project89

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a bad chip fast , just kkeep an eye on it, and replace the plugs if they were dripping with fuel

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I honestly think my ecm is flaky

Just from the ittermittin connection problems and now the over fueling problem.

On a side note its hard to not turn and NOT wana go sideways. This posi is going to cost me too much rubber...lol

Saar

with the engine running, tap(smack, really) on the ECM case, see if it causes it to change how it's running.

that will usually show a flaky ECM.

project89

iTrader: (1)

if the ecm is flaking out , it could have been the cause of the broken piston in the original engine

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

No issues today. Drove it 30 miles arround town and the country. Suxs having no heater. I slapped the ecm and didnt see any difference.

I had a nice logg to show but when i went to save it it canceled the logg because my zip drive was full!!! Sad face. But i also went with the 1.15 multiplier on the palses per sec and the speed is much better now. Helps the TCC also relize what is real.

I reduced .5 timing also today so now im running about 19 at a solid 10.5psi. Id rather be shorting myself for now till i get it dialed in perfect. 11.5 afr for the most part on the boosted times. I also still need to varifly that the timing is what it is at higher rpms.

I did notice its easier to drive arround town with the gears though when its not boosting up. I should have gotten 3.73's many many years ago.

I will add one thing. This car for some reason sux when its cold out for idleing. But after a few minuets of town driving and the cars warmed up well it idles perfect. A tad rich but with $59 it always has been to be smooth.

34blazer

how is the idle poor at idle?

project89

iTrader: (1)

thats why i always say the single best mod beside turbo/nitrous for these cars is a rear gear swap

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Joe its just a idles a little rough when i first start up the car and its so cold out. Its about 25 degrees out today. It stumbles a little bit. I even can make the car stall when I turn the fan on when its only been running a few minuets. Once its warmed up and heat sinked it idles much more smooth if that makes sence. Lopy idle a little bit also. Mabey its because the exhaust is so loud but I can hear every little bit of lope it has now.

On a side note, Dave, at 15mph when I stomped it... it still lit them up and went sideways. I gotta get my GF to video tape some of this stuff. The turbo lag is almost non existant, which still astonds me compared to last years set up. And from now on a gear set is what im going to reccomend also. Makes it a much easier car to drive.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Also try burning a blank bin file and using it in a car..... Thats what happend yesterday im almost 99.9% certain.

My flash drive I save everything on was full(I just noticed that today). I modded a Bin file and saved it as a different one as I always do. So I burnt a blank chip and put it in the car. Then started it. Now we all know limp home mode is pointless for my car, so thats why it was flooding out the car.

Why doesnt tunerpro tell you the file didnt save to its full content has me irritated.

15lbs Vs 48Lbs injectors in limp home mode=about 300% too much fuel at idle...lmao

The only thing is, is why did i connect to the ecm with the laptop as I was almost sure that I couldnt in limp home mode in the past.

Gumby

I know with cell phone upgrades and such once the file is first made and tested, they do a check sum test on it, it then spits out some long code so that anyone else who downloads it, can make sure the file is 100% right before use.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Off topic but can some one give me some tips for tuning a car with a NB o2 only? Heres a log of the GTP engine. Id message the log to someone but it doesnt let me on here. So i just linked it here.

This is a heated NB sensor so is 900+ a good number to shoot for. I will say one thing OBD2 and hp tuners is interesting to say the least.

Im not trying to race the car, thats what the camaro is for...lol I just want to make sure the last owner didnt crap out a tune destin to kill the car.

I will say one thing. This GTP might have a good tq area but my turboed camaro would dust this car exspecially in the top end of a track. The 80-100mph times arent even close...lmao

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Figured it would be a good day to check the timing and compression of the cylinders. Basic preventitive mantainance to a point.

The timing does hold fine up to 6500 rpms. I locked the timing @ 30* and it was right there from 3k rpms and up.

I tested all cylinders when I was done and the engine was nice and wamed up. I got:
#1 155, #2 147, #3 147, #4 154, #5 145, #6 150. PSI

IIRC some ppl actually go WOT with the throttle blades to take compression test. I did NOT but should have I???

I think those are in order of where it should be. I cant remember what the numbers where when I first checked this engine before I bought it but i assume they were somewhat close to that number.

I didnt really do a good leak down test but I let them sit for 5 minuets each before letting the pressure out. They dropped about 3-4psi a piece. Im not sure what a good leak down number is or the durration of the test.

Gumby

Of course you should WOT, an engine is an air pump, so you need it to be able to suck all the air it can during the test.

being warm helps too, which you did.

on leak down test all I know is you do one, then pour a little oil into the cylinder and do it again, if it still leaks the same, its your valves, if it doesn't leak, it was the rings...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok well the cars cold but can we assume that the psi would just go up with the blades open... Ill have to retest it again later.

I though a leak test was just to see how many psi is lost over a specific amount of time compared to the top cylinder pressure in a percentage

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Another note. When my GF was reving it up and holding the RPMS she said she could feel the car want to move just a tad. Now it didnt literly moce but this is a sign that the clutch plates are going IIRC.

I do have another 100k mile tranny that has never seen anything but stock abuse. I assume it is ok. If I was to toss a shift kit into the other trans would it hold up for 10psi of boost for the season? I cant commit to the TH350 swap till next year because of $$$$, and wanting to do it right.

I will add that ive noticed it doing that before also. As far back as last summer. It was never moving the car but you could feel it want to. I also did NOT have a trans cooler on this tranny till this winter. So 2k miles of 10-15psi jolts in the summer with no tranny cooler probly speed up the process.

Gumby

never like 700Rs, they work or they don't, and the don't work most often as every summer the boards fill up with 700R funky problems, while TH350-400 last

project89

iTrader: (1)

put a shift kit in it and run it if the trans dies swap in the other trans and swap the shift kit over

my car will actually drive in nuetral that trans is still in the car

project89

iTrader: (1)

btw lets see a new video now that u got the rear swapped

Gumby

Yea you gotta have a nice firm shift kit, if you don't feel weightless for a sec when it shifts [ the car lurches out from under you] you losing power to the ground

a good kit is easily controled with your foot on how hard and when.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Im guessing i would have to take the trans out to add in a shift kit. To be honest ive never attempted to put one in before.

Gumby

no you just drop the pan, can be done in the drive way.

only slight skilled knowledge needed not to lose or forget how it came apart.

Saar

lots of pictures help too.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

You done this before a few times??? You sure dont live too far away from me.

project89

iTrader: (1)

its very simple man , just take ur time and pay attention , the hardest part is getting the 2 check ***** back in, and the trick to it is put white grease were the checkballs go . the grease holds the ***** in place so u can get the vlave body back in place

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

All right. Ill get her done. Im gonna make the hit on a trans go 700-2-3 kit. Manily because its 75 bucks and from what dana told me its the best one really for what im trying to do. B+M is cheeper but ive heard bad and good things from them.

With these kits it makes the trans have constant line pressure right? So i can short shift it if i wanted to? Not that i really want to. But will I retain the automatic shifting then at all?? Or is it all manual with the kit im looking at getting.

project89

iTrader: (1)

no these do not have constant presure , ur thinking of the constant presure vlave body.

ask dana what the 700 2-3 kit comes with
u want the mega boost valve , the low reverse valve , the accumulator spring kits.+ the valve body mods

im going to look the kit up now and see exactly what it is


while most ppl dog the b@m kit ive used them , the biggest thing wrong with the b@m kit is that it completly blocks off the accumulator making for harsh 1-2 2-3 shifts
the job of the acumulator is to assorb some of the shock from the shift




its been a while but iirc the b@m kit comes with the boost vlaves and everything else

edit get the 700 2-3 but ask dana if it comes with the boost valves

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok.

But I was pretty sure there was some sort of manual control with that kit. Mainly holding a gear at any rpms... got me thinking now.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i almost forgot dont forget to pick up a case of trans fluid forget exactly how much u will need but with the converter already full it should be about 5-8 quarts of fluid to refill the trans. and do not put any of that trik shift or racing crap in it

project89

iTrader: (1)

both kits have manual control when in 1st 2nd 3rd , in od they are both fully automatic

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok dave. on the trans fluid. IIRC 12 qts is the total capasity of the trans.

project89

iTrader: (1)

also do urself a favor pick up a 1/2 inch bolt or 3/4 inch nut and bolt , and drill a hole in the side of the pan once its off , then weld the nut to the outside of the pan.

then u have an instant drain plug

also be very aware with the stock shifter manually shifting will suck with the shift kit .

in my old iroc with the shiftkit and stock shifter i would screw up alot and go from 1st to third alot on the track.

with the shiftkit if u accidently move the shifter from 1st to third it will shift 1-3.

if u get in the car and put the shifter in first u will see how lil movement it takes to go from 1st to 3rd if u grab the shifter by the ****

what i did was layed my hand on the console with the base of the shifter between my thumb and finger then the slightest lil push would move it into second gear without going into 3rd

Gumby

They sel drain plug kits for like $5 that you just drill and bolt on.

but no I haven't done a shift kit before but sure I could help you mess it up

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Went out to tinker with the car the last few days. All I want is for the car to idle right at 14.7 or so AFR in park and not surge every 10 seconds. SO today I messed with the throttle blade position as it was closed so far that the IAC couldnt do its work. That helped the idle smooth out to 15afr with no surging every 10 seconds or so. But no in drive it is wild and not even close to being smooth.

I noticed that it was not a afr vs idle thing once i locked the timing and the car ran at 16 afr for a weee bit and ran the same as if it was 12.0. Remember I was always having issues with this car surgeing and hunting with a leaner mixture. Well thats not the case after all.

The thing that pisssses me off is why is it so much worse now then on the last engine. I use to have issues like this before but it was always worse when the car was heat sunk on a hot day. If it wasent hot out and such it never had issues of this magnitude.

The vaccum is where it should be running at 42-44kpa.

The best way to explain is it will be running just fine then youll see the timing trying to correct the problem idle error, then it goes rediculusly lean, then it stumbles, vac goes down, then its fine, afr is good, vac is good, IAC position is good. Then after 10-15 seconds it does it again. The REAL question i see is I see the injector palse go down too. Which is why I think its so lean and stumbles. I believe its not the timing but something controling the injector palse.

If I jack the idle to 1100 rpms its not bad at all, but I have it at 900 currently and its bad.

Sometimes tuning drives me nuts. 2 hrs of work and its litlery worse so all those tunes did nothing.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i just dont understand why u have such idle issues.if anything i should be the one with idle issues as i delete the iac on all my cars and set idle with throttle blade opening , and tune my warmup enrichments to suit.

the only downside is i sometimes need to retune the warmup when going from summer to winter or the other way around but it takes me all of 5-10 minutes


once its tuned i never have any idle issues, my v6 car was the first one i did this on and that thing wil idle dead on no matter what

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Which code are you running?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Still $59 rob.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Did you check to see if the original patcher of that code disabled AIR, as that is the only other thing that will add fuel without showing a code...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Its not adding fuel its taking it out. The pulse width falls which i believe is causing the stumble. I cant find anything in there related to the AIR system. Ill keep looking.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

My year in review? Little bit faster with the 3.4 but still slow. Lol.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

what is this??

Initialize ISWWAC Option

ERVR EGR Calculation Option

MaxLean AFR... which is set on mine for 13.5 afr?? Thats weird. Its scaler KMAXLEAN

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You don't understand what I meant by that, the AIR pump will pump air into the exhaust manifolds every few seconds or so, which is emissions related of course, and the ECM will pull fuel during that process because it is essentially "false" air that wasn't in the combustion chamber, albeit the O2 sensor is still reading it as air. When we pull the smog pump, this will cause a slightly lean condition every few seconds until the AIR is disabled. Even though you are running $59, it is being read through your '730 ECM w/G1 adapter...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Oh ok I understand. I just can find the damm thing though. Only emissions i see is the EGR enable.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

... you need to add a constant in TunerPro to disable AIR...

Saar

assuming that's setup the same way it is on the MPFI 60V6 masks, then that's actually part of GM's method of getting around early emissions/MPG stuff from the EPA.

if so, there's another constant that only allows that to be checked when startup coolant temps are within/outside of a specific range. the range coincides with the startup coolant temp of the EPA's city MPG test from back then.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Look for Min. Coolant Temp To Enable Air Pump, if you find it, raise the temperature to its' max setting...

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

There is no AIR or air pump scalar or table on this $59 mask.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I am almost positive that it is hard written in the code in which you would need to set the Tuner definitions to the proper addresses, which is why I said above that you need to create a constant in TunerPro to disable AIR. BobR would know for sure though, so hopefully he will chime in soon...

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

The Syclone, typhoon, Turbo Sunbird, the Quad 4 (that used $58), did not use A.I.R. Pumps.

project89

iTrader: (1)

six can he disable the iac all together? maybe just as a test to see if it stops the surging idle.

i know with the ms system its fairly easy get the engine warm and idling right then set the iac to disabled wich will fully close it.from there we set idle speed by adjusting the tb blade , once thats done we just let the engine get cold and then adjust the warmup bins from a cold start.

can he do that with the 59$ just to see if it helps?

34blazer

it can probably be done simply by setting the minimum air, and leave the IAC unplugged.

Mark, when the surging gets out of hand, is the IAC moving? also, im assuming you are using OL for idle? when you datalog, the cells that go lean you could try to fatten them up? I have a lumpy cam and AFR's at idle are mid 16's, on cold nights they will get into the upper 17's and idle is rock solid. if the IAC is bouncing around it could be as simple as adding a few more degrees to the idle spark error tables.