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EDIT: Pics added at the end, showing the wheel well cuts.
Completely under the fenders, no spacers, 17" x 11" - 7" bs, on my stock 9-bolt.....Yes. 7" backspacing was pretty greedy of me, but worth it!
1. I used UMI Performance Rod Ended tubular LCAs, with the offset bushings, for the tires to clear the LCAs.
2. The bumpstops are completely cut out, as well as the outer layer of that big "bulge" above them.
3. I had to cut out some of the front inner lip, where the inner panels come together. And then BEAT THE CRAP out of the front section (inwards), to stop tire rub.
AND......Let's not forget the e-brake cables!
4. Passenger side was easy. Just unbolted the retaining loop to the rear subframe & rerouted the cable behind the swaybar end link. On the drivers side, I had to notch the caliper bracket for the e-brake (top & bottom) then bend the bracket inwards, to stop it from rubbing the inside of the wheel.
But they are on, do not rub & help some with traction. My 200,000 mile, 225hp (brand new) L98 can still light even the 315s up! Sure can feel this hook up. I wanna get a video of it launching. Judging by my small test, the tires don't lift, but the front end sure comes up!
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looks good stephen, they sit right about where i would like to see them. Good job, have you driven the car yet? see if they rub while turning at all
7" of BS, please, try fitting 8.5"
8.5" would most definately require a tub of some kind & a 4-link?. Not sure if just a mini tub would clear that!
My fronts are still the stock 5" bs. Never rubbed from day 1, with the 275s.
On the rear, with the offset LCAs for clearance & the solidness of the rod ends (PHB & LCAs) , the rears doesn't move side to side any.
The LCA rod ends (i suspect is the "culprit") makes for some definite clunking over road irregularities. Not looking forward to hitting rail road crossings at 60mph!
hehe... sweet. Looks great.
this makes me wanna try the 305/30R18s all around even more.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
sure it does, its actually what im running, with a minitub and some other custom doo-dads.
What tires are you using? Have any pics of the inner wheel wells?
Summitomo 315/35s & I have taken any pics yet, because I haven't welded it shut yet.
I wanted to test drive it first & check for any rubbing, before I bothered welding. It would suck to weld it, then find out I had to cut it up again & re-weld it all over.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91_5.7_TPI
hehe... sweet. Looks great.
this makes me wanna try the 305/30R18s all around even more.
305s would be easier & WAY easier, if you don't get greedy on the bs, like I did, to fit on stock style suspension & minimal sheetmetal work (which turned out to be not-so-quite minimal!
From what I looked at, the 305 tire selection is alot better on the 18s as well. The fun part would be getting the backspacing and stuff right on the front. A little less common knowledge and more to hit up there.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
From what I looked at, the 305 tire selection is alot better on the 18s as well. The fun part would be getting the backspacing and stuff right on the front. A little less common knowledge and more to hit up there.
The extra half inch in diameter isn't gonna make that much of a difference in the rear. And by pulling the wheel out even a half inch (less bs), would help.
From what I looked at, the 305 tire selection is alot better on the 18s as well. The fun part would be getting the backspacing and stuff right on the front. A little less common knowledge and more to hit up there.
305/18 is not a common size is it? i have only seen one or two tires with that size. 295's have shatloads
I know the difference in diameter wouldn't have a large effect on fitment, I was reffering to getting everything to clear up front for turning lock to lock.
Yeah, my bad. 315/30s- 12 tires, 305/30- 4 tires, 295/35- 21. My head wasn't in gear.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
I did a lot of "house cleaning" in my Photobucket & didn't realize this thread was gonna be affected.
Pics now fixed, in the original Post.
Awesome...you think if I put the ASA's or ADR's in the same position i'll be able to get them to fit? Do you have pictures of the beating/cutting you did??
Awesome...you think if I put the ASA's or ADR's in the same position i'll be able to get them to fit? Do you have pictures of the beating/cutting you did??
No pics yet. It still isn't welded shut yet. Really sucks trying to weld, laying on your side on the ground. Gonna take it to where I can borrow a lift & weld it then.
Awesome...you think if I put the ASA's or ADR's in the same position i'll be able to get them to fit? Do you have pictures of the beating/cutting you did??
Oh....Get the BS right & you can do anything. I just wish the centers were further back. I'd love to have a deeper dish. Deeper wheels, are the only thing that will get me to switch away from my Snypers.
You got any pics from the side, its making me think i should go with 315s
I didn't, but now I do, thanks to the wonderful age of digital cameras!
Side view is no different than with the 285s I had, other than maybe the height difference of new tires sidewalls vs worn out tires sidewalls. Looks no different to me, since the wheels sit exactly where they did before.
You know where the bumpstop is, above the axle? That has to be cut out. (below the red square)
The the red boxed area above that, has to come out. It is 2 layers & only the top layer is a bump. Just cut out the top layer.
Sorry, no pic for this step, but just weld in a new flat plate to bring it back to 2 layers, but flat.
I also had to trim where the back of the forward-most part of the tire rubbed the inner fender. The sledgehammer couldn't move it far enough, so I had to break out the cutting wheel, that I used on the bumpstop.
So it took an adjustable PHB.....Offset tubular LCAs.....And body cutting. All easy stuff really.
I was cutting, test fitting the wheel...cutting, test fitting, cutting, test fitting, cutting.........You get the picture. Now I know just to CUT. 1st side took all day......I did my 2nd side in 1 shot!
I haven't looked under my car in a while to see where everything is located and what not, but can't you just weld in the bumpstop on the other side of the "frame" section, or is it too close to the spring then? If it is, what about putting it directly below the "frame?" I'm just thinking out loud...
I haven't looked under my car in a while to see where everything is located and what not, but can't you just weld in the bumpstop on the other side of the "frame" section, or is it too close to the spring then? If it is, what about putting it directly below the "frame?" I'm just thinking out loud...
I suspect there wouldn't be room, but I dunno FOR SURE.
I have yet to have the axle hit the rear subframe any, but of course, I also don't go 4 wheeling or jumping curbs with it.
mo
My mirrors aren't broke..... 
Now I know just to CUT. 1st side took all day......I did my 2nd side in 1 shot! 
