V6Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.
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I got the 2 upper plenums off, & took off the drivers side valvve cover. The injectors were covered in crap, even on the tips, and the valve train, YUCK. rust on pushrods, rust on springs, rust on rockers, rust everywhere. if the rest of the engine is the same when i pull the other head & drop the oil pan, i might have to seriously think of a different engine. That will mean the turbo will be put on hold, or even sold...depending on fundage. DAMN.
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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
Blown Head Gasket.
turbo has arrived,
working on getting some 3.4 heads.
hopefully I wont have to. ( but if I do, turbo city quoted a rebuild kit for $125 if need be) There is a salvage yard around here that wants $150 for a set of 3.4 heads, will see how much for the whole engine ( just in case ).
How long has the motor set?Or has it?Was there any oil at all in the valve train area?I can't see how that would rust with oil splashing everywhere.
If it has rusted and there is very little oil in that area,you may be looking at an oil pump problem or some clogged oil passages.
------------------ The next time you think your perfect,try walking on water!
I talked to the guy i bought it from, he said that when they discovered the water in the oil, they stopped driving it. apparently it has been garaged for about 2 yrs. not good for seals, but not weathered either. before I put it in my garage I drained the oil pan, grey sludge (filled up my 10 qt drain pan) put in new oil & additive, added battery & rotated engine. would not start ( but did rotate & all gauges/lights/wipers work) Also, on th einside of the valve cover was some disgusting whitish goop, probably the $hit that was sittin in the engine & finally got circulated to the head.
[This message has been edited by Project: 85 2.8 bird (edited October 22, 2001).]
cheeper now no, cheeper long run yes. Most junk yards will screw the **** outa you. It may run a week then poof. Oh well sorry heres another for ###. Also you don't know what its been through. I'd spend the extra buckos and have it rebuilt. I could have had my 2.8 rebuilt for 600 (Me using original intake and fuel ****). Which is a much better deal if you think of it. But then again if you have an extra set of wheels I'd turn it into a project car and buy this and that and send the block and heads into a shop to have cleaned and that good stuff then shove a crane cam in and well u know the rest ;-)
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1987 Chevrolet Camaro
2.8 Ltr HO Cut air boxes K&N Filters Gutted Cat (Did I say gutted opps don't tell the officer)
Duel catback Exhaust With Flowmaster series 80 dual 5"X24" MONSTER Echos
97 Firebird 16X8" Rims
The rebuild kit for a 2.8 will cost ya close to what they are asking for a 3.4
Believe it or not I got a deal on a complete rebuild kit..$380,thats for everything except the crank and rods.
------------------ The next time you think your perfect,try walking on water!
hey project why bother staying with that puny 2.8 and go up to a 3.1 buy my 3.1 for a measly $100.00, im including everything on the motor and harness, u can look at the motor if ud like its in an engine stand, and i garantee u it will last a whole lot longer than that 2.8
ok, got th e pass side valve cover off last night, not as bad as the drivers side. mostly surface rust, comes right off. distibutor was a beotch. pickup coil shedding that nice orange stuff around the windings. as for the lower manifold, that fargin bastage, had to break the pipe by the alt ( rusted) & use pry bar to get the thing out (f*kr took about a hour, garage door closed so I wouldn't freeze my arse of, going back & forth , side to side.) didn't have this problem when i took apart my poncho 400, but then it was out of the car.
roller valley has some more surface rust, and some coked -up oil, the stuff that usually solidifies & blocks passages.
should have the heads off next week.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird: ok, got th e pass side valve cover off last night, not as bad as the drivers side. mostly surface rust, comes right off. distibutor was a beotch. pickup coil shedding that nice orange stuff around the windings. as for the lower manifold, that fargin bastage, had to break the pipe by the alt ( rusted) & use pry bar to get the thing out (f*kr took about a hour, garage door closed so I wouldn't freeze my arse of, going back & forth , side to side.) didn't have this problem when i took apart my poncho 400, but then it was out of the car.
roller valley has some more surface rust, and some coked -up oil, the stuff that usually solidifies & blocks passages.
should have the heads off next week.</font>
You know a good long thin flat pointed pry bar does wonders to "POP" things out. Line up the point to the break and a good wack and pop. Even a good scraper can work.