V6Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.
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I just want to know if this is possible.
A buddy of mine has a z28 aluminum radiator
and I probably need to replace mine sometime.
I just wanted to know if there was a difference between them.
I've been searching and never found any answers.
If you look, I believe the hose routing is opposite of ours, so you would, at the very least, need some different hoses. I believe (someone correct me if I am wrong) that the Z radiator has an additional core in it (2-3 cores) for better cooling.
Yeah, I was thinking that for some reason. But I was hoping I was wrong.
I was also thinking that it had an additional core; my little 3.1 likes to stay around
220 so I was hoping this would help out with that. Along with that it being aluminum rather than plastic.
I would double-check to make sure. My rad hose fittings are opposite, but then I have an 87. Maybe things changed around in 1990, IDK. If it looks like it will work, there's no harm in trying. However, you will probably also need to get the upper mount with it, and relocate the lower insulators further towards the outside of the car (they just press into holes drilled into the lower support).
Yeh, mines a 92.
Ill just buy it and see if it works.
He's selling it for 40. So its not like a big waste of money.
As for the upper mount, Justins looks just like the one
that is already on my car, I don't know about the lower ones though.
Hopefully it will work - with adjustments or not.
Thanks Maverick!
I appreciate your help and input, not only just on my matters;
but the help you provide everyone else too.
The reason I said to get the upper mount is because I know the rad for the V6 is narrower in width between the tanks than the V8 one is. If your mount has another 2 clip holes next to the outer bolt holes (there will be a large hole for the clip to slide into and a smaller one for the bolt) that are empty, then you will more than likely need to pick up a V8 mount.
Your car runs at 220 because that's what it's programmed to run at. You need a lower temp thermostat & reprogram the ecm to turn the fans on earlier.
__________________ Increasingly I find the difference between a 'fact' and opinion is the number of people that believe it.
3.4 block converted to roller valvetrain with 220/225 cam on 115 lsa, early '769' heads with 3500 valves, LS6 springs & mild porting, worked over heddman headers, 3500 plenum with ported 3400 lower & 'short star' 65mm throttle. 210hp at 5800ft (that's 270hp at sealevel )
Your car runs at 220 because that's what it's programmed to run at. You need a lower temp thermostat & reprogram the ecm to turn the fans on earlier.
For city driving, that would be true. However, if he is running 220 on the open road, I'd think that some other parts need to be replaced. My 3.1 rarely hits the 220 mark on the gauge, and I have tested the system with thermometers. My ECM rarely turns the fan on as well.
Josiah, our cars are programmed to run above 160*F, where the ECM enters closed loop. Our thermostats are designed for 195*F opening temp stock, but you can get 180* and even 160* (not recommended as this can play havoc with the ECM tables) replacements. The ECM is programmed to run the fan at 235*F. If your car is running that hot, I would also suggest a coolant flush and refill along with a new thermostat, and check to make sure your radiator's air dam isn't broken.
You can do as is suggested above if you don't like the high temps, but these cars were designed that way for a reason (greater economy and fewer harmful emissions).
Again, that's what it's programmed to run at. 220 is when the fan is programmed to turn on. Mine stayed right around 210 in the summer before I ditched the '870 ecm.
I managed to put a stock radiator from a 85 firebird with the 305 into my 89 2.8 so I am sure it can be done but it did take some work with cutting and fitting hoses.
the originals are mostly made of yellow brass(looks almost like copper).The aftermarkets are plastic and aluminun.. You can buy a lifetime warranty aftermarket for bout $110.00 and some people say they cool a little better. I've replaced mine with the plastic version and I have no complaints thus far..
From what I've seen after many years they'll start leaking from either the seam or the resivoirs themselves will split and leak. Not sure why it happens to alum radiators and not brass as often. Doesn't seem to happen to larger radiators as often though.
__________________ Increasingly I find the difference between a 'fact' and opinion is the number of people that believe it.
3.4 block converted to roller valvetrain with 220/225 cam on 115 lsa, early '769' heads with 3500 valves, LS6 springs & mild porting, worked over heddman headers, 3500 plenum with ported 3400 lower & 'short star' 65mm throttle. 210hp at 5800ft (that's 270hp at sealevel )
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