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| scooter500's 1987 Z28 | |||
| Today: good daily driver & gets ~15 mpg starting the ccc. experimented after reading post by five7kid on starting a ccc & came up with a starting routine that's workin better for me. no matter if the car is cold or hot seems that I get faster starts by first turning the key to let the o2 sensor heat up a bit, maybe 10-15 seconds; before the m/c solinoid quits ticking lightly press the gas pedel maybe 1/2 inch, just enough to let choke/fast idle cam reset; then turn the key. stuff to do: #1 replace a/c heater vacuum control. #2 replace burnt connectors/relay near battery #3 check out rest of tree hugger system & sensors & the neverending vacuum lines & try hard vacuum line #4 fine tune carb (set idle mixture screws, etc). Someday: #1 A/c compressor, orafice, dryer. #2 An exhaust upgrade that still meets emmissions but which one? #3 Then from Damon: Something like a Comp Cams XE256 might be a good choice if you're going to still be running a stock stall converter behind a 305. It's not a big cam as performance cams go, but it's huge compared to the stock LG4 stick (the "peanut" cam). 2008: heater control valve, Summit 195 thermostat, 13077 heated O2 sensor, Robert Shaw Stage 1 w/p, charcoal canister vacuum lines & filter, 2007: biggest favor ever done to the car: installed $9 fan control switch by Wells SW505 with great temp range of 213-229F, V-belts, vacuum lines, pwr steering line, reroued radiator hoses away from carb, radiator cap, rebuilt carb, AC Delco Rapid Fire #2 sparks, rerouted emmisions stuff away from carb, starter, window moter driver side, & tried different fan control switches but for most of the year the car ran too cold 2006: heater hoses, flush radiator, rubber brake lines, new calipers, new disks, new rotors, new brakes springs/star parts, transmission shift cable, coil, wires, cap n rotor, 4 link bolts, transmission fluid n filter, rear oil, & tried different fan control switches but the car still ran too hot |
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