This is on a 1991 Camaro RS 3.1 V6. I was told it was near where the throttle cable goes to the intake. Can anyone please show me where in the two attached pics that idle screw is? Or was I misinformed altogether?

Not a Carburetor topic.

Moving to V6 forum.

Sorry for my mistake. In pic # 2 there is a piece of metal that the green piece holding the cable is attached to...just to the right of that metal thing is a threaded thing on it but doesn't budge when I try to turn it. As you can see the metal arm thing stops on this. To me it needs to stop further away but how? In the pic I spoke of ...the big metal area that the threaded piece is in...is open on the back of it but no head on it for using a tool to turn it. I suck at explaining but I hope someone can help me. When the car is in park or drive while stopped it is almost dying or IS dying, which to my uneducated mind says idling too low. (I know I seem childish called parts "things" or "thingies"...sigh)

not that your wrong in doing it the manual way...but i would try and do the idle relearn procedure also...and then if you cant, have someone(not a shop inless its free) check to make sure your computer is not searching for an idle

There isn't any idle screw on the 3.1l f-body. The idle speed is controlled by the ECM. If it is idling low then there is something else wrong. This could be that the IAC is bad, the throttle blades are gummed up, or even maybe the spark timing is set wrong. May also be that the EGR is leaking.

Starting with a full tune up is a good start. Plugs, cap, rotor, plug wires, clean the TB & IAC, and so on. If your car has an auto then an idle learn is recommended to finish off the work.

For the tune up search for the "TomP" tuneup.

RBob.

What is an idle learn? TB is throttle body? IAC is Idle Air Control? Do you have diagrams of where these parts are? Sorry for the inconvenience.

do a search...there is a thread about it...its how i learned it

There IS an idle screw, but messing with it could screw (no pun intended) up more things than your trying to fix to start with.

Attached is a picture with MSPaint "blueprints"
Poorly done... took 30 seconds...

That is the minimum air adjustment screw, not an idle screw. artistic_cowboy, don't mess with the screw that V6F1R3BRD pictured.

TB is throttle body, IAC is idle air control.

Here is a good thread that describes cleaning the TB and the idle learn:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6...dle-learn.html (Correct Idle Learn??)

IAC location, check your first picture. The IAC is at the top of the TB protruding toward the passenger side. It is the cylinder shaped piece held by 2 screws.


I also noticed that the TV cable looks to be out of adjustment. Does the tranny shift OK? There is a lot of slack in the cable. This is hard on the trans as the line pressure will be low.

For a procedure on adjusting it check the tranny board here for posts by "transfixleo." He posted the procedure many times so it should be easy to find it (use his name in the author box of the search engine).

RBob.

openeing up the cap where that screw is located is not a good idea..you will increase the idle -maybe..but this is not the problem ..there is something else wrong ,,,iac --get it verified.

No problem shifting RBob, but I tried to do the Idle Learn process and I couldn't because it wouldnt stay started when I got to the step of putting it into drive. I never touched the throttle or steering wheel. I used the foot brake to change the gears but it quickly died. The rpm's stay around 1000 and slightly under. Occasionally it will jump the needle a little above but then just under. Since I can't do the Idle Learn now...what do I do?

I would clean the TB and IAC. If not sure about R&R'ing the IAC at least clean the TB. It will make a big difference. I would also check the timing. Will need a light but they can be had for about $40. Or borrow one. Remember to open the BYPASS connector and check/set the timing with the engine warmed up.

How is cap, rotor, plugs and wires? Just use standard plugs such as the Autolite 24's.

For the idle learn, if the engine stalls, just put the stick into neutral and restart. Once the RPM settles put it back into drive. If it continually stalls, along with the issues you are having, it may be that the IAC is bad. Or so gummed up that it can't move.

The IAC is a small motor that extends and retracts a rod with a pintle on the end. The pintle covers an opening in the TB that passes air directly into the plenum. This is how the ECM controls the idle speed. If the IAC is bad or gummed up, then it can't change the volume of air to control the engine speed.

RBob.

I'll start by replacing the IAC. I took it off and it looked way used lol. Plugs, wires, cap, etc have been replaced. When you say clean the throttle body, um...what specifically are you saying? How? What all makes up the throttle body? Thanks for your patience bud.

TB cleaner is at Pep Girls/NAPA/Autozone/O'reilies for about $4. Follow the directions on the can and you can't screw it up.

Ok, I'm not trying to start an argument. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong.

But that's what i have always been told what an idle screw was. It sets where the throttle is positioned at "idle". so that just made sense to me.

My fault artistic_cowboy. Sorry to waste your time. I'm just trying to "pay it forward" lol

I didn't see it as a waste of time. Heck, to me it made sense...only problem was I couldn't get the stupid thing to move. There isn't a cap on the back side of it but I couldn't see in there good enough to know if it had a phillip's head or flat head on it.

I'm 99% sure its a screw with a Torx head on it, thats why you weren't getting anywhere with a screwdriver.

And yeah, technically that is called idle set screw or something along those lines, but even as you mess with that, the computer is still going to try and control the idle with the IAC. I'm sure you can take it a bit too far to the point where the IAC won't be able to bring it down any further..

but if you try to close the screw all the way - so by that means you would think it would choke out - the IAC will open up and still let air in.

So that screw might help you a tiny bit, but overall the ECM is going to try and take control of the idle.

Well i know the 2.8 has a cap on the back... I figured the 3.1 was close to the same.

Any way I would take Rbob's word for it.. As a moderator i hope he knows what he is talking about.

I think they all come with a cap but it isn't that hard to remove... It's just a thin piece of metal. I popped mine out really easily when I was having some horrible idle problems.

In the end, messing with that screw didn't help at all though.