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Well I finally got my car running and plan on driving it more now. Just put brand new SLP zr1 replicas on. But when driving down the road it seems like the front ends loose. I just put lower ball joints/ idler arm/ and I'm pretty sure the tie rod ends are ok, and had it aligned. But you really notice it when the roads not real smooth, seems like it just wants to walk all over the place. Any suggestions on what it could be besides tie rod ends? ALSO somebody school me on subframe connectors. Do I need them? Or would it be a waste of money? And which ones/what kind? Thanks in advance!!!!
every thirdgen desperately need SFCs, part of the chasis pf our cars is just a 1/6"-1/8" sheetmetal, and if you can imagine it twist and flexes like hell, they will make the car handle better, ride better, and stop inside squeaks please lower your car, its nice but sits 4x4 style,
you need new a-arm bushings and to adjust the slop out of your steering box
__________________ THE MODS Suspension: 18X9.5" hyper black c6 wheels with 265/40/18, 275/40/18 michelin PS2, AGR 12.7 to 1 steering box .225 valve, J&M strut mounts KONI Yellow sport/ Ground Control Weight Jacks#1,000/200, double adjustable lower control arms+ UMI LCA relocation brackets, UMI Panhard relocation "chassis side" with single adjustable UMI panhard, JEGS Panhard relocation "axle side". UMI SFC's. UMI tunnel mounted torque arm, 36/ 23 mm swaybars, Iroc wonderbar, Edelbrock 3 pt STB, Moog front end steering componets, Spohn bumpsteer kit. Intake: Ultimate T.B. + spacer, 14 X 3" open element 1.6 Comp Cams Roller rockers Exhaust: 1 5/8" Edelbrock shorty headers through 3" Flowmaster, carsound 3" converter.
Yeah it definatly wanders. BUT the tires are just 255's. And it did this with the stock wheels with 245's before also.
And what kind of sub frame connectors I was looking on the sticky were it talks about them and it I thought it said there were two different kinds is that right? If so which ones should I go with?
IMHO, I believe that SFCs would only INCREASE what you feel, because the chassis no longer having any room to flex & absorb, but rather...Transmit the road feel much sooner.
There are SFCs that run inwards towards the tranny tunnel & SFCs that run outwards, along the pinch rail. If you want the "best you can get", buy a set of both.
every thirdgen desperately need SFCs, part of the chasis pf our cars is just a 1/6"-1/8" sheetmetal, and if you can imagine it twist and flexes like hell, they will make the car handle better, ride better, and stop inside squeaks please lower your car, its nice but sits 4x4 style,
you need new a-arm bushings and to adjust the slop out of your steering box
What can I do to tell if the a arm bushings are bad or not? I hate to put new ones in if thats not whats wrong..
Just take a look at them. If they are all cracked up and ugly, they need replacing. If they are stock, I'd venture to say that they need replacing lol.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
subframe connectors are a must for your t top car, they will make a world of difference. As far as the shaking goes, jack up the front of your car and make sure all that new stuff is tight. Then grab the drag link(the bar that the tie rods, idler and pitman arms attach too, give it a shake and see if there is any play. If there is slop, start working your way around and replace as nessecary. Also a arm bushings need to be replaced if they are still stock.