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Fronts are 18x8...255/45/18.
They do seem a bit inadequate now when paired with the 18x11's...hehe.
Tommy
From what I can tell they look like a great combo. You wouldn't really want huge tires up front would you? (I mean, 18x8s are huge, but in comparison to 18x11 rears, I'd say that's on par.)
I've got 255/60/15 rears and 235/60/15 fronts, and the ratio you have reminds me of mine if it were supersized lol.
Same here and I got my ZR1;s to fit flush with the lip. I still need to roll the lip, but thats it. They "tuck" just the way I like and when people see the 315s on the tire and see that they don't stick out, they really seem to like all the meat under the rear. Grip is excellent off the line too!
are you lowered at all?im pretty slammed so rilling the fender lips were a must also a adjustable panhard bar to center the rear too.when i first put on my zr1's with the 315's i just sit and look at the back of my car...i love the fat meats back there.now i have zo6's with 295's and to me its a huge difference in meatiness.the 315's look way better.
No I am stock ride height. I have adj. everything so it was easy to center. I have yet to roll my lip but am doing so soon. Car hits the lip now and then but no big deal. Once they are rolled it will all be squared away.
I am running a 275 / 40 / 18 on a 10.5 wide rear wheel. no fender mods required. Mine are 26.7 tall your should be around 26.1. yours should be just under 1 inch wider. I think with the right backspacing or spacer you shouldn't have to do that much to make them fit.
damn dennis,i feel i know you know lolol.i looked through evry pic and read everything you put out there.loads of pics are great.too bad i didnt know you earlier n lived near you.i would have helped you out on your car evryday.btw what did you do for the rear brakes?since the rears are way wide like mine the stock emergency brake wont fit.what did you do?and im thinkin to do the same as you for the front brakes.oh and btw i used 2 1/4 front and 1 1/2 rear adapters insted of 2" like most try. ohhhh and sweeet *** ride.
I am using my stock rear brakes and the E-brake fits fine. The calipers are mostly inside the rim. But they fit fine. No mods at all. Just bolted on. I have stokc 91 disks on the rear.
Not sure if that helps and thanks for checking out he site and thanks for the compliments too!
on mine,where the cable goes through the bracket is ok but the cable itself is/was rubbing till i disconnected itcuz it was gonna rub bad.do you have pics you can take for me?
My cable rubs my DS a little. But thats it. Are you talking about the cable rubbing the rim? I assume so.
I can take all the pics you want. i am getting a new computer this weekend so it might have to wait till then. There might be a pic of 2 on my site that has insight in the mean time.
Hi Guys,,
Finally, here are the pictures of the modified wheel wells.
The pictures below are of the Driver side wheel well.
As you can see, the areas outlined with red were modified.
The lower portion of the wheel well was actually cut out and re-welded to allow more room for the tire.
As well, the fender lips were rolled out a bit to allow more room.
I have no doubts that I can now easily fit 315's there. The current 295's have alot of room to move in there!
so you have not interference with the bump stops huh? If i can find a guy around here to widen my wheels, i will get to see what kind of hacking i get to do. looks good
im liking the 2pc rotors, they look like my trucks brakes, what are they? baer?
Looks like what I did. I just need to roll the rear lip. How did you do it? Did you have a body shop do it? I need to do it to mine. My Nitto Drs are rubbing a little when I hit big bumps. Thx
Beast- though the sentiment makes sense, the details you gave are not consistent. First, filler metals in most welding _are_ stronger then the base, like you said, but not usually in aluminum, where the filler and sometimes the HAZ can be as much as half the strength of the base. Usually that is made up for by forming a weld bead that is larger/thicker than the base (which from the pictures here does not appear to be what they did), or by re heat treating the part afterwards (I doubt that’s what they did either, since I can’t imagine how they did it without screwing up the finish or warping the finished wheel. Because of that, in my eyes that wheel would be suspect.
Wrought aluminum? I’m assuming you mean a forging?
WRT to _never_ modifying stock wheels… well,
- WRT to repairs, there are sections of most wheels that are excessively thick and many times as strong as they need to be to start with that can be repaired
- not all factory wheels are cast
- most companies widening rims do not use pieces of cast rim to widen the rim, but they cut it near the “hub,” using it as a cast center piece and the section added on is an aftermarket piece which is significantly stronger than a casting would be.
In other words, it can be done right, safely, but from what I saw in the pics I kind of wonder.
WRT fitting these things in there, I think people are making a bigger deal of it then it is.
I have 295/35-18’s on the back of my project car on some 18x10.5” ZO6 rims, using a 58mm backspacing and 2” spacers, with the stock 1/8” spacers (cast iron drum brakes) installed and uninstalled I was able to drive around with no rubbing with _no_ mods to the wheel wells.
Since it was clear that with the suspension drooped it would hit the bump stops, I eventually want to tuck them in another ¼” and also intend to run much larger/taller drag tires on the car, I did take the plasma cutter to the bump stops/supports and rolled the fender lips (used an eastwood type roller… piece of cake but don’t let anyone tell you you can do it without damaging the paint, half of the paint flaked off the lips when I did it, but I did it now before the car was painted). Since I intend to tuck the big drag tires like the stockers, I know that I will have to hammer the inner fender near the front, inside, but I don’t believe that I’ve ever seen any size tire come close to contacting that lip that runs around the inside in the middle where you guys are doing most of your hammering.
WOW, I can't believe I have read the whole thread to realise at the end it's over 4 year old, great read thou..... I too would like to know where you get 18" OEM IROC rims, all I see on the net are the chrome jobs, I'd like the machined look with gold.
(Just logged in to see my avatar .. 86 IROC .. has been swapped with the post above)
Changed Avatar to the new IROC I'm going to pick up.
Last edited by AussieIROC66; 01-13-2012 at 09:07 PM.
Reason: Avatar now fixed.
Now if some company would step up, and buld 17" &18" GTA crosslace wheels! The make the 2nd gen snowflakes, but they aren't cheap, or else I'd get a set of those.
Hi Guys,
I am not sure what the backspacing is it at this moment. I want guesstimate atleast 7". The wheel shop just basically added 3" of material to the rear of the rim. Unfortuanetly, the rims will not fit the car now. I need to do some major 'surgery' to the inside fenders!
That last picture is a optical illusion. Those are both the rear wheels, even though one looks smaller.
I am running 18x8 255/45/18 on the fronts, and 295/40/18's on the rear.
Tommy
4th gen rear would give you what you need but a 2 inch spacer and a bfh might work too
What kind of tires are those
I will be doing the same as you I just picked up a set of 2012 Corvette GS wheels that are 18x9.5 fronts and 19x12 rears
WOW, I can't believe I have read the whole thread to realise at the end it's over 4 year old, great read thou..... I too would like to know where you get 18" OEM IROC rims, all I see on the net are the chrome jobs, I'd like the machined look with gold.
(Just logged in to see my avatar .. 86 IROC .. has been swapped with the post above)
Changed Avatar to the new IROC I'm going to pick up.
Blast from the past! Still can't believe no one makes these wheels any wider, and no polish option.