I have been searching the web, and TGO, for pics of our sweet rides with different size wheels, and tires, and suspension setups, etc... and i figured it would be helpful, and cool, to have a bunch of different third gen's all collected together with different setups. so hopefully everyone will play along and i will start. so here's mine, stock 16" wheels and offsets, with 225/55ZR16 front and 255/50ZR16 rear tires, lowered using drop zone springs. hope you like. now post yours

wheels are SLPs 17x8" 0 offeset front and back, SLPs wrapped in 245/45/r17 nitto 555 rubber. in the pic it had eibach sportlines (now is gona have cutt moogs) also has RAM air II fiberglass hood with working scoops. aluminum SSBC twin piston front calipers, with cross drilled/slotted rotors. braided brake lines.rear is stock 4wheel disk, new calipers painted, and ceramic pads all the way round. all new moog tierods etc. rear has all tubular suspension. UMI adjustable PHB with spherical end. UMI LCARBS, hand made tubular LCA with poly. custom subframes, true dual exhaust etc.

how do u post pics that large like that in the acutal post?

87 Iroc-z with Spohn SFC (not visible). rear LCA, Panhard bar, energy sup. end links, Bilstien shocks and 11.655 pbr brakes. Wheels and tires ar 17x8.5 & 245/45/17.

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hey IROCKET4U, did you get those chrome wheel well lines from eBay? i see them all the time... was wantin to get some and install them, after lookin at your car i DEFF wanna get some now

No, they were on the car when I bought it. Not sure if Im going to keep them. Everyone that sees them tells me to take them off.

wrenchead 84

i love how that car sits
I got the same springs waiting to be installed on my 89rs, gotta get some tokico shocks and struts first.

can you give me a review, like how does the car handle any issues during or after installation

thanks man

Here's some pics of my Z, 18" ZO6's and Eibach pro kit springs.

heres some pics when i had 17x8 hyper black Zr1 wheels on there with 245/45/17. these wheels looked a lot narrower then what i have now which is stock rims with 235/55/16. a lot cheaper to buy tires from a junk yard and burn them off.

check my cardomain,jimmy

...the exotic suspension

91 RS with stock 16x8s and ZR1 17x9s. Mods in signature.

All new suspension with the energy bushings, earls braided lines ect.

it actally handles really good. i still need to replace the lower ball joints, strut mounts, and sway bar link kits, then do the final alignment. but the mods are already noticeable, espescially for the rear.

check my cardomain ive got pics of all my suspension goodies and weld prostars. www.cardomain.com/ride/2197664

here is my setup and website

http://www.fquick.com/nevasuma

What shocks you running on it?

89' IROCZ Stock suspension minus spohn T56 swap crossmember and adjustable torque arm. Vette C5 wagon wheels.

if you only cut your springs to drop it an inch do you gotta change your strut and strut tower?? prolly been discussed before but i figure since im here i could use you guys as help hopefully. thanks.

No but you will need an adjustable panhard rod, torque arm, and LCA relocation brackets.

Yes! At least new struts. Changing the ride height and spring rate by cutting stock springs will wear on stock (or OER) struts and shocks just like aftermarket lowering springs. You can run cut springs without new struts designed for lowering, but you won't be getting the most out your ride or handling.

good ol' monroe sensa trac. napa baby. dont get me started on that topic. i went to three autozones and all of their stock of gabrial ultra were dead. lets justy say i'll never shop at AZ in this town again. no offenze to any AZ team members on TGO i hope. just the ones in bako are horrible in service and general automotive knowledge.

Ever thought about upgrading to something a little more performance oriented? I had Monroes on my car for a while with the ProKit at first. They were killed in about 6 months...

[quote=91_5.7_TPI;4084917]Ever thought about upgrading to something a little more performance oriented? I had Monroes on my car for a while with the ProKit at first. They were killed in about 6 months...[/quote

yes, but i did not have the cash at the time i installed the other stuff, plus i had a autozone gift card so i used it to get the gabriels which turned out to be isht and blah blah blah, plus i havent decided which to get...

yeah napa only makes parts for our cars, cant trust autozone

i just got 18" iroc rims and im prob going to do the drop zone springs. any body have pics with the drop zone springs with 18's? i dont kno what tires i should run. id like to run 275's in the rear and 245's in the front. i just dont know what will fit side wall. any clue guys?

i have 18" irocs with 2" drop spindles in the front. I did not drop the rear yet. I am running 245/40/18 tires in front, 255/40/18 in the rear. I have a little issue with the front rubbing but it might have to do with the spohn front a-arms I put in. Here is a link to my car http://www.fquick.com/nevasuma

18" rims will fit but its all about the RIMs backspacing/offset. ive read/seen 275 front and 315 back with not mods to the wheel wells. usually a taller/larger rim requires a thinner tire. i run 245/45/r17s on mine. bit i would think u would need about a 40 on ur sidewalls.

in my area i love the napa and advance. at my advance the manager is a gm guy so i always go to him. (and i like to go stare at his vette ) and if they dont have it, THEN i go to napa.

Just got wheels for right now C5 18s front 19s rear... flipping these for something smaller so I can hook and go straight line. Too much of a "donk" for my liking

I think those are C6s. And for 18/19s, they don't look too bad surprisingly (I usually don't like many wheels larger than 17s on 3rd gens). Might be the angle of the shots.

carzandgirlz247-it does look pretty bad. good idea, but it just doesn't work. the tires are too tall and give the car a jacked up look. i really like the rims, but the overall height just looks bad. not too much you can do to fix that, it would look wrong if it was lowered or if you cut down on sidewall profile much.

91_5.7_tpi-please explain why gabriel ultras are bad. I know we went over it earlier, but not really in-depth.

all-check sig for pics

im lovin those rims

needs to be a little lower. maybe two inches. hahaha

He can't. he is sweating it as it is now with those tires sticking out past the fenderwells. THat would cerrtainlydamage fenders and paint if he lowered it any more than it sits now. Nice looking rims, they just do not fit the car properly.

18x8 and 18x11 irocs with 245/45/18 and 295/40/18 tires.
Lowered on custom ordered Global West springs.

I don't know alot about the construction of the shocks/ struts, but the Gabriels and Monroes don't have the same vavling of the brands like Bilsteins and KONIs. They don't dampen the oscillations of the suspension or weight transfer as well and they aren't designed to work with lowering springs either. I can't give you technical details, but I think that Vetruck could do a better job of that. I do know that the differences between the Monroes I had and the KONIs I have now is night and day.

yea, i get that the cheaper brand wouldn't work as well as the better brands like blisten and koni. I'm not looking for all out performance and I don't want to lower my car. ground clearance is pretty low as is for my tastes. like you said, Vetruck, if you want to chime in, feel free. its better than what I had and it was what I could afford, know what I mean?

Well, there is alot of people on here that could probably explain just as well the shock valving- it basically comes down to quality.

A higher end unit valved generally a bit digressive (meaning it looses it force resistance as the rod plunges faster speeds) valving which takes a bit more machining and tolerances rather than a cheaply valved stiff 4x4 typoe shock. Monroes are just an average linear valved shock with average internal workings that can not withstand higher rate heat useage and will fade (just like over the counter brakes would fade, the shocks are machined and built to handle greter forces without fade and alsdo mainly not building too high of force with higher rod speeds making them overly harsh and deflective over bumps.) A good quality over-the-counter road race shock like a Koni or a Bilstein are worth their weight in gold over a cheaper valved shock when it comes to chassis control and tire contact patch control. They are firmer but more sensitive due to high quality of fluid and gas passages.

Thats really the best I can do in explination- just as always I STRONGlY PREACH- "spend all of your money first on good shocks and good tires. Then buy everything else as you can afford it."

Now when I speak "Digressive", Koni's are not a digressive shock, but over a Monroe they have lean more toiwards digressive qualities in high speed fuild and gas control while giving a minimal slop low road speed damper rate. Monros have no low speed quality and henthe build on a linear scale to high speed dampering they are just average. Koni's are considered a Linear shock, where as you can buy true digressive valved shocks that reall start off strong at low speed and bleed pressure relief to remain close to constant at the normally higher preassure high speed vavling. Digressive shocks have changed the racing world in the past decades. Its how alot of teams hve gone to these (what I think is crappy) coil bind setups- you can have em, I hate em. i still love digressive vavling though, I run both linear and digrssive vavled shocks on all 4 corners of my daily truck. 8 shocks total- one dsdigressive and one linear in each corner of it. It is a poormans way of running a 4-way shock inexpensively,but you need to know how to use shock valing to taylor what you desire in feel and rotation of the vehicle. This gets very complicated and alot of trial and error. I did some major fabrication on this truck abnd played with some expensive doule adjustables on the front til I got the vavling I desired- I then removed the double adjustables and bought fixed valved shocks inthe vavling I ended up with- lastly I then installed them on the rears- which changed the front wettings, but I already guessed and conpesated for the front cchange when coupled wit the correct rear settings. I errored a little low on the front settings knowing when I got the rears dampered properly they would not wedge transfer eight accross to the fornts anymore when controlled. Lkiek I said, it takes a ral knowhow -OR- alot opf money on trial and error.

here is a pick of my truck when I had it completely stipped and "made" my entirelky own front suspension and mount points.

mr iroc z, what are the lengths and spring ratio you ordered? that stance is perfect!!!!!

I ordered the springs with specific spring weight. Fronts I think are rated 800lbs and the rear 160. I cut the springs myself to come up with the perfect ride height. It took about a month to get the car to sit where I want it.
Also forgot to mention that I am running Koni Yellows all around.

well it looks great. what height did the springs start at, stock???

Ronal R15 Wheels
Toyo Proxes Front 245/40ZR17; Rear 275/40ZR17
Currie Ford 9"

When it warms up, I'll have new pictures of the Black and Red interior.

Mr. IROC Z where did you get those wheels? i really like those... its hard to find any reproduction iroc rims that arent chrome... how much did they cost?

Hey guys here is my setup. Ronal 17x9.5 R15's, BFG 275/40/17 on front and rear. lakewood adjustable panhard bar, titanium lower control arms, and a eibach pro-kit that gave it about 1 1/4" drop. Next up is all new sheet metal front to rear!

that looks great.
i love the combination of no spoiler and exhaust tips.
dont let anyone convince you to give it a spoiler...





wow.
i love that stance and color and, well, pretty much everything about it.
i think i am going to have to repaint mine like that. finally a color to give red a run for its money

Thanks red dragon. I was working on fitting up a fourth gen T/A wing but may not put it on due to all the compliments I have gotten with no wing!