but I know that there are some differences in balancing.
Also would like to add that there are no noises on fireup, engine come right to life.
I believe firstfirebird told me in a PM that after '86 or so the engines were internally balanced, so, in theory, any flexplate for the RWD 60* after '86 should fit fine?
Internal balance started in 1987. In '87, the front-wheel-drive's received a distributorless-ignition-system (DIS), which gave them an extra counterweight in the center of the crankshaft. (I guess it's not really a counterweight but I forget the correct word.) So GM just used that crankshaft in all their 2.8's, and they internally balanced the motor by notching out that counterweight. So in '87, all the flywheels became neutral balanced.
But harmonic balancers were always neutral-balanced.
If you can get a good enough look at the balancer (may have to pull the crankshaft pulley) you can diagnose it. The balancer has a steel core, then a rubber ring, then an outer steel ring. When the balancer goes bad, the rubber ring splits, and starts to edge out between the steel core and outer steel ring. So if anything's sticking out, time for a new balancer. And if it's time for a new balancer, you should change the front seal in the timing chain cover (you don't have to pull the cover to change the seal).
__________________ -Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
its called to much powah actually i dont know but its the second one ive broke, though since i switched to my tci converter i havent had anymore issues,im thinking high rpms and an improperly balanced tc was the culprit
btw i drove the car home 60 miles the lil tab is all that caught when i unbolted the tc and pulled the trans the outer part of the flexplate hit the floor
I can get a good look the harmonic balancer when I change the springs this weekend, since the car will be on jackstands. I won't change the front seal yet, I am putting a cam and heads onto the motor at the end of the summer between the semesters. I do have a harmonic balancer from a 3.4 that looks like it is in good shape, I am assuming that this will work?
If I Recall Correctly the 3.4 one is no different than the 2.8/3.1 balancer; check the flange though (where it slides into the seal). If it's got a groove in it from the previous engine, you'll need to install a harmonic balancer repair sleeve over the flange. That will give the front seal a flat area to seal against- otherwise you can get a leak.
When you do the cam you might want to look into getting the Cloyes true dual roller timing chain set (from Summit Racing, about $100).
__________________ -Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
I'm about at wits end with this. I though that it is the PS pump since there was a bolt about to fall out, nope. With the AC and PS pump pulled off of the motor it still rattles like hell. It's not the torque converter as it is tight, not sure about the flywheel but I don't think that its that. Its deffinately from the passenger side of the motor. Motor mount maybe? I'm running out of ideas and want this solved soon. Gettin real pissed with it. Anyone else have ideas?
My 92 3.1 is at 14x,xxx miles and has the same damn noise. It does it slightly at idle but peaks at around 2k or so. I looked at the vid and it has to be the same prob. My mechanic looked at it and said it was the idler pulley.
I hope you find out what the problem is so I know what to do lol.
I think unlikely but I'll look into it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92RS3.1
My 92 3.1 is at 14x,xxx miles and has the same damn noise. It does it slightly at idle but peaks at around 2k or so. I looked at the vid and it has to be the same prob. My mechanic looked at it and said it was the idler pulley.
I hope you find out what the problem is so I know what to do lol.
It's only a couple of years old. The previous owner replaced it before I bought the car.
Last edited by 2.8RS; 06-13-2008 at 08:52 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
maybe something scraping beneath the intake manifold? pushrod? lifter? like its just scrapping until it gets enough oil to stay lubricated? is that new timing chain installed yet? these things are known to destroy timing chains. it could be the timing chain damper, or whats left of it, rubbing. just a guess though.
Last edited by chevyracingrox; 06-13-2008 at 05:51 PM.
Reason: rephrasing information
I used the screwdriver method of listening for listening for the problem. There is nothing from the oil pan, front cover (as far as I could tell), oil pan, or tranny bellhousing/shield. It does seem to be more prominent on the driver side. Haven't looked at the exhaust yet either. With the screwdriver on the PS pump and motor mount I can hear it there. But the thing is is that I had the PS pump pulled completely off of the car and the rattling is still there so I have to dig deeper into that side of the car. AC was off of the car too when I pulled the PS pump.
Not the cat. No rattling with a hammer or hearing it with a screwdriver. The car dives fine, performance is still there, nothing is affecting the driveability of the car, doesn't feel choked. The rattling is there whether in gear or park (auto) and is only just above idle everytime, never while accelerating or cruising.
actually i dont know but its the second one ive broke, though since i switched to my tci converter i havent had anymore issues,im thinking high rpms and an improperly balanced tc was the culprit
All I really need is gaskets. 
