89rs1

Hye guys i am having a heck of a time trying to get this this to start. 89 rs 2.8l 5 speed. Vats is bypassed by grounding green wire on relay behind drivers side kick panel. pulled the injectors, cleaned and checked that all were good, they are. fuel pump if fine. new distributor, ICM and wires, plugs are clean and good to go. the only thing i can think of is, i checked spark on the coil with a spark plug tester, put out a good, nice consistant spark. Then when i put it on the #1 wire, it showed spark on the tester, but it wasnt as strong and bright as the coil..... another thing is i think the previous owner installed the dizzy wrong. can someone tell me how to re-install the dizzy the right way, and also how can i check to see when the #1 cyclinder is at TDC??? i dont know anymore i just need as much input as i can get, im not a master mechanic, but i know enough to do basic work, so let me know guys PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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sienaz 86 2.8

if you can bump it over till you see one of the timing marks then pull the #1 plug and lightly feel around with a screw driver or flashlight. #1 should be at tdc

Maverick H1L

You didn't bypass the VATS system, only the starter enable relay. There still is no fuel enable signal to the ECM, which is why the engine isn't starting... I'm willing to bet you have a code 46, which means that VATS isn't working.

The ONLY way to make sure that #1 is at TDC is to remove the pass side valve cover and make sure the valves are closed. Even if the #1 piston is at TDC, the #4 cylinder could be in firing position (180* opposite the #1 cylinder by the dizzy, one full turn of the crank). If you get the VATS problem taken care of, then you will know if the engine is on time or not because it will either run like crap at TDC or it will backfire and refuse to start (180* out, switch the #1 and #4 plug wires and go from there, 1-6).

89rs1

so whats the proper way to bypass vats, i dont have the key with a chip in it so???

Maverick H1L

Somehow, you're going to need to find out what resistance the module needs to work. There are 15 separate key codes. You can duplicate these, but it takes time to do this and find the right one. If your car doesn't have the original lock cylinder and key (which by your response above it doesn't), this is even harder.

Do you have any experience with a soldering iron and using it on a printed circuit board? I hope so, because you're going to need it.

89rs1

went and got resistors today, gonna check all 15 combos to see if i cant get this thing to start!

yea i know how to solder, and work with electronics.


i read somewhere you can find the resistence for the vats from somewhere on the ecm, is this right?

there has to be another way of checking the resistence without having the factory key right?

Maverick H1L

Since you beat me to it, I hope you got the right resistors, that need to be connected between the white/black and purple/white wires at the module.

You need: 100, 330, 470, 680, 1K, 1.5K, 2.2K, 4.7K, 5.6K, 10K resistors, in various combinations.

89rs1

pmd u back, i got a pack of 100 resistors, but im not sure if it has enough of the lower number resistors to make all 15 combos.

do u have a list or count of how many it will take for all 15 combos?

Maverick H1L

This is how to make the key codes. I STRONGLY recommend getting a PCB to mount these to and leave the leading and end resistor leads long so it is easier to attach a jumper lead between the key code and the VATS wiring.

Note: Plus sign (+) means to connect in parallel (both ends of both resistors or more soldered together), and comma (,) means to connect in series, one end of one resistor leading into another. Double check these with a DMM before you begin. Design spec is in the parentheses.

1: (402) 100, 100, 100, 100 (best way)
2: (523) 330, 100, 100
3: (681) 680
4: (887) 10K+1K (yes, these are in parallel)
5: (1130) 1K, 100
6: (1470) 1.5K (make double sure this is less than 1549 ohms because of tolerance)
7: (1870) 1.5K, 330
8: (2370) 2.2K, 100
9: (3010) 2.2k, 680, 100
10: (3740) 1.5K, 1.5K, 680
11: (4750) 4.7K
12: (6040) 5.6K, 330
13: (7500) 5.6K, 1.5K, 330, 100
14: (9530) 4.7K, 4.7K
15: (11.8K) 10K, 1K, 470

Make sure you have enough light to properly read the color bands. If you need help, LMK. All of your resistors should have a gold band at the BOTTOM, indicating 5% tolerance (plus or minus 5% of rated value). Hopefully you will have enough of the 100 ohm resistors...

__________________
Dan V.

Project is on hold...
The H1L-2 Raven:
1987 Pontiac Firebird, T-top
Bone Stock Except for the Following:
1991 VIN T engine, harness and ECM. Yes, I have VATS! ('730 harness is out for inspections due to problems, running on stock '302 system for now )
1984 Base Taillights
Overhead console from an 86 Berlinetta
90-92 Z/28 rear deck spoiler with HMSL delete
Eclipse CD-5435 MP3/WMA Headunit, 50Wx4 with iPC-106 iPod controller
Sony 4x6" 120W Front Speakers
Clarion 220W 3-way 6x9 Rear Speakers
Distinct (Crossfire) DVC 12" subs with Distinct 700W amp in prefab 82-92 F-body hatch box, 130+ dB (when working right)
Factory 700R4 replaced with 85 T-5 5-Speed manual trans, .76:1 OD.
Engine: 3.1L LH0 with off-the shelf air intake and a Cherry Bomb 2.25" Muffler.

89rs1

hey mav, thanks alot for your help man, but im just gonna part it out, i gotta another project car i rather pore money into, so if you or anyone else needs parts lmk. i have threads in the for sale sections here on the forums so just let me know guys