I just put 1/4in wheel spacers on the back wheels of my 86 Iroc-Z. I keep hearing that this is dangerous because the studs can break off. there was already a piece on the drums that seemed like an extremely small spacer, but it was really thin, maybe like a 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch. I think it was so the steel drums and aluminum wheels wouldn't react. Are the studs on a third gen strong enough to use 1/4 in spacers? I plan on taking some sharp turns and stuff. Should i not use them?

Its common, you are fine.

In actuallity, some cars came from the fatory with rear spacers so the IROC rims had clearance over the drum brakes.Just do not start going alot larger than 1/4" (like 3/8-1/2") because 1) you will be running out of lugnut thread engagement, and 2) you are starting to leverage the studs and if you ALSO start combining that with better gripping aftermarket tires and harder traction loads then you start risking a problem. The better your cornerng forces, the greater the concern. Most cars never see any kind of traction significant of risk. Not to sound like a hypocrate though, My car has seen a documented 1.07 g's and I have upgraded to 1/2" ARP racing studs for this very reason.

My studs are 2 1/2' " long and I also run custom made hubcentric wheel spacers (not adapters, I run spacers) that are 11/16" thick. So getting to extremes can matter, but most general cases they are easily adequate to SAFELY run 1/4" spacers. I ran them on my car very minorly modified for years till I radically built it.

THese cars factory run from high .70's to high .80 range in g's based on options. Modified regularly see about .88- about .94 range. Few ever get above that. unless drastic measures are taken and the car's suspension is altered with welded in adjustment provisions and setup properly. getting in the .9 range of g's is getting pretty good forces but the stock lugs would be good with 1/4" spacer still in that range as long as they are maintained in fairly new condition (If you are constantly pulling your wheels off and then having to retorque them- change you lugs anyways, you are stressing them anyways and they are fatigued) Pulling lugs once or twice a year? No problem. ANy more than that, change them even woithout running spacers.

Hope this info gives you a better general guideline- But remember, Lugs and studs and not rediculaously expensive, I would recommend changing them regardless for peice of mind if you have no idea the history of the car and are building it to handle above normal conditions.

Several years ago in japan I read an issue of CarCraft (aka CamaroCraft) where they tested different wheel/tire and suspention combos for road holding ability. They drove around a track at 40mph untill the car started to lose traction.
In some of the tests they changed out all kinds of part and installed new stuff like strut braces, control arms, wheels, different anti sway bars, wonder bars and so on. A lot of time and money was spent on their part.
The most intresting test was when they stuck low profile 17'' wheels on all most stock test thirdgens. By changing wheels alone they found the greatest improvment.

i would run longer wheel studs anytime a spacer is utilized. Thread engagement is key here. You can buy 2.5" studs easily enough or if you ever plan to run weld rims you can buy 3.25" studs.

How hard is it to replace the studs? (disks/drums setup here).

ok so i think im ok with the 1/4in. thanks.