Well I just got a 1989 Pontiac Firebird V6 last week. My Grandfather gave her to me, and well she needs some work.. Thank God she's a Florida car so the body is solid and there is no rust. I do know that I need a new fuel pump, and a few other things like paint/interior, tires, brakes, etc... So here is a few questions: -Should I buy an aftermarket fuel pump or buy a factory GM pump? -If I should buy a aftermarket pump, wich one should I buy?? -Also my car is a V6 and I was told it hade the "GT look package", is that true? Or did some one just make a "clone" of a Trans Am? -Does anyone know were I can run my VIN to get a options list or history of my car? If I have anymore questions I'll post 'em up. And thanks everyone for your help in advance. It's greatly appreciated -Derick

Nice! i wish my V6 bird had the ground effects package

To answer your questions:

Q - Should I buy an aftermarket fuel pump or buy a factory GM pump?
A- the factory fuel pump should be sufficient unless your going turbo

Q - If I should buy a aftermarket pump, wich one should I buy??
A - check out www.racetronix.com if you really need a larger pump than stock

Q - Also my car is a V6 and I was told it hade the "GT look package", is that true? Or did some one just make a "clone" of a Trans Am?
A - starting in 89', there was an option to add the ground effects package to the base firebird. its probably not a clone

Q - Does anyone know were I can run my VIN to get a options list or history of my car?
A - to be honest, i dont know. even the decoder offered on this site only gives you info on what each individual option code means... it doesnt actually break down VIN numbers to list what that particular car came with

Good luck with your car!

The RPO decoder on the main page of this site will tell you what each individual RPO code means and you can find the sticker containing this list on the inside of your center console...unless it's been removed/replaced.

Wow ok thats great!!! Thanks for all your help! The only thing is I thought the stock GM fuel pumps were bad. Like I thought they alwase mess up.... If I'm rong I'll just buy a factory replacement. I plan on keeping me car stock, for now.. Thanks again!

-Derick

Ok that sounds great. But what is a RPO code? And you said inside the center console. Meaning its inside the little "glove box" in the center console between the seats, or I have to remove the center console and look on the underside of it?

-Thanks again for everyones help. This is really great!!!

-Derick

its a sticker inside the console glove gob thing as you describe it. Should be stuck to the side of the box area.

Ya I looked in the box thats between the seats and well there's nothing..... Is the code anywere else? (I sure hope it is)..

-Derick

Would anyone know the transmittion I mite possibly have? I know it's an automatic, but well thats it.. lol. sorry if I sound like an idiot, I never really looked at these cars very well.... I'm more into the late 60's muscle cars, but I'm starting to love these 3rd gens just as much. I just need some help from the "experts" lol to get me started and pointed to the rite track. Thanks again to everyone

-Derick

It's got a 700r4. If you know about older musle cars then you know what I'm talking about. Lots of people use these trannies for custom builds if they want an auto.

Thanks!!!! I actually heard about this transmittion but I don't know much about it. Since you say alot of people use it I guess it's a fairly commom trans and I'm guessing there very good! I do know old muscle cars, but I dont know the trans and the diff gears and such, I know more about the different options and styles of them and how to tell one car out from the rest like what year it is exacly and such. I'm still learning alot about the car industry, I've alwase ben interested in vehicles since a young age, but I've never done more work then oil changes and brakes since I live in an apartment. And I'm only 17 (Just turned 17 last month on the 17th), so I still have alot to learn. And thank you for your help I now know a lil bit more about my new baby. Thanks again,

-Derick

The 4L60 and 4L60E are newer versions of the 700R4 that are widely used in pretty much all 90's and early 00's GM RWD vehicles, FYI. Just another point for the trans, but it does have its weak spots.

BTW, there are a couple of other places that the RPO sticker might be hiding, if your car has one. Don't worry if it doesn't have one... I'm sure that at least yours has the Tire Loading and the other sticker (forgot what it is ATM) on the side of the driver's door. Mine has none of the above except for a couple of VIN stickers here and there. That's another thing... If you look, you'll notice that pretty much each body panel will have a sticker with the car's VIN on it, if it hasn't been replaced. That's how I know my pass side quarter panel and front fenders have been replaced (quarter doesn't have one, pass front fender has a VIN sticker from an 88 Formula, and the driver's fender has a GM parts sticker on it).
Anyways, back to the RPO sticker... It may also be on the inside of the door in the rear locking storage compartment on the driver's side, or so I've heard. Even better, if you're REALLY lucky, you might even find a build sheet if you pull up the carpeting. And, as a start, here's a couple codes for you: your engine is the LB8 2.8L MFI V6, your trans is the MD8 700R4 (as stated above), and you have the C60 Air Conditioning option.
You may be able to go to Pontiac Historical Services (www.phs-online.com) and get some information on your car. I heard not too long ago that they were clearing out their information sources, though, so it's kind of a hit-or-miss thing.

WOW! holy info!!! Thats insane thank you so much!! For the RPO sticker I looked arrounfd the car and I found this:

inside the "trunk":


on the passengers door:


I'm guessing these are the RPO code's?

I found this too, I have no idea what it is, but anywase I'll post it up for the fun of it. lol (drivers door):



Thanks again for all your help!! I will also check out that history report web site also. Thanks again!

-Derick

No those 2 top pictures are your VIN number lol. As for the last one it looks like someone just carved a PN in there.

DAMN! lol I though I found the RPO... Well i guess I'll never know the history.. Whatever I guess. Well thanks for letting me know lol. And yes someone did carve those numbers in, I thought it was funny and desided to post it up lol. Thanks again

-Derick

Well I haven't been on here for a long time and well I'm back!! haha!! I've been working on my Firebird with my mom's boyfriend and here;s a small update:

Took the old tank out and the old fuel pump and this is what the pump looked like.......

Here is the color of the old gas in the old tank:

Had to smash the muffler off since it was falling apart inside. And some dummy welded it to the pipe:

New gas tank with new fuel pump installed:

She's clean underneath

New tank in:

Here is a picture slid fallowed by a video clip of her first start up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxiB2Ytt-2s

-Derick

Those first couple of pics you posted with the VIN stickers on them are the stickers that GM uses to match body panels to the frame. There should be one of those on every removable body panel (and some that aren't removable... look behind the spare tire in the pass side and the rear trim panel on the driver's side for a couple more and for proof that these panels haven't been replaced). The sticker I was referring to may be inside the locking stowage compartment in the rear trim panel on the driver's side, attached to the insulation on the inside of the door. Should be like 2.5" by 5" or something like that, and have the VIN with a series of 3-letter codes on it.

Ho-ly f*ck. I have never seen anything like that fuel pump. That is just terrible.

i agree, im the forth owner off my 89 v6 camaro, and mines was no where near that

I could only imagine what the engine internals look like

Thanks Maverick H1L I'll take a look when ever I get the chance. I don't think any of the panels have been changed, except for a panel were the car was hit... And possible the front and rear bumper has been changed.

And yes the fuel pump was bad, but the car has ran twice in the last 5 years or so (about 4 years ago to get her on a trailor and take it off the trailor). So the engine internalls should be alrite. They seem to be fine. And I even drained the gas line with the old gas just so no more of it would be burned. She seems to be running pretty stong too. And I haven't even changed the oil yet. (I let her run for maybe 6 minutes tops). Oil should be changed tomorrow, I'm also going to check the brakes and put the heat shield for the gas tank back in and those cross member or sway bars or whatever they are hahaha.

-Derick

Ok, well I need your help!

I was planing on repainting my car to a blue, BUT today my mind wandered and I was thinking about how GM ended the Pontiac line, and I was thinking "Should I put my car back to the original color?", or "should I paint it blue?". So I figured I would ask a few friends of mine that are car enthusiasts and I figured I would ask my fellow 3rd gen owners on what your thoughts are.

So should I repaint to my stock color? Or should I go with a factory GM blue?

Now keep in mind I LOVE both of these colors, and that's another factor whey I can't choose. But I wont be repainting for a while so I have plenty of time to make my decision, some times I'm leaning to stock some times I'm leaning to blue.... So whats your imput?

here is the blue I sorta have in mind:
http://img44.imageshack.us/i/firebirdq.jpg/

And here is the stock color (of course someone repainted my car red, and I don't like red that much....) :
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...ans-Am-GTA.jpg

-Derick

I gotta say, I LOVE that dark red color they used on these cars. That color red would be my 2nd favorite after the green my car is painted.
I say go with the red. I think it looks better on the Firebirds, plus it'll save you the grief of painting the engine bay and door jambs.

The car is finaly running and on the streets! It's been a while since I've been on here. I've desided to go with the colour Maroon. The original colour. And here is a few videos. The first one is a few months old and the second one is more updated:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hh9KB-0lTT4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9EEc...eature=related

Now I'm wondering if this is an XS Firebird or an SSA Firebird or maybe just a regular V6 with the Sports Aperance package..

-Derick

Car is parked for the winter and I'm getting the "itch" to take her for a spin. Anyway here is a video from a few months ago. Set up a tripod with my point and shoot camera, took some video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lizWDL84FLU

I got a GoPro Motorsport Hero HD, and here is a teaser of some angles I want to get:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnXy0pYwbhs

Man I can't wait to get her painted. I was thinking of posting in the "body" section, but I'll give it a go here first.

For Paint: I plan on striping as much of the car as I possibly can. So, here is the list I have so far:

Remove the wing
Remove all the skirts
Remove the side markers
Remove the mirrors
Remove the tailights (including the center part)
Remove the front lisence plate braket (I'm getting a flip and hide one)
Remove the front windshield (and rubber seal, because I need a new seal)
Remove front signal light assembilys
Remove the top piece of the headlights
Remove the T-tops
Remove all the rubbers arround the doors (and get new ones)

I was also thinking of removing the door handles and key locks, I'm hopping this is an easy job?
I'm also thinking of removing the rubbers arround the T-tops then putting them back on after paint (the rubber is still good)

Another thing would be the "bumper moldings" on the doors. My Dad was saying if I removed them they would probably brake, and I figured I would never get them back to the same spot as they were before (because I'm guessing they are stuck on with a double sided tape).

Whatcha guys think? Is there anything I am missing? should there be something else that I should be removing for paint?

Here is some more resent pictures:







And here is some pictures that are just plain sweet:




-Derick

You don't need to remove the windshield unless it's cracked or otherwise damaged and you need a new one or it's leaking, and it's a PITA to do. Just remove the reveal molding (the plastic trim around it) and mask it off for paint. If you're going to replace any weatherstripping, I'd replace all of it just to be sure, and there could be some nasty crap hiding under the roof strips, just an FYI.

The door handles and locks are easy as pie to get at when the door panels come off. Also replace the window sealing strips on either side of the side windows as they are more than likely shot to pieces by now. The window will need to be down as far as it goes to remove the outer strip, and up all the way to remove the door handle and lock, the handle being held on by 2 speed nuts and the lock by a clip that slides out.

I know I have a chip/crack in the lower part of the driver's side, but I'll have to look much closer when I get a chance. Thanks for the tip though about the plastic trim! I figured it was all one piece. I;m pretty sure it leaked though, because you can see at the perimiter or the windshield it looks like it's somewhat stained. It's hard to explaine. I'll have to get someone to look at it. But if I get the window changed, or removed and reinstalled I'll get someone to do it. There's no way I'll do that in my driveway that's for sure.

I'm glad you say the door handles and key locks are easy though, out of all of it that was the part I wasn't too sure about. I'll definatly be changing the window sealing strips, they are DONE. LOL! Lets just say when I'm driving down the road the driver's side one flaps in the wind bahahaha!

The other parts I'm not to sure about would be the headlight pieces (the part that is painted over the flip down headlights. I may just take the hole assembily out, because I want to make sure the bumper is painted rite since when the headlights are down they cover about 2cm of the bumer. And also the door bumper moldings. Those I just don't know about.

All the other parts I plan on removing should be easy (I think), it'll just take some time. And since my Grandfather wants to pay for the paint job, I just have to wait till he wants to get it done then I'll start ripping her apart.

OH and one more thing! The rear hard window has that little metal trip arround the window, and those 4 little caps on the top of the glass. Now mine are painted red like the car, but the car was painted red after a little accident. Originaly the car was Maroon, and she will once again be Maroon. But my question is: the little caps on the top of the glass and the metal striping should it be painted the color of the car? Or should it be painted black? (I've heard it should be black, but on my car it's red. So I just don't know..). And since it's winter I can't just go to a car show and look at some 3rd gens.

Man I type alot...

-Derick

The metal trim peice and the 4 plastic cover peices on the rear hatch should be black. Also Id remove the headlight assembly to paint. It takes I think 3 nuts to take out and a plug. You may want to consider taking the rear taillight panel off for painting also as it seems you want to do a thorough job. Theres only some speed nuts holding them on. As for the plastic side mouldings, Id just remove it and leave it off. Its not really worth it to put back on or get replaced, plus I think the car looks better IMO without them.

Looks like a really straight car that has alot of potential especially if you paint it right.

And remember how I said I'd never seen a pump like that? I pulled the FP out of my S10 and guess what it looked like..lol

Also looks like you'll want to do some adjustments to the front end as the hood gap at the front bumper is way beyond excessive. There's 4 bolts, 2 visible on top and 2 under the car, that hold the headlight assemblies in place. Mark EVERYTHING around the bolts and mounts before you remove it so you won't have as much fighting to do later to line everything back up. You can also adjust the headlights so that the trim is against the back of the bumper cover lip instead of overhanging it if you try hard enough (requires realignment of pretty much all of the front panels).

Yes, the hatch trim and the bolt covers should be black.

Perfect! I have a feeling I'll be painting that black with a rattle can. Maybe I'll see if the shop can do it while it's there. One more thing; would that be gloss black, or matt black? The tailights and center panel is comming off. And all the parts I remove from the car that aren't going to get painted (dash, lights, etc..) are ALL coming home withe me. That way there I know they can't take her for a spin arround the block. And I'll also be taking a pictures of the milages that is on the counter when I drop her off. I want to make sure it's done rite, after seeing my Dads '04 Dodge Ram get painted 7 times in like 2-3 years, and lisening to him B**** about it for the hole time untill he sold the truck, I'm going to make sure the Bird will get painted rite the first time. I never really though about taking the plastic moldings on the doors off and leaving them off. I think I mite just do that! Thanks man!!! But one question; does anyone know if those plastic door moldings were optional, or standart equipement on an '89? I also google'd some pictures and I find they look pretty good with no door moldings.

She is pretty straight and rust free. Only thing is the rear panel arround the wheel artch and gas tank door there's some bondo. I'm not sure if I'll get the shop to clean up the bondo, or get them to install a hole new panel...

i remember... LOL. That sucks! It's pretty scary to take those out, then once the gas drys off of it it's like HOLY S*** that was in there?

I'd like to realine those lights lips behind the bumper, but messing with the alinement of all the other panels makes it feel like alot of work that isn't garentied. maybe in the spring I'll just mess with it and see what happends. I'll remember to mark it, thanks for the heads up! I know what you mean about the hood, everything is perfectly lined up with the fenders the hole way down the hood, it's lined up with the top of th lights. It's just at the bumper, and my friends all think it's my bumper that's messed up (because it looks bad), but it's flush with the turn signal lights, so my guess the problem is the hood. But how can it be ajusted? Seems to me it's warped... But I never really took a good look. Once the car was legal for the road I just drove it while I could untill it snowed. And here is an old picture (from a few years ago), and I think if the hood is warped, maybe this had something to do with it...?



This is basicly my goal:


Except no Pontiac emblem on the bumper, and no "PONTIAC" in the uper part of the windshield. Also my lisence plate will be on the passenger side, on the same angle as the bumper.


Thanks guys for all the info and help, I really apreciate it! And now I can't wait for summer so I can start working on makin her look good.

-Derick

The plastic door moldings are standard equipment. However some of the base models had just a thin black strip instead of an actual molding. A lot of people I know who repaint their car decide to leave them off. Its just a hassle to put them on, and if not done correctly would look off and like crap. The black trim around the rear hatch glass should be matte black I believe aswell as the 4 plastic covers, it might be gloss, but if it was it wasnt a high gloss.

My 4 hatch bolts were covered in rubber (to protect the glass) until the top part of the rubber on 2 of them fell off. The rubber was, well, obviously, black... As in not painted.

As for the headlights and hood, you can adjust the headlight assemblies within the brackets to be closer to the hood with 2 mounting bolts. Also check to see if maybe the front bumper support (where the secondary safety catch slides into the hole and the bumper cover is bolted to) is slightly bent towards the ground. If not, you can use a couple of washers under the bolts for the cover to try to help line things back up again. However, as you said, the front cover may have gotten pushed in and it may not be repairable without complete replacement. Check to make sure all of the support brackets are straight before you do anything else, though.

Give her a bath, and use Meguiars ColoRX on it, you'll be suprised how much better it will look for a few weeks....